Due to some delay close to Agra our train arrived 45 minutes late, which apparently had our local representative in a tizz, fearing that something might have happened to the train.
But all was well. We slept well and the family disembarked one station before Varanasi. I took the opportunity to consolidate my luggage and thought I would do some people watching on the way. We were lucky as our window was relatively clean and one could watch the world go by. However, just as I was about to sit down we pulled into a station and some gentleman told me that this was the last stop. And so it was, there was the guy holding up my name. People watching from the train would have to wait…
A railway porter carried my luggage on his head up and down the stairs as we weaved our way past the pilgrims out into the sweltering morning heat that is part and parcel of this region. On the way people were taking the opportunity to brush their teeth right there on the platform. I was so focused on not loosing my company representative that I did not have time to notice much else.
Our driver put the luggage in the trunk of the sedan car, modestly decorated by Indian standards, I paid the porter and off we went squeezing between two trucks to get out of the station parking. On this our company rep cheerfully remarked that the 8th wonder of the world is ‘indian traffic’. I tend to agree.
Varanasi is a melting pot of the entire India as this is a Hindu and Buddhist holy city and all Indians try to visit the site at least once in their lives. It is the dream of a Hindu to live close to Varansi and to die and be cremated on the banks of the Ganges at one of the two cremation sites. Having this honour will ‘wash away’ all your sins, clear your bad karma and ensure your place in heaven. Having said all this, this is a town with many elderly people paying penance for their sins by painfully navigating the steps on the Gnats for a spiritual cleanse in the holy water. Faith is a strong motivator.
What I saw on the way to the the hotel this city has a more rural feel than Agra and Delhi. Traffic was less intense – by Indian standards at least, but this is apparently just a ‘Sunday thing’. Not sure if this will be different tomorrow as we depart 5:30 for sunrise boatride on the river. Most companies “open shop” at around 10am, so this should be prior to rush hour.
The hotel is clean and modern and cosmopolitan. Quite different from the Heritage hotels we have been living in before. It has several restaurant options and a 24 hour coffee shop in the lobby, which doubles as breakfast venue. There are jewelry, curio and clothing shops in the lobby and a fully functioning “Wellness Centre”/Ayurvedic and beauty spa on the 2nd floor. It goes without saying that Wifi is purchasable by the 1/2 hour from the reception desk – no free wifi here 😛
The local rep assisted me with check-in and I enjoyed a late breakfast at the coffee shop before going to my room. Breakfast was very good with some dishes I have not encountered until now. A indian sweet that looks like a kind of deep-fried pretzel, orange in colour and dipped in a sweet – rose flavoured syrup. The description at the buffet only states “indian sweet”. If they have it again tomorrow I’ll ask for more info. The other was something that resembles a small round doughnut, made out of mashed potato with cumin seeds and then deep-fried – Medhu Vada the description said.
This was also the first hotel that had bacon on the breakfast menu – I did not have any, but I did notice the absence of this western breakfast staple on the indian menu.
They have these plates that keep the coffee, tea, milk hot and if you remove it from the plate to pour within a few seconds it speaks to you in a “mind the gap”-voice reminding you to return it to the plate. That would drive me insane. The egg booth – ‘Omlettes while you wait’ was close to my table and this used the same type of cooker. The chef and I later shared an exasperated giggle every time “gap-lady” complained. That man must have the patience of saint!
I could not resist a spot of tourist junk shopping at the curio store en route to my room. Purchased a pink handmade card with an elephant which I want to incorporate in my Holi display.
Did a bit of laundry before showering and making some tea. Then I caught up with some emails, sent some pictures to the family who does not have facebook accounts and slept a little. Before I knew it, it was time to go for the evening ceremony.
My guide was waiting for me in the lobby and after introductions we were off on our way. It feels really weird to have a personal guide. but nice as well, you can go places that will be hard to do with a group.
We walked the last around 800m to the river bank dodging cows and hawkers and holy men. He explained the symbolism behind the various flower garlands and it’s importance in the Hindu religion and the local economy – marigolds and roses on a string is big business in India. I of course had to like the little purple-pink flowers, which apparently have narcotic properties – all righty then.
We walked along several of the interconnected ghats (sets of steps into the river). Officially along the riverbank there are 82. Some are more important, popular as they are close to selected temples and the pilgrims have to pray in the temple after the holy dip – so…. location, location, location.
After floating my Ganga Aarti basket in the river we watched the ceremony with the crowd. It was a riot of light, fire, bells, incense and rose-petals with the priests closing the ritual by ceremonially cleaning the Mother Ganges with fluffy feather ‘brooms’.
We witnessed the end of the ceremony from the top steps to obtain a head-start on the crowds. Technically that was the plan… was it much of a head-start, Im not sure there were people everywhere and vendors of anything not bolted down were doing brisk business. Tourists eyed the spectacle from the relative ‘safety’ of bicycle rickshaws as busses are not allowed in the old city. Traffic were swirling around a circle avoiding the odd cow munching on a stray garland in the road.
I was safely deposited back at the hotel and decided to purchase some wifi time to upload the cellphone pics to facebook. I had supper at the coffee shop opting for lime soda and vegetable thai green curry and some steamed rice – time for a variation on the curry theme. It was very good, but quite hot. I got a complementary taste of another Indian sweet, with the staff eagerly awaiting the result of the tasting. The only way to the describe this (I forget the name) is like a very thick, warm sweet maltabella porridge I grew up with – I’d probably get shot for that description though 😛
It is now 1:09 pm and I’m going to turn in as I have to be up at 4;30 for pick-up at 5:30. We’ll come back for breakfast and then decide the rest of the day’s plans. There is a fort/museum the guide suggested, but he first have to confirm the price with the company as it is not included in the tour and the cost of the driver and the car need to be provided. In for a penny, in for a pound? Anyway things will sort itself out.
Namaste
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