Orchha – Delhi – Rathambore

I’m going to cheat a little and combine today and yesterday’s posts as it was mostly spent on the train.

The morning began in Orchha with breakfast at the hotel, overrun by a group of French tourists. Now those of you that know me, know that I hate French tourists with a passion, they just make my blood boil – and not in a good way! This did not bode well and the hotel’s card facilities was on the blink and I did not want to spend my last cash on something I can purchase electronically.

I met my guide and we set off to explore the collection of three palaces that are open to the public. He was just as sick as I was and explanations were stopped as a result of coughing fits – both his and mine. It was an interesting tour of a site that has only recently been opened as a tourist attraction.

The one set of underground rooms (phase 1 of the palace) has been securely closed as it was previously used by students from the nearby university town for clandestine meetings (of the non-political kind).

One palace has been restored is is now used as a boutique hotel.

The Mogul palace is just heart-breaking to visit. Is is beautiful, took 22 years to build and was presented by the king to his friend, the father of Shah Jahan (the builder of Taj Mahal). He only stayed here one night. As it was presented to him as a gift, it was never used again, until the British came to power and used it was military base. It kinda reminds me of 2010…. enough said.

After this we visited one of the most holy temples in India, built for the God Rama. The temple is so holy that the people of the town is exempted from paying government taxes (non-residents must still pay… as my hotel bill proves) and the sale of alcohol and meat in the town is forbidden. It was my first visit to an Hindu temple where people were actively busy with worship, several priests stationed around the temple receiving offerings on behalf of the deities and I even saw the delivery of a wedding invitation or two. One newly married couple mixed holy water (provided by the priest) with turmeric and put it on their hands. They then added their handprints to many others before them on a wall in order to receive the blessing for their union.

I somehow always thought the catholics had the lead when it came to religious rituals, but every encounter with the hindu uncovers another layer of ritual and symbolism… right up to leaving the temple walking backwards in order for not having to ‘turn your back on the god’.

With the short tour completed I returned to the hotel for a lukewarm pepsi and a rest. By the time I checked out of the hotel the card machine worked after the 8th try and we were on our way to Jhansi station. We passed a official looking man sitting by the side of the road – the driver stopped, payed him some money and came back with a slip. Tax for taxi’s and tourist vehicles – required as we had crossed some regional boarder.

This station was something else. I was met by a local representative who checked my ticket and ‘baby-sat’ me until I boarded the train. We were 30 minutes early and he clearly did not relish the time spent on the platform… It was everything everyone warns you about India on a single cement block… – minus the cows. I had to keep reminding myself that sad as this is, this is still someone else’s life I’m intruding on here.

The train was clean and neat, although a little battered and here and there the seat-trays would rattle loose from their latches and drop at random. The American tourists that sat close to me was adamant that their guide said they must avoid the food and drink at all cost, it is not safe. They even eyed the sealed bottle of water provided with suspicion. I never got such a warning, read good reviews and according to my intinary dinner is provided tonight and this must be it. It was good, although quite spicy and no harm had come to this individual…

We arrived at Delhi just after 10pm and a familiar face of the company rep was waiting on the platform. We chatted all the way to the car where another familiar face received a scolding – It was ManSingh ! Although I was glad to see him again he was supposed to be in Shimla with his family. Next week….

It was like coming home – the hotel gave me my old room and I could sleep in as check-out and drive to station was only at 11:45.

Safely in my room I took the meds for the cold and could barely stay awake to set my alarm clock.

I snoozed the alarm, but had to get up to still catch breakfast. After that I re-organized my suitcase transferring some shopping to the red case that is ‘squatting’ at the hotel. I’ll have to do a complete re-organise before I leave for cape town.

My transfer was early, but as unpredictable as Indian traffic can be we left all the same. Different railway line, different station. This platform was a little less chaotic and more clean that Jhansi. The train is less ‘luxurious’ that yesterday’s one, but clean and the food safe (as assured by my company rep). I ended up sitting with a group of Delhi doctors and their spouses taking a weekend break to Rathambore.

The ride was uneventful, although the waitrons ignored me completely, probably by now already convinced that the white tourist will decline everything anyways. Eventually I stopped one in a hallway and got some tea 🙂

Again a local rep met me at the station and I got transferred to the hotel in an open jeep – ‘safari style’ (as they say). The early evening warm breeze was quite nice as we drove to the hotel. I had to remind him twice that I’m from Africa and I’m used to riding like this. Although doing it on indian roads takes it to the ‘next level’ 😛

The hotel is nice and my room is close to the pool and restaurant. The food was good and the diet coke was COLD! The poor mother at the table next to me was pulling her hair out as the little boy had no interest in eating his meal. I explained to her that this is a universal problem of parents everywhere… As the father said… in his time it was easy, either you eat it now, or you eat it when you’re hungry later or you go without, your choice.

I bought a new hat at the shop as I seem to have lost the hat I brought along on the trip. Tomorrow there is biscuits and tea/coffee before we head out to the park at 07:00, breakfast will follow after 10:00 when we return. The afternoon at 15:00 there will be another safari drive.

Let’s hope we spot a tiger on a Saturday morning…