lindiki

Three weeks and a day…

Yes, departure from Ushuaia is in three weeks and a day… and as someone said today, it is starting to get real.

Especially taken into consideration that “The document pack” email from Hurtigruten made it’s long awaited/speculated appearance today. Everyone has been wondering when it will be sent out as it has the mythical status of answering every question we have been pondering/debating.

And it does, kind of – but it is also filled with links to information already provided on the website. Okay, maybe you have to search for it as it is not intuitively all in one place.

To be honest I have not read through all the detail e.g. Suggested packing list, but I recognise some of the links to various areas around the expiditions site.

All they are clear on.. the ship departs at 19:00 and hopefully your checked luggage will have joined you by then. You apparently part ways at Ushuaia airport. Copious warnings of having appropriate luggage tags (Self-print from link provided…. I have NOT tested this process yet…) AND the required information somewhere INSIDE the suitcase, in case the tag(s) and said luggage item part ways. Now that seems to be something they are clear on. Oh and what NOT to pack in checked luggage – the usual – No valuables, no medicines you definately cannot live without (especially prescription meds) – basically if its important to you (or the authorities – read passport,Proof of vaccination, Proof of travel insurance) keep it in your 8kg max carry-on.

[Update 21 Oct 2022 – Context – Apparently in 2019 a truck transporting a number of Hurtigruten checked luggage items to Santiago Chile port got hijacked and the luggage was stolen. No incidents since – but it does kind of explain their emphasis placed on keeping the really really important stuff with your carry-on, given that incident.]

It is very sparse/non-committal on timings-what time do we fly from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia? The morning of the 8th… early – too early to have a proper (included!) breakfast at the hotel, but we arranged you something edible and COFFEE…

What time does embarkation begin? Watch this space….., but if time allows there may be an orientation tour (drive around town in bus with someone with a microphone pointing things out “and on your left we will be passing the “End of the World” sign as made famous by Instagrammers everywhere…” blink and you’ll miss it. )

Looking at Facebook forum posts etc, some actually managed to do a 3 week Antarctica Cruise with just a carry-on. Now looking at what they stress in the doc pack, they may be on to something. BUT this girl is not going to make it with a carry-on only. At the best of times I clock the 8kg carry-on limit with just my ‘cant live without’ stuff (mostly gadgets) a set of extra clothing and the “paperwork”.

I already have more stuff than my case can hold (ok, the vacuumbags have not been employed yet) and will have to make some tough decisions. Hey, no judging I’ve had almost year to shop/prepare/overthink this. I’ll do a single case (containing a fold-up weekender bag – bought in Vienna to hold the overflow from my last trip – Xmas Markets Cruise Pre-Covid). I’m allowed a second bag on Turkish flying back. Just not on the charter flights to/from Ushuaia – 1 x Check-in bag – max 23kg and 1 x Carry-on item – max 8kg. Another thing they were clear on.

Loads of documents – more forms to fill in, print and bring with you for embarkation – information they already have in other forms – just saying. And the suggested reading.

I suppose it’s probably less formal that the actual “Suggested homework” reading/viewing list provided to Viking Antartica Passengers – Books, articles, documentaries, movies – I wonder if they get a test at Viking?

We don’t have a lot of time left, but if you want to pack/download/geek out on some additional reading, films to watch – down the rabbit hole.. sorry.. the link. Its on their website, it’s in the public domain, why re-invent the wheel? I was quite intimidated when I ventured to that area on the Viking website researching trip options – information overload and coming from me, that says something.

So, sorry, this ended up being a massive rambling rant. Mostly probably influenced by the fact that the documentation dont address the question on the forefront of (almost) everyone’s mind – what is T-Zero -> “embarkation”? The PCR test required to board must be within 72 hrs from “embarkation”, the alternative antigen test within 48 hrs of “embarkation” – when does the clock stop ticking? Nada – Only that if you are (hoping to join) the charter flight, Hurtigruten arranged antigen testing (at your cost – 65EUR) to be performed the evening of the 7th – again no time specified. You can provide your own lab certified test – but it has to be within 72/48hrs of “embarkation”

It kind of reminds me of standing at Mauritius airport waiting for a delayed flight back to South Africa. When will we fly… ? Today… and if not today.. Tomorrow. I kid you not, that was the official answer. Embarkation = any time on 8th of November before the boat is scheduled to depart at 19:00 … what’s 19 hours between friends?

Today’s picture – taken at V&A Waterfront in Cape Town three weeks ago. Granted we’re not going to the South Pole proper (although I’m open for that.. just not as a hike – someone has been there and done that!) I’ll settle for setting foot anywhere on the 7th continent.

The medical screening form

As part of the entry requirements for the cruise there is the submission of a medical screening form.

This needs to be filled in by yourself, electronically signed and then part B must be completed by your doctor and signed – within 12 weeks before your departure date. This form can then be scanned and electronically uploaded to a 3rd party portal – No earlier than 8 weeks prior to departure, but no later than 4 weeks prior to departure – so that if they have any questions there is still time to address these.

This to me was probably the ‘worst’ part of the preparation. It’s like the visa application or waiting in line at immigration. The more official the process, the more anxious I get – just because.

But I got the ok from my doctor – and a Typhoid shot to keep my vaccination-regiment valid. I asked for a prescription for sea-sickness tablets. The patches would have been first prize – but they are not available in South Africa. I got a homeopathic tincture as well – recommended by a pharmacist – Pegasus v.m.t. 30c (Vertigo, Morning and travel sickness).

Forms were duely submitted and a week later, following some email follow-up I received email confirmation that I have been cleared for travel. Yay!

Now this is real! I’ve held off with some items pending outcome of the medical – like purchasing a pre-paid data package.

Drake Passage, here we come!

Cabin 805

I still cannot really believe it – I’ve actually booked the cruise.

Jokingly told a friend that I’m going to start a blog (Cabin805) to document the journey as there is so much preparation that goes into this experience… or maybe it’s just me – overthinking everything.

Starting with the Cabin #.

I’ve been on a few cruises (Ocean x 3 and River x 4) to know that I wanted a balcony cabin – if at all possible. Watched a few youtube videos (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLStC1njvkc – Thank you Gary from – Tips for Travellers) on which cabins to go for and which to try and avoid… under the nightclub etc. OK, the ship does NOT have a nightclub – but hypothetically speaking…

My biggest thing was the ship has this striking red line that runs accross the balconies on deck 8. I wanted a glass balcony railing – so not one that is affected by the red line. I watched videos, paused video and counted balconies to figure out that Cabin 805 just misses the red line.

Its not close to a restaurant or laundry or Gym or elevators (where people stop for a chat before heading to their cabins)

All things considered, it checked all my boxes – save that it has a connecting door – but then you can’t have it all. [ Update – this turned out not to be a connecting cabin *happy dance* ]

Over the next few days I’ll try to document most of the preparations that have gone into the cruise up until now – with less than 6 weeks to go.

Adventure awaits

Sooooooo Covid put a damper on travels for the last two years – with no idea when we would be able to travel again, I did not even have a country/region/culture to obsessively research in preparation for my next trip. It just could have been anywhere.

I did book a trip to the “5 Stans” for June 2022, but cancelled November 21 when Omnichron made South Africans the boogie-man and we could not go anywhere. Who knew when the world was going to open up for us again. It’s still on my (extensive and growing) bucket list – apparently still have a ‘lifetime’ deposit with G-Adventures . It’s just not the an option at the moment.

Before Covid – Jan/Feb 2020 I was looking into Greece for later that year – maybe Easter? We all know what happened March/April 2020 – no travels allowed.

I could never have done it paying a single supplement. Then Hurtigruten sent an email – I’m on their newsletter and loyalty club member, having done the Bergen-Kirkeness-Bergen Coastal voyage in 2016. Well, we went halfway – stayed over in Kirkeness (Snow Hotel – baby! ) and Tromso. Did not return to Bergen via the cruise.

The blog for this cruise can be found here– starting with the flight Cape Town – Istanbul – Oslo – Bergen.

One of the many stunning bridges along the B-K-B cruise

Antarctica was always on my bucket list, ever since I first heard they allow a select few cruise operators to organise tourist expeditions for a small window of Spring/Summer. It was like the unicorn of destinations.

Solo cruise offer to ANTARCTICA! Single Supplement waived for select departures and selected cabins (not the suites obviously). What? Really? You have got to be kidding! And a 5% Ambassador Loyalty Club Discount – sweet!

I guess in a way… I couldn’t decide on the next country… so I’m going to a continent! Small little peninsula part of the continent, but I’ll take it.

Oh and the Falklands Islands – never ever thought I’d go there.

So this is the story of an almost middleaged girl living the “She thought she could – so she did” dream.

Sunrise Cuba – Sunset Mexico….

Not sure if its jetlag or just my bioclock malfunctioning, but its 4:30am and I cant sleep. Its been a very long two days and I’m sure I’m gonna feel the impact of not sleeping now later today… C’est la vie!

Got up early Friday morning determined to see the sunrise from the beach. Had a very nice chat with Daymaris at reception – buying another wifi card before having a coffee at the lobby bar and promising Ana to show her the sunrise pics later.

The beach was dark and quiet with one or two other persons with the same intention… Safety fears were placated with the assurance that multiple security guards are stationed around the area covering the hotel’s beach strip.

Saw the weirdest thing – a lady walking along the beach with what looked like a dog trailing her, or what should have been a dog just at the water’s edge… but it was a cat. It was one of the hotel’s residential cats – there is a cat feeding station next to the beach restaurant. The kitty joined me for a cuddle, letting me pick him up before running off into the vegetation.

The weather being stormy the clouds formed dark bands and sunrise was rather ‘low key’. My Sony camera has a condensation spot on the lens somewhere (again) and I eventually gave up using it on this trip. Took most of the pics with the cellphone and will use the Pentax waterproof camera for the balance of the trip. It does not handle low light well – or it does, but you need to fiddle with the settings, quite a process as the menu is extensive – compensating for the lack of ‘button’ options to accomodate the waterproof requirements vs a normal compact camera. Win on the swings – loose on the roundabout?

Walked along the beach to get various angles and light variations and ended up walking 4 kms to the end of the cove. Along the way at certain points there were the most beautiful shells – just there on the sand or shallow water – some if you picked them up were still ‘occupied’ by either their original ‘owners’ or ‘squatting’ crabs. It became a treasure hunt – the sunrise forgotten – ADHD much? At some point washing off the sand from a particularly spectacular shell a wave caught me by surprise – drenched up to my knees – sneakers, socks and jeans. Small price to pay for a priceless experience – the clothing can be washed and will dry.

At the cove is the Paradiso hotel – not sure if that is the right name – did not google to confirm, just got the name from my hotel staff after asking about it. Not even sure if something got ‘lost in translation’… but the point is, it got severely damaged during Hurricane Irma – they are busy with a massive rebuilding exercise as they are on a rocky outcrop right at the water’s edge…. prime location for the last 40 odd years its been since a hurricane made landfall in Cuba, not so good when it does. Everywhere you see bent pieces of metalroofing and patches of thatch missing… a stern reminder that Royalton Hicacos got off lightly – some water damage and mould being the worst of it.

After washing off most of the sand at the shower points dotted along the resort and washing the clothing, I hung it out to dry on the balcony and went for breakfast at around 10.. cannot believe 5 hours passed during that little excursion – but then I could feel it on the sunburn on my face – did not put any sunblock on, was not intention to stay out in the sun, just take some pics and go back.

Attempted check-in for Mexico flight – various technical issues with the service providers website and apps accoss both Apple and Android platforms. Eventually got assistance via Facebookmessenger as the lady provided me the necessary details I could not access – technology is great – WHEN it works. She was a real star… Ironically – it turns out that online checkin is not available for AeroMexico Havana departures – what do you know… LOL!

This was several Wifi cards later – you buy ‘airtime’ in Cuba – get 60 minutes access – which does not have to be a single session, but only one device at a time – not multiple access. Waiting for an app to download and a non-responsive website just ‘eats up’ airtime – kinda weird in a world where these days its more about download speed and the amound of data you have access to than ‘how long’ like in the old landline modem days.

Decided to skip lunch – its only three hours till dinner service starts – big mistake…. Went to have a drink at the poolbar – one drink, one cola and then catch up with some zzz before dressing up for dinner and seeing what goes on at the night club for my last night, have been hanging out at the lobby bar in the evenings and should probably get in one night of dancing… that was the plan… and then the Canadians and Michael and Jose (the poolbar-bar staff) happened..

I had one Mojito – my go-to cocktail (made with light rum) and Michael decided that instead of my diet cola he’ll make me something – it was nameless, but muy forte (very strong) with lime juice, limes, sugar, lemonade and DARK rum.. note to self – avoid DARK rum. During that drink the four Canadians arrived – and sorry if you thought the Australians are the big party animals – you just have not met Canadians at an all-inclusive resort. We started chatting, I tried for another Cola – which at least I got to balance out that killer drink. Agreed to a last drink – a Jose special – which the canadians ended up drinking 3 of… A mixture looking much like a Chocolate Don Pedro – lovely presentation… deceptively innocently tasting – Coconut liquer, Chocolate liquer, Coffee liquer, Coconut milk and pina-colada slushy mix. Wish i had the camera with me to take a pic.

Thanks to my anti-depressant (which works wonderfully, but has this ONE side effect) I am very sensitive to alcohol – that second glass of wine now feels like a second bottle. I could already not feel my hands, feet or face – not good. Does everybody have an “out of body ” experience in an alcoholic haze? I saw that nightclub tonight was NOT gonna happen, neither was supper. At least I had the foresight to pick up a fruit tart at the 24 hour snack bar on the way to my room.

Dressed in dry clothes, had coffee and some cruciale (phospholipid liver tablets meant to counter overindulging in alcohol) and went back to snack bar to have a burger and fries. Set my alarm to pack as I was being collected at 9am and by 18:30 I was asleep.

Woke up at 5:30, took more cruciale – just as a precaution and started to pack. Thank goodness there was no hangover symptoms, just a little tired and SLOW … as after showering and packing I only left the room after 8am. No time to go up to the buffet restaurant for breakfast – dreaded sweet pastries (karma?) at the lobby bar and coffee. I missed last night’s glass of bubbly – so impulsively and more as a joke I asked if its too early for champage – apparently it wasnt 😛

Left a goodbye message my waiter friend with Ana. I never got his name, apparently Johann? The plan was to have a final drink last night and say goodbye and thank you after the nightclub, but yeah, that did not happen. Moral of the story – dont leave stuff for later – it may not happen.

The drive to the airport was filled with cuban music – starting out with Despacito – which my driver (same guy as before) was impressed that I recognised within the first 3 seconds – I love that song and its been in my head for the rest of the day.

It was raining all the way causing us to dodge pools of water in the road and the wipers making timing of pictures through the windscreen a very interesting experience, but I got a few very good shots of classic cars along the way.

Check-in, boarding and the flight to Mexico was uneventful. Had to ‘sacrifice’ my what was left of my montagu dried fruit at the altar of customs – no fruit products allowed into the country and they were more strict than their neighbours.

Not so lucky with airport transfer though – apparently my driver experienced mechanical problems and could not make it to the airport. My phone being text roaming only they could not get hold of me. After 30 mins of patrolling the collection area someone called the company and they explained the situation. There was agreement that I will wait another hour for the 5:15 shuttle service as I did not draw any cash inside the airport (transfer was prepaid) and cant go back in for security reasons – the option to take a taxi and have them refund me thus taken off the table. Eventually after another phone call to co-ordinate locations Felix arrived and gave me spanish lessons all the way to the hotel – practico… LOL.

At the hotel check in the system showed credit card declined when they tried to place a hold on some funds in case of me using my roomcard as payment for services not included in my prepaid package. I hate it when technology does not work. Will draw some dollars this morning just to have something – my dollars all but used up – seriously I have 12 USD left – with the cuban hotel credit card facility being bust. A check online later after dinner shows that the hold did go through and a call to bank card helpdesk confirmed it – plus purchasing skype credits to make said call confirms that my card is not blocked. Will wait untill monday – as agreed with hotel – to see what the status is. SMS to confirm hotel holding funds also came through this morning – URGH

I was tired and fed-up when I went down for supper – which was really good. I’m two doors from main buffet restaurant – overlooking the beach and what do you know – one door down from THE GYM – seriously universe, knock it off – I get the message.

Ok – gonna take a sunrise pic from my balcony to add to this post and then have to get ready for my tour to COBA and TULUM ruins – its time….

Red flags and massages

Today was a resort-only day.

I was too late to catch the sunrise on the beach, but saw movement at the gym. Could not understand as I dont remember gym hours starting at 7. Nothing except for breakfast starts at 7 in Cuba, but thought now’s as good a time as any…

The view of the Gym from my balcony – the universe trying to tell me something?

When I walked in I realised that despite my keycard opening the facilty it is deserted – no towels, no water, no staff. A check outside confirmed – gym hours start at 9 until 6pm. There is Out of Service Post-its on the two treadmills… just my luck, the only item I was actually interested in. Decided to spend some time on the stairclimber, seeing that I’m here and dressed up.

A guy came in and basically made the same realisation I had – he also wanted to use the treadmills, but settled for the spinning bike instead. We specualted about the validity of the Post-its – I suspected its a rouse to stop ‘rogue’ users like us messing with the machines and hurting ourselves – too much alcohol available on site and everyone with a keycard can access 24 hours – can see the method behind the madness.

Following a shower and breakfast I spent the morning reading at the lobby bar – alternating between champagne, coffee con leche and sparkling water. Had at house special coffee – the description “our little gem”. The last option under speciality coffees (i.e. the alcoholic options) In a champagne glass, with a serviette tux this ultra potent brew with a final hint of mint liquor is not to be trifled with. Besides the mint I tasted Khalua but there’s more in that than just those two…

When the sun came out stronger I felt guilty for hiding out in the shade and ventured to the beach to find out how to secure the use of a kayak, still on my bucket list for this trip. But no luck, the weather (clouds, rain and thunderstorms for pretty much the rest of the week) has improved, patches of warm sun, despite a rather chilly wind. However the only action on the beach was a group of brave souls joining an enthusiastic beach aerobic class. Red flag flying in the chilly wind basically proclaiming that any beach related activity besides walking at the waves edge (or apparently aerobics) is forbidden. So much for that, back to lobby bar and champagne….

Which incidently is where I currently am, glass of bubbly in progress, after dinner, typing this!

Keeping I mind that I had a 2:30pm hot stone massage booked I drank loads of fruit infused water to counteract the house coffee alcohol spike and had a very light lunch.

The last two questions on the form you fill in at the spa… Have you eaten anything in the past 2 hours? Have you had any alcohol in the past 4 hours? On this premesis (literally all inclusive 24 hour food and alcohol available) that’s a rather academic question…. It should rather be ” How MUCH have you…..”

The massage was an interesting experience, the 2nd time in my life I’d had a male therapist and the first one don’t count as he was as gay as you get. The first question when you book – are you ok with a male therapist? I guess it’s probably a little sexist, but considering the rather initimate nature of a massage per se, it’s just weird having a guy do it? I wonder how do guys feel about a male therapist? I’m not talking physiotherapist sports massage here, I’m talking the hot stone/aromatherapy “beauty salon” variety…. I know they generally don’t mind a lady….

Well it was very good, but he seemed to take personal affront towards every tense muscle… and in my case that’s 90% … that’s despite the alcohol and antidepressant. Dude, its REALLY not you, its me 🙃 I’m sure I’ll find a few blue bruises tomorrow morning…. he found tense muscles where I didn’t know I had muscles.

Getting back to my room just as they were cleaning, so detour via the very popular home made ice cream station, luckily not 24 hours, only 12:00 to 18:00. Pistachio was my choice for today and it is excellent. Tonight with supper there was a coconut option, also very good, but a second scoop would be necessary for a final verdict, which I didn’t have.

Tried to read after a shower (I detest sticky stuff on my person – oils, sunblock, hair products, foundation on my face) They only stay for as long as really necessary. Reading didn’t go beyond two paragraphs as the after effects of the massage kicked in. Slept until after 19:30.

So, basically, besides supper and ending up at the lobby bar, that’s my day. A acoustic duo just started playing and the guy has a beautiful voice. ” ain’t no sunshine…. ” …. wonder how long before the other staple … “Stand by me” will make an cameo appearance ? I actually prefer the local spanish stuff, like despasito, like he’s doing now, LOVE that song, despite the Bieber association 🤣 Apparently so does the batcholorette group and the one cleaner dancing with the mop! At least in Cuba the dancing is mostly a natural expression and not alcohol induced. Gotta love the Latin Americans.

Signing off to “Tears in heaven” a favourite of one of the waitresses…. but guaranteed to make me cry…

Rainstorms, Trumpets, Sangria and Salmon

Day 1 – Cuba Havana Airport to Varadero

After a delay at Istanbul we arrived late at Havana. For some reason I packed some dried fruit – more as snack for daytrips for Mexico, I should have known better or at least checked my Eyewitness Guide Cuba – no fruit/veg/meat products allowed into Cuba.

Dutifully I filled in the customs form – declaring the fruit – no use getting into trouble. No-one seemed interested in my declaration form and the lady looked at my securely locked case and shook her head – nope, you can go through. So much for stressing about them going through all my stuff… mountain – molehill, I know, but I detest the official part of customs, I always draw attention and because of that I look nervous, which draws attention – vicious cycle I know. C’est la vie.

Seconds after my customs dismissal I saw my name on the cardboard – my driver was right outside the door, waiting despite the almost 2 hours delay – luggage took long to arrive and immigration and security isnt fast. He had to wait another 30 minutes as I joined the line for forex to get CUC – only available in Cuba and cash required to pay him for the journey. Its hot and sticky – welcome to Cuba, just as I remember it.

Another thing that caught my eye at the airport – short short skirts with patterned stockings, including fishnets – TO WORK? With the public? Got it flaunt it, much?

Just my luck – my very friendly driver speaks poquito english and me… well poquito Spanish (despite my very good intentions of learning the languange the last year – not much happened) Well its a 2 hour journey and we got along, sharing a love of the local music and shaking our heads at the ‘loco’ local drivers ignoring roadsigns left right and centre. We saw a few drivers being pulled off for speeding violations – The fine isnt that bad – 40 CUC, but they have a points system and its BRUTAL – 3 speeding fines and you lose your license – FOREVER – no waiting period – no re-applications – FINI!!!! He laughed when I said its like Baseball – three strikes and you’re out…

The countryside is green and beautiful, I searched for pictures on the internet before I went, but there was none available, despite that I remember it being so green and lush. I took a few pictures and we played name the classic car maker as the cars came by. As we get closer to Varadero there are many signs of the new petrolium based industry in the area – I know its required for the economy, but visually it spoils the countryside – progress at what cost?

I’ll be seeing my driver again in a few days time as he is also picking me up in Varadero and driving me to the airport in his yellow audi taxi.

The hotel is beautiful and extensive – I have a butler assigned to me – WTF??? He asked me if he could unpack my case for me – NO – thank you… I’ll be allright. Communication being sketchy the lines that connect the banking machines are down, so no card transactions possible without copious phone calls – there goes almost all my cash to pay for the hotel – I was bargaining on using the pre-loaded debit card for that. Luckily my cash was sufficient, but I will need to get more before Saturday and my trip to the airport.

Contemplated a shower, but decided that swimming would also suffice. Lunch and then went to look at the ocean and it did not just stay with a look – I ended up taking a swim in the turquoise crystal clear warm water before showering off the sand and parking at the poolbar (in the shade) and having a mojito and a diet coke – not together – obviously.

Then the lack of sleep caught up with me and I ‘tested out’ my bed around 16:00 – when I woke up it was 02:00. Aw well, lunch was too much and the 24 hour snack bar seemed to far, so I just turned around and slept on 🙂

This morning the plan was to do breakfast and then go the the lobby bar, get internet token, update my fitbitt app so that my device can realize its in Cuba and sync with the watch for local time. For some reason internet connection is required for this. Having accomplished this and uploaded a few pics on facebook I returned to the room to drop off the tablet (which could not connect to wifi anyways). I saw something at the shop and investigated – ended up buying a pair of flipflops – here the card works – strange, but true.

As I walked out the heavens opened up around the main building – streaming with rain and people giggling everywhere. Good thing I went back, else I would have been on a open top bus on my way to Varadero by then. At least I could go get my umbrella in the room – and boy was it handy.

The open top bus was crowded as everyone bunched up in the small area at the bottom to avoid the rain. I got off at the recommended stop – It’s Varadero’s version of a small mall, mostly geared at tourists with small shops for curios to designer clothing, a few restaurants, a small supermarket, pharmacy and a bank. The main attraction (the reason I’m there) the ATM is offline due to communication issues. The only alternative – the bank, which with my luck just closed for 1 hour for lunch.

I walked around and passed the time untill the bank opened again and I got some funds, enough to get me through to second day in Havana. Hopefully I’ll get an ATM there for the rest. Walked around the market and did some shopping – including a small bag that will fit my cellphone and room keycard for days I dont want to carry a bag with me around the resorts.

Wish I could say the trip back was uneventful, the bus stopped some way from the hotel and walking back I did not see a piece of metal sticking out the sidewalk, stubbed my toes and was quite worried that I may have sprained my toe in the process. It hurt quite badly, but after getting to the room and putting on chinese spray it seems like the worst is over and nothing seems broken. Trying to keep off the foot and will see how it goes tomorrow morning.

Its still raining on and off and its rather cool – wearing sneakers, jeans and a hoodie tonight. Sitting with a glass of bubbly at the lobby bar after a supper of salmon, lobster and they handed out sangria welcome drinks. Apparently its the managers cocktail party in the Jazz bar tonight, but I’ll skip on that one.

The plan is to have another drink of some kind, then coffee and retire to my room. Hopefully I can get the tablet to connect and publish this post.

Having accomplished the mission for the day – get CUC’s, tomorrow is a clean slate with no mission. Will see what the day brings. Treadmill with my “injured” foot is off the cards, best not tempt fate 😛 The hotel gave me a room with a balcony looking out right at the gym. So far only the ladies seem to be working out… just my luck…

To Istanbul and afternoon in Istanbul

Sunday was a crazy day. Somehow I just could not finish packing and lacked direction – more like ‘all over the place’ spending most of my time searching for stuff I know I had seen somewhere.

In the end I was 45 minutes late for my pickup to the airport – luckily the transfer company could accomodate the change. Once checked in and past all the logistics I could have a quick cola and bite at the airport lounge – seeing that I missed lunch and it was too late for the planned coffee pre-check in. Lounge was a first for me, a new perk courtesy of my banking package and a total Godsent under the circumstances.

The journey was not what I would describe as my most comfortable flights ever – for all of my ability to sleep on a flight, I slept precious little on this one. I felt hot, cooped up and uncomfortable – the hours ticked by slowly.

Once in Istanbul I made sure that I could go to transit area and then return to arrival area to clear passport control and exit to join the tour. After some searching located the primeclass lounge and opted to pay my 40 euros for 4 hours access – turns out with Mastercard its 10 Euro off – bonus. It was a small price to pay for a comfortable leather couch – enough space to curl up for a snooze, coffee, drinks, breakfast and A SHOWER with complimentary toiletries and disposable towel.

I made my way through passport control and eventually found TourIstanbul and left luggage at one end of the arrivals hall – next to a starbucks. Bag was re-packed – daybag for trip and non-essentials left in bigger backpack to be stored – at 28 TL – not cheap. If I had known that you can store the bag on the bus (they lock it in the bottom luggage compartment) I would have gone that route, but I thought it just stays inside the main passenger area – which is less secure. Lesson learned.

Seventeen of us joined the tour – most of the group from former USSR and the rest were french and one spanish lady with non-existing english skills. She did not read the fine print stating that the tours are in english only. I was the only native English speaker on the tour – quite an interesting experience picking out the few russian words I understand, but somehow we found a way to communicate and share the fun.

Lunch was very good – chickpea soup with lemon, flatbread. Fresh mixed salad and lamb kofta (meatballs) with frenchfries and milk and caramel pudding with cinnamon. My random drink turned out to be sour cherry juice and the russians shared a traditional salted yogurt drink, but it wasnt that big a hit.

After lunch we had free time to visit te Eyup mosque – however this co-incided with 13:00 prayer time. Gave us females the chance to join/witness the females in their prayer area, but even after the main prayers were done and most men left the main prayer hall, there were still some activity, so as a woman I could enter and see from the edge, but could not take any pictures at the risk of causing offence. The ceilings in the courtyard is quite pretty and I could take a few pictures there. Plus there are loads of cats in the area and one of the russian ladies is also a cat fanatic 🙂

Next we drove to the Oldest active Greek Orthodox church and had a look around before visiting an old colourful area and school on a steep hill. From here we picked up the ‘morning’ tour group at the Blue mosque before returning to the airport. We arrived back just before 18:00.

Having to collect my backpack I had to find my way through the maze and retrace my steps back to passport control – another reason not to leave the backpack at the airport. At least this time I knew exactly where to go for the lounge and caught up on lost sleep before having to board at 00:40.

There was quite a lot of people going to Havana – more than I expected. Luckily I had the two seater row to myself and slept quite peacefully for most of this 15 hour flight. But I was really relieved when I looked up and saw land below us – that wide expanse of ocean for so long isnt my cup of tea. Also, for some reason this flight did not have the map tracking feature we are now accustomed to – so you could not really see ‘where we are’, maybe better that way.

We departed late, so our flight landed in Havana 50 minutes later than expected – I kinda felt bad for my taxi waiting for me since 8 am – now already waiting 50 minutes and we havent even done baggage claim or immigration yet.

Forbidden City and The Wall

Yesterday we visited the Forbidden City, had a ricksaw ride through the Hutongs, visited the Temple of Heaven and saw the Kung Fu show. The shopping stop of the day – silk market.

Lisa, our guide mixed our itinary up a little, so we were all a bit unprepared for a very long day. We did not receive a pick up confirmation – only a 8:00 phone call – we’re waiting for you. So – no breakfast yesterday. Thank heaven for the jungle bar I keep in my daybag.

Forbidden City was very very busy – more busy than she has seen it in a while. We skipped the museum due to time constraints and went to the hutongs for lunch at the home of local family – a state sponsored restaurant initiative. It felt a bit intrusive, but the food was good.

After lunch we visited the Temple of Heaven, giving me the opportunity to take more smog-filled pics there. I was looking forward to a visit later in the week with the possibilties of clearer skies.

After the temple – the obligatory shopping stop – this time a company that specialises in silk items, including silk-filled duvets and pillows.

Kung fu show was very loud, but interesting and energetic, but I’m not sure that is what the boys parents had in mind when they sent these guys to the temple to become monks. The actors in the show are all real monks.

After the show we stopped for supper en route home. It was good and chop stick skills are improving all round our little group of 17 – brits, south africans, australians and one tall gorgeous Sudanese lady. She is getting a lot of attention from the locals and everyone wants a picture of/with her. Quite the celebrity.

At the hotel my SIM card has eventually been located (it arrived before we did – just as scheduled, but was misplaced). It was installed successfully and I received an email today with VPN details. Only I have no way to get pics from camera to Samsung Tablet – cant upload any pics.

This morning we were more organised and managed to fit in breakfast before being on the bus at 7:40 as agreed.

We drove to the Great Wall section we were visiting, but en-route stopped at a facilty that specialises in Jade and gemstone carvings. The carving skills and patience is amazing, but nothing was in the price range I can afford.

Then we climbed the wall and a group of us took it very easy and made it eventually as far as you can go on that section of the wall. We were awarded with the privilegde of being able to buy a medallion (engraved with your name and the date) to commemorate your ‘achievement’.

The way down was much easier, or we were just on such a high we did not notice the effort. Rhodene and some others did not go all the way up our section, but turned back and braved the other much steeper (almost vertical) section open to the public. Due to the smog the views were dissapointing and pictures grey – but it was a bucket list experience none the less.

Our efforts were rewarded with yet more chinese food and a visit to a facilty that specialises in intricate copper enameling. Lovely to look at, but nothing I want to take home. Looks like something that will require dusting…

Then we travelled back to the city for a visit to a chinese medical centre where you could get your feet massaged/reflexology treatment and your health checked by the local specialists. Expensive packets of herbal powders were prescribed for various ailments. As I trust my Cape Town Homeopath I decided to decline the offer and watch the spectacle. The group promised feedback on the outcome of the various treatments.

Then on to a acrobatic show for some. Me and Rhodene and some others opted to walk around the area and visit the local shops instead. Some interesting stuff in those shops… and thats just the food.

Another chance to test our chop stick skills followed – this time a restaurant popular with the locals and not set up with busloads of tourists in mind. Most flavoursome meal to date 🙂

Supper was followed by a drive through the CBD and town centre – past the forbidden city to see Bejing by night – all lit up. The show that is Bejing traffic also never ceases to amaze even that time of night.

We arrived at the hotel at 8:30. I opted for a soak in the jacuzzi and some me-time in the sauna. Hopefully this will help lessen the impact of todays 49 flights of stairs my fibit claims I have done through the course of the day.

It’s 23:11 and I’m going to turn in now. Tomorrow we leave at 8am to see the pandas at the zoo, visit a pearl market, visit the summer palace complex. Lets hope we find the pandas awake 🙂

Hallo Jetlag my old friend….

Its 2:30 on a Saturday morning in the suburbs of Beijing and now that the worst of the post flight tiredness has faded – went to bed at 8pm, dead on our feet… I cant sleep. Sitting on the floor in the bathrooom with a coke zero, so that Rhodene can at least sleep in peace.

Somehow travelling east does this to me and I get to know 3am very well in this time period.

Sooo yeah, on the road again. We departed Cape Town to Beijing via Dubai on Wednesday early evening. The flight was uneventful and thank heaven the first leg I had my back of the plane two-seater for myself. Thanks to this and flight socks I dont have the usual post-flight swollen lower legs that was the bain of my first days in India and Cambodia. A blessing, because day one was (abeit, self-imposed) eventful and 14 000 steps later – my little fitbit dont know what hit it.

Dubai had us hunting for Tiger Balm – a special request from someone Rhodene knows, consulting tech resources at the duty free tech shop – her Vivofit wouldnt sync to her phone’s new time zone. My fitbit needs internet connection to sync the phone’s new time zone via the app – huh? It syncs via Bluetooth and the phone knows what time it has… I dont understand the need for ‘external internet services’ in that transaction, but anyways, perhaps thats why other people develop the apps hey! Lessons learned and with a new appreciation for ever present wifi at home – all wrist devices are now in the same timezone as their respective owners.

A voucher from Emirates had us visiting Ocean basket for Fish and chips for breakfast and a non-sponsered coffee fix at starbucks. We trekked through the shops to kill some time, drooled over the new technology – in my case a purple strapped fitbit charge 2 (only black available in RSA yet) and the latest upgrade in my Sony compact camera’s range – but at 1200 USD (yeah, we asked to confirm and did the USD to ZAR math) its a mere pipedream at this point. Pity, cause with Sony no longer in RSA this is propably the route I’ll have to go. I just love that camera range.

Rhodene indulged her chocolate fix, we tried some perfumes and it was time to board the flight. This time it was choc-a-bloc. Someone hijacked Rhodene’s special meal (how does that happen, they always confirm if you are the person and what kind of meal it is – I’ve been doing diabetic meals and the routine is always the same, no matter what airline) But yeah – the “madame” then got compensated with business class meal instead. The whole nine yards – she was delighted, could get used to all the faffing and the experience upgrade.

Had a giggle – the chinese airhostess yelled at the chinese passenger that ignored the “stay seated, safety belt on, untill plane comes to a halt and sign switched off” – thing. TWICE!!! Never seen anyone sit down and stay put untill after the sign was switched off, but that evening that was the case. Always a first for everything.

Our ride was waiting for us, despite some earlier confusion around our first night’s booking at the hotel – the hotel could not confirm the agency booked us the extra night, right up until before we left home. I could just see us squatting in the lobby last night 😛 But almost everything went well. My SIMcard did not seem too have arrived as ordered, so we were at the mercy of hotel wifi and trying to negotiate the great china firewall.

My Vodacom SMS roamer activation seems to have been a bust – no sms’s go through, although I can connect to a local service provider – so something must be active, else it would have said “no service”. This afternoon we got WhatsApp and Skype to work and my email seem to be up again – yay. No Facebook though, but the odd notification comes through, weird. Could at least via W/App get the message home that we’re safe and sound and technologically challenged – even if it is a day late.

Got about 3.5 hours sleep last night and had to go on faith that 8:30 was my Temple tour pickup time, as I could not connect to receive the promised confirmation email.

Rhodene joined me for breakfast and then took a complimentary shuttle to a high-end mall close by to see how the ‘other-half’ lives. Lunch was a french chocolate pastry and a diet coke – go figure! The balance of her day was dodging scooters on her short stroll back, lounging in the room and figuring out the TV service.

I travelled to six temples with Leo, my guide and our driver. It was interesting and insightful and a peaceful haven away from the chaos that is Bejing traffic – shudder.

We started at the Lama Temple in the hutongs. Wish I could take a pic of the the massive Sandalwood budda, which is the main attraction – all carved from a single tree. Not to be disrepectful, but to share the experience. The roots to the other buddist areas I’ve visited is very visible and some statues reminds me of Thai/Cambodian features and even some Hindu symbols/characteristics. There was a statue in the chinese buddist temple (The Lama Temple has its roots in Tibetian buddism) that reminded a lot of a catholic madonna type statue – the features was more western/european, wonder what that was about?

Paid my respects in Lama Temple with the three sticks of insense and got to turn my favourite tibetian buddist items – the prayerwheels again. Maybe some day I’ll get to do it in Tibet. Left with a pink stone bracelet as a reminder of the experience.

Next was the Temple of Confusious a few Hutong blocks down… different atmosphere, similar architecture.

We then drove to the Temple of Heaven Complex. It is beautiful, abeit quite busy. With all the people around it looses a bit of its awe. The air was very smoggy yesterday and hopefully when we visit there later the week – this one is part of our Merry Travel tour – the sky will be less grey and the colours will glow more.

Next was lunch at a local restaurant in the muslim area. Leo frequented this area as a student and this is his favourite place to eat. It is small, nondescript and very busy. The food was very good – no english, picture based menu. I declined the weird stuff – had experienced that in Cambodia – abeit not exactly on purpose. We had chicken screwers – spicy – Stirfried beef with green peppers and onions – spicy and prawns with peanuts and vegetables – spicy. Plain sticky rice provided the starch. As there was no diet soda’s we shared a 600ml light beer. It was a really recommended experience.

From here we walked to the oldest mosque in Beijing and it being Friday and with our luck a local muslim festival honouring the ancestors we gatecrashed a ceremony. I was quite surprised they let us in at all. The police presense outside had me a little worried, but all was calm. I felt a little out of place, like I always do when I visit a active place of worship mid-ceremony, I know I’m intruding on someone’s private experience. We walked through quietly and then left.

Next was White Cloud temple – not on the tourist route. Very quiet, very peaceful and loads of cats.

Then onto the final temple – the Toaist temple. Again a different experience – we witnessed a ceremony, possibly a funaral service? It is not as quiet as the buddist sanctuaries and the monks look like professors in graduation robes.

We dropped Leo off at a metro station as he hosted another walking tour that evening and the driver took me back to my hotel – stopping at a catholic church built in 1905 for me to purchase my rosary. I was so glad to find it open at 5pm, but had to search for someone to assist me with the purchase as the shop was empty. Eventually someone was found and I got a red and gold enamel rosary that reminds me of the red/gold hanging lanterns I saw all over the places I visited today – iconic of china.

Traffic was crazy en route to our hotel – around 20km outside the city centre. Again I have new respect for our drivers patience, courage and spatial skills. I think even as passenger I aged a few years, and not due to his driving, but the other road users… expect anything.

Once home they still could not locate my SIM card delivery and I managed to send a mail off to the company requesting a status update. Just after six we decided against room service and went down to have supper. Some Peking prawn noodle stirfry for me and sticky rice with pork sausage for Rhodene. We almost fell asleep at the table – maybe room service would have been a better call – on hindsight. Used the teller Forex exchange machine in the lobby to get more Yuan and now we’re ready for the Merry Travel part of our tour.

We have no idea what time to meet up later today – will go for a safe 8am. The promised 9pm confirmation call never happened. Today it will be rainy and we’ll be visiting Forbidden city and hutongs (local lunch included) and tonight a Kungfu themed show – Riverdance – Kung fu style? That’s the impression I got when I googled the show anyways… and supper included. Watch this space.

Got a email that my SIM card was delivered at the hotel on Thursday at 10:30 the morning and now I have a tracking number (YAY!) Will try to locate the elusive package again in the morning, armed with my new found knowlegde.

Okay – its 3:30 and I’m gonna see if this posts and try to sleep again.

Pic is Cape Town in Chinese – as per my visa. You have to indicate the place of Visa issue on the immigration card when you enter the country. That is all thats on the visa and had to google translate via pic feature to find out if they issued at Cape Town or Pretoria – heaven forbid you get it wrong on a doc like that. Tricky – we submitted to a office in Cape Town, but they send it to be processed at the actual embassy in Pretoria – this one could have gone either way.

I have no way to upload pics to the tablet from my phone just yet.One technical challenge at a time, ok?

Beijing Blessings

L ….