Hallo and Goodbye Ushuaia (again!)

4 March 2024 – Buenos Aires – Ushuaia

OK, before we do anything else, lets address the elephant seal in the room… despite my best intentions, this trip will be another ‘backblog’… and possibly come in as drips and drabs.

Reasons for this are myriad – It’s easiest to blame Swan Hellenic’s new Wifi access policy. The Included “Silver Package” means that Wifi internet access is available, but is extremely limited – one device at a time and only a handful of sites.

You can upgrade and purchase better access, but only for the entire remainder of the voyage (pro-rata per day) at a rate that I could in no way justify. This also meant that the app/website for this blog was blocked.

True, I could have kept notes or a running daily draft on a MS Word document and selected my pictures – saved them in a directory per day – ready to upload once I’m home… but ‘couldda, wouldda shouldda’… I didn’t. I was too busy either taking pictures or participating/watching some guest activity or frankly – eating! Yes, I gained 3 kgs / 6.6 pounds during this 21 day journey – it is what it is.

As for pictures – some serious FOMO was in play. Every moment I was not outside taking pictures I had this nagging feeling that I’m missing opportunities. Despite not being out taking pictures during 100% of daylight hours I still took 16 406 pictures (including some very short videos) with my Nikon camera alone. This is after I have started, but have not made much progress with ‘clean-up’. I have no idea how many pictures on my phone, but the bulk was with the Nikon. Next step going through them once and deleting the obvious duds and “Just missed it – water only” moments.

So, as the T-Shirt says “Start Somewhere” – I actually have the T-Shirt. And as I can no longer claim to “Have a screw loose” (more on that MUCH later) today is probably as good as any.

The morning of 4 March I dutifully showed up for breakfast at around 5 am. A few early birds were already busy with their breakfast. Just as I sat down someone called out my name and commented something in the line of “Hopefully your trip can only get better”…

Chris! Chris and I had a brief discussion via a Swan Hellenic Facebook Group where we established that he and Chris(tine) will be joining this cruise- having done the reverse journey Cape Town to Ushuaia Nov 23 on sister ship SH Diana. He had quite evidently read last night’s blog post… LOL – Admittedly, I was very surprised.

I joined “Chris & Chris” for breakfast excitedly chatting about their previous journey and the run-up to today. I remember thinking that someone looking at us wouldn’t believe that we met mere minutes ago.

Following breakfast we were ushered onto the waiting bus where I recognised the other fellow guest that I had previous knowlegde of – Ash. Ash is friends and collegues with Matthew – the Cruise Norway agent that I booked my Swan Hellenic cruises through. Matthew gave me and Ash a heads up that we will be on the same cruise. Ash joined the cruise with his grandmother Helen – who soon became the beloved “Everybody’s Nan” (She’s getting that tattoo’ed after the cruise).

So the 36 of us – yes, that’s right… 36 pax set out on our adventure.

Before boarding the flight – at the boarding gate – I met Jason (of the argonauts).

On the bus between the Boarding Gate and the plane I met Pamela, who made a bold choice for her first foray into cruising – 21 days from the tip of South America to the tip of South Africa via Antarctica, South Georgia and Tristan da Cunha. Her funky red boots would become an icon of the cruise…

At least I knew a few names (and footwear) by the time the plane touched down at Ushuaia.

The flight was uneventful – the views of the snowcapped peaks just before landing, breathtaking, just as I remember it. I did watch out for ‘turbulence’ as a YouTube influencer complained bitterly that this is known to be a VERY BUMBY flight – which I couldn’t really recall from my experiences… and again.. it wasn’t. I apparently miss all the ‘fun’ **eye-roll**

We landed at the small cute airport and made sure that our checked luggage make it to the assigned area – ready for transport to SH Vega. Then it was out into the crisp air and Bus No 1 (of 1!)

Here my Antarctica cruise experience similarities ended… For those that ask me – you’ve been there, why would you want to go back… each cruise is different. Spoiler alert – With the exception of a single Brown Bluff Dejavu moment – nothing in this cruise overlapped with my previous trips -experience and itinary wise! Even the Ushuaia experience.

Our local guide took us to a lookout point close to the Ushuaia Aeroclub. From here we could see the harbour and the cruise dock from the “airport side” and take some pictures. I’ve never been here before!

While walking to the lookout point I met Taylor and Shane – the couple that will conclude their journey with an exchange of wedding vows in South Africa. Taylor – from the pictures it was SOOOO worth it schepping the wedding dress all the way across the USA, South America, Antarctic Peninsula and the South Atlantic! Congratulations guys – the very best of wishes for your future….

Then it was a quick drive along the ‘Main road’ with a warning that MOST shops here close for a siesta between one and two! We’re due at the boat at around two pm… so super limited time for shopping.

The bus stopped at the usual place – close to “The sign” – and no I’m not putting ANOTHER picture of “The sign” in my blog… You can never have too many pictures of icebergs (or King Penguins apparently!), but that adage does not apply to “The sign”, sorry.

I was on a mission for an order of fridge magnets and possibly Havana Lemon Cookies (for a collegue). Local flight weight restrictions meant that I resolved to purchase the cookies in Ushuaia. Off – up the hill to my “Go-To” souvignier shop – trying to make the most of the short timeslot.

What do you know – the souvignier shop accross the road from it is OPEN! It has always been closed during the hours of previous visits. Having checked options in shop 1, I decided to explore options in the ‘new’ shop and fell in love with some magnets. They seemed perfect and after a quick check with the requester (thanks FlexiRoam E-sim) and w/app the decision and purchase was made. Mission accomplished!

I asked the staff about a supermarket to purchase the cookies – they referred me to a small ‘kiosk’ further up the road or a bigger supermarket some blocks away and further up the hill. No cookies at the kiosk and a fruitless search for the supermarket. Eventually I gave up, running out of time and made my way back to the bus and the waiting SH Vega – Sorry Sybren, I tried!

Walking up the gangway to the Reception almost felt like going home! I later jokingly admonished Brandon for not keeping his promise of waiting for me at the end of the gangway. He did that with the July Svalbard trip, introducing himself to all the guests as they boarded – today he was otherwise occupied and would quickly come say hi while I was in line – waiting to receive my room keycard – huge hug and then disappear downstairs with things to do and people to see.

“Ms Linda, it IS you!, Putri said she saw your name on the list and hoped it would be you!” Jerome (Day Reception) and Jill (Purser) running the check-in at Reception recognised me from the previous trip. I would only see Putri (Night Reception) much later. I even had the same stateroom attendant – Melanie. She was a little taken aback when she came to introduce herself and I opened the door – LOL. Several staff members accross the vessel would recognise me as the trip got underway – even my drinks order – Coke Zero and coffee with Lactose Free Milk (not together!). I was taken aback as I kind of only expected Brandon to recognise me from Svalbard and then only because we have kept in contact sporadically and he was aware that I would be on the trip.

My anti-seasickness stickers already applied on the bus – forewarned – forearmed – I executed my other strategy of unpacking the bulk of my items as soon as I am in my stateroom and storing the suitcase under the bed. Later the afternoon I took a green apple from the fruit bowl in the Club Lounge and stored it in my fridge – just in case! Bring on the Drake Passage…

Enjoying the sunshine and some snacks and drinks at the pool deck – we were welcomed by Brandon and the expedition team. Gustav (Goodstuff) serenaded us as we embarked on our epic journey into the Beagle Channel on our way to the Drake Passage and eventually the Antarctic Peninsula…

We literally sailed off into the sunset with Gustav’s adapted rendition of “Leaving on the SH Vega” – apologies to John Denver… escorted by whale blows and black-browed albatross.