Petermann Island to Pleneau Island and my first (and only) Adelie penguin sighting

13 November 2022

Game of the day: Sudoko – I’ll give that a miss, thank you.

Confession – I chickened out of Kayaking yesterday (ok, technically the day before), cancelled the minute I received the schedule for 12th and saw my cabin number. Despite having it on my wishlist for this trip, I just felt overwhelmed and declined. Hopefully someone else had an awesome experience. [I did go through with Kayaking on the February 2023 trip though, ironically at Petermann Island!]

As per the previous post, our morning Petermann Island landing was cancelled due to weather. You know they mean business if they “close access to Deck 11”.

To me this was particularly disappointing as this was the first landing where there were both Gentoo and Adelie colonies and I was super looking forward to this. To date on this trip I have yet to see an Adelie penguin. Others may have, on an iceberg floating by, but they have evaded me.

What’s the deal with Adelies? Well, it started when I was researching Antarctica and I saw a documentary on Disney + ”Life on the Edge” relating to the making of the movie “Penguins” about Adelie Penguin Steve’s coming of age, finding his (extremely patient) mate Adeline* and raising their first chicks. I watched the “Making of ” movie first and then the movie. I just fell in love with Adelies. If you ever get the opportunity to watch either or both of these movies, it’s highly recommended.

*She is named Adeline – someone was either very lazy or trying to be ironic. Either way – that lady puts up with a lot – watch the movie, Steve is totally ADHD.

The morning was spent in the Explorer’s Lounge and when I rushed down to join the Elephant and Leopard Seals lecture – I missed the fine print – it was the German version. The English would be at 17:00.

I also missed Dom’s “Ice, Ice Baby” hands-on workshop. Pity, because it looked like it was great fun if I look at the footage Luis shot for our “Official Trip Video”.

I did attend the “Antarctic Fishes” lecture by Whale Census Guest Scientist Manu. He outlined the various fish species found around the Antarctic Peninsula and especially the enigmatic “Ice Fish” who has evolved to breathe through it’s skin. It has no hemogobin in its blood, thus the blood is totally transparent. This enables them to swim in the icy water without freezing – acting as an anti-freeze.

Manu had a “Show and Tell” about his various seasons at Argentine Antarctic Science Bases while gathering data relating to his PhD.

What really stood out for me about his very informative presentation was when he stated that he always thanked the fish for sacrificing it’s life to further scientific study. That, and the photos of the teams sharing christmas festivities “at the bottom of the world”.

As a scientific diver and enthausiatic wildlife photographer Manu is involved with various initiatives to raise awareness of fragile coastal areas and campaining to have these areas declared as protected zones. Later in the journey he would share inforrmation about their “Peninsula Mitre” campaign .

Some of the pictures from Manu’s presentation included stills taken from a short documentary he was involved with, showcasing his PhD research in Antarctica. The documentary is called “Pez de Hielo” i.e. Ice Fish and although it is in his native spanish, there are english subtitles. This has been showcased at various platforms around the world.

Screenshot Manu in his Lab from “Pez de Hielo” - Youtube link to the full movie

Around 14:00 the Weddell seals boarded the Zodiacs and headed for Pleneau island. Thanks Yibo!

Expedition team must have had quite a job at hand to try to smooth out this path after this landing, else a little penguin could get trapped in our bootsteps.

This was a walk up along a low ridge, but thanks to the VERY fresh showfall in the area (It’s not far from Petermann Island) it was a challenging walk through ankle deep powder snow.

At some places we sunk a little lower – the one lady was quite surprised when her next step sunk her up to her thigh in snow. She is not kneeling down in the picture – her left leg is in the snow. All in good fun and no-one was injured.

The blue in the holes made by the hiking poles were amazing and this picture does not do it justice. Also to be smoothed out after the landing… else they become unintended penguin traps.

While on our way up a lone Adelie Penguin absailed passed the line of Red Jackets – down on its way to the beach – much to our amusement. By the time I got my camera out.. all I could see was his little butt. But I saw an Adelie – yay! Luis got a nice video shot that he included in the “Official Trip Video”.

The Gentoos of Pleneau put on quite a show – even a demonstration of ”How to do social distancing properly”, in contrast with “No social distancing and the maximum amount of PDA” πŸ˜›

Then my Aspie eye for inconsistancies spot him/her…. I told Lancy, standing close by.
Incredulous Lancy – “Linda, you have Adelies on the brain.. this is a Gentoo colony, by now you should recognise them.”
Linda – “That one… look at him when he turns around…It’s an Adelie”
And much to Lancy’s surprise it was… Adelie sighting #2 and unfortunately my final for this trip.

Steve’s cousin – twice removed, I’m sure!

[When Lancy realised I was on the February 2023 Antarctic Circle journey his greeting to me was “Linda, did you come back for your Adelies?” πŸ˜› ]

Before operations could resume the expedition team had to pass a “Landing site inspection” by the “Pleneau Quality Control Council” They passed with flying colours – Go Team!

Yup, you seam to have all emergency supplies in place, in case the landing party cannot return to the ship. Carry on…
Teal (far right) smiling – he know i’s are dotted and t’s are crossed.

And our “Safety first” team ensured that all passengers were secured in the zodiacs – boots tucked under the rope, so in case of a sudden jolt the rope will ensure that passengers do not tip over backwards “Scuba diver style”.

Zodiac rides can be wet – there’s a reason they stipulate waterproof pants instead of water resistant and there’s no guarantee that the area where you end up actually “sitting” will be dry to start with. Just saying.

And we were treated to another sailing through the Lamaire Channel. No complaints here – you can never get enough. There’s a reason this is called “Kodak Gap”.

Tomorrow – Continental Landing #2 – Brown Station nestled in iconic Paradise bay…

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