Adventures and ramblings of a late diagnosed Aspie who is obsessed with Travel, TEMPLES, Ancient Civilizations, Religion as a social construct and recently POLAR EXPEDITION CRUISING.
I had a few things I wanted to see/buy/do in town and precious little time to do it.
Priority #1 – Postcards and Fridge Magnets
I went up the road past the red public phone box and the Globe Tavern. Honestly, I literally went into the first shop I encountered that sold gifts and souvenirs. There I purchased and mailed some postcards, fridge magnets and a brightly coloured Falklands Beanie with a little penguin mascot – the red matches the jacket – it was meant to be, ok?
Falklands Beanie @ West Point
Somewhere between the Gift Shop and the Visitor’s centre I bought a book about Falklands and South Georgia wildlife – the long term plan being to at some time visit South Georgia.
Priority #2 – Church
Then I set off to the Church and the whalebone structure. A quick walkthrough – admiring the stained glass windows.
Anglican Parish of Falkland Islands – Christ Church CathedralInside the Cathedral and the church yard.
Priority #3 – The West Store
On recommendation from the expedition team I had a look around the department store and ran into a South African expat in the “Mrs Balls” isle. We had quite a giggle. There were countless familiar items in the store – #ProudlySouthAfrican seem to be well represented – in bottled form at least.
Life’s good with Mrs Balls, Nandos and a bottle of “Tall Horse”.
During dinner that evening I jokingly showed the pictures to one of the Future Cruise Consutants – who happens to be an South African expat – she burst into tears when she saw the Mrs Balls (South African condiment). Apparently she’s been craving it for months and her mother has been unable to ship some to Europe – her new home. Had she known it was on offer, she would have stocked up – but she walked by the shop – opportunity missed. She vowed to patronise the shop during the next Stanley stop on this assignment.
Priority #4 – Visitors Centre
Luckily the Visitors Centre is right next to the dock, so I could have a quick look around without having to factor in too much travel time to catch the tender. I had a quick look around at the handicrafts, books and souvenirs.
The Jetty Visitor Centre
Some random Stanley photographs:
Stanley moments
Then it was off to patiently wait in line to board the tender back to our floating home.
The only time we used the tender boats during our cruise…
The evening following our “Next Day Briefing – West Point Island” Luis gave us a quick photography refresher to enable us the make the most of the opportunity to photograph the Black Browed Albatros fest tomorrow – shutter speed settings are key to get that “frozen in mid air” shot… not like this one with Luis all blurry, but at least I got the ‘cheat sheet’ on the screen.
Photographer in motion…. Luis (or how NOT to take an action picture!)
This morning, we woke up to a view of Stanley, the capital city of the Falklands.
I booked an optional day tour to Volunteer Point – a farm that is home to King Penguins, Gentoo Penguins, Magellanic Penguins and sheep. As it is quite a drive from Stanley, we were first to take the tender to port and the waiting (ubiquitos) Land Rovers.
Arriving at the dock and the welcoming committee – some Fur seals and a Turkey vulture
Biosecurity reminder – the first thing you see…
and then the road with the red phone box.. leading to, you know, a tavern – what else?
But first visiting ‘greener pastures’ – Land Rovers waiting in the little parking lot next to the Visitors Centre.
As we leave the town the road conditions get progressively worse the closer we get to our destination. Being from Africa it did not really bother me, but the Norwegians who were in the Land Rover with me complained bitterly.
It is a bumby ride – there’s a reason there is a helicopter transport option to this colony.
But first – the “Stone Rivers/Stone Runs” along the way had me in awe. Sadly, no time to stop and explore though, would have to content with pictures from the moving vehicle. Geology geek much?
Stone Runs between Stanley and Volunteer Point site.
And then on the horizon – reminiscent of the Moai of Easter Island – Sheep, King Penguins and then King Penguins AND sheep.
Lancy’s comment re Saunders’ Island – also populated by King Penguins and sheep – The penguins looked a little sleepy – they were probably counting sheep 😛
The living Moai of the South Atlantic?
Long story short – We were “let loose” on the property, with some general rules. Shown where the bathrooms are and packed lunches were available at your assigned Land Rover. We had time to explore and had to return to the Land Rovers at a given time.
Packed Lunch (Sandwich, Snacks, Juice), Water and an “Infopack”
We roamed from sea to rolling hills – various penguins and birds everywhere. Did not see any sheep on the beach, though – just saying.
The invasion of the red jacketed penguins and yes, that beach could have been anywere on the South African “weskus”, they were once connected after all.
En-route to the beach I was subject to inspection by a trio of Kings – but I wasn’t interesting enough and they waddled on. The back one looking more than a little disappointed. ..
Apparently I was not the droid they were looking for!
Out of the surf the vagabond appeared… A Fur Seal male that has been terrorising the colony recently. The previous week he actually ventured on land and attacked the Magellanic penguins that live in their little burrows on the border between the beach and the farmland. Luckily this time he stayed in the surf.
They may be King Penguins, but I’m king of the beach.
Beach Boys… They get around.
Gentoo and King penguins on the beach.
Magellanic penguins are not quite as charismatic as their brushtailed cousins.
Magellanic penguins and their not quite so safe burrows.
Everywhere there were King penguin chicks in various stages of loosing their down or in some cases just laying down.
Brown fluff balls – not a hint of the royal colouring to come.
And some adults were nearing the end of this seasons’ catastrophic molt’ – growing a complete new set of feathers and shedding the old ones. A very energy intensive process overlapping with 2-3 weeks of fasting, as they loose their waterproofing until they are able to spread the special waterproofing wax onto their new feathers.
Catastrophic molt – Looks like a bomb exploded in a pillow factory.
Along the way back we stopped at a little windswept farmstead. There were some interesting signs posted and a “Honesty System Bakery Box” or those who felt peckish while the smokers got their fix.
Neither kids, nor pets made an appearance.
After our second free chiropractic session in the Land Rovers we were back at the Visitors Centre. Some decisions had to be made to maximize the very short window to explore Stanley town before the last tender returns to MS Roald Amundsen.
Linda went into “Amazing Race” mode – which is what happens when I have “free time” at a destination – There’s a mental checklist of things to see/do, some mental map of how to get there and then the games begin 😛
You are here… according to the realtime data streamed to various devices all over the ship – including the big screen TVs in the cabins.
Position 10:53 am en route to the Falklands
This morning there was no major whale pods, but apparently some penguins snuck onboard during the sea ice landing and guests were recruited to help locating them…
Kudos to the Expedition team on this “Game of the day” Super Super Cool!
Today’s Sea Day schedule – Some rock hard choices to be made:
I attended Dom’s lecture on “Geology of the Falklands”. He is very adamant that pictures/recordings during lectures are not allowed and I respect that.
What I do remember from this lecture is that Falklands was intially connected to the “West Coast” of South Africa – hence geology is very similar.
Never seen anything like that before – was not included in our High School Geography cirrucilum.
I can’t remember if I actually attended the Cloud Observation or if I had every intention and then life (and ADD) happened.
What I do know is that my imaginary clay penguin did not get an imaginary colourful coat of paint. However, the artists in residence were very busy in the crafts room.
Nancy and co – Clay Workshop Part 2 Paint your clay penguin.
Lancy’s lecture on “Birds of the Falklands Islands ” was (as always) super informative with a sprinkling of Lancy’s signature sense of humour.
Lancy – Birds of the Falklands by numbers… You know you got it right when your “subject” almost perfectly matches the Tourism Billboard! – Billboard in question.Find your Caracara -know your Cara Cara !
Macaroni ♥ Southern Rockhopper – Kevin does it “His Way”
Falkland’s odd couple – sharing parental duties – who cares what the neighbours (or scientists) think!
[And it’s lasting longer than some hollywood relationships – The pair was spotted at the same nesting site in the beginning of the 2023 Austral Summer! This would make it their 3rd anniversary ♥]
Time for a bathroom break and to grab a quick coffee before Fritz’s “Wild Falklands” covering everything Falkland not addressed to date – People, plants, animals and places.
Fritz sharing years of experience (and wisdom) in his calm and gentle way.
Regrettably, I did miss Dom’s “Rock Star Corner” workshop – double booking much? However, I did get a chance to see at least some of the exhibits that were still laid out after the session.
Rock star corner (on a round table?)
And then it was time to “Meet the Expedition Team”. “Talk Show” in the Explorer’s Lounge with Zoe interviewing Luciano, Heleen and Teal.
This was so funny and special. Thank you for participating in this you guys. Many things were said, confessions made, skeletons, dreams and hopes revealed.
Blushing “Puss in Boots” talks himself into a corner….
After dinner I took some pictures of the sunset in the blustering wind and ran into a brave Scotsman who tried to take advantage of a clear night sky to see the “Southern Cross”. And so I met new friend Derek. We started chatting and next thing we know it was almost midnight and we were still on Deck 11. We decided something warm(ish) was called for – before the Explorer Lounge closes for the night. I had a coffee/hot chocolate and mr Scotsman had a whiskey (hold the ice!).
“Clear skies – blustering wind”
Probably not the time to say that tomorrow I need to be up and ready bright and early to catch the first tender to Stanley. I (in my naivety) was still under the impression that this “Antarctica-thing” was going to be a “once in a lifetime” experience, so I booked a guaranteed King Penguin colony excursion to Volunteer Point. I was not going to leave a possible King Penguin sighting to chance.
You are here… according to the realtime data streamed to various devices all over the ship – including the big screen TVs in the cabins.
Position 9:05 am en route to the Falklands
This morning breakfast was ‘interrupted’ by a myriad of puffs visible from the panoramic windows of the Aune restaurant.
General excitement and disbelief. Me not wanting to miss a thing, but also dying to be a fly on the wall up at the Whale Sensus station on the Bridge….
We were surrounded by a 200+ pod of Fin and Sei whales. This was highly irregular and the scientists went well …whale.
Puffs and more puffs and puffs in the distance…Was lucky enough to get this pic of two backs – one with dorsal fin, the further dorsal just just visible.
Today’s jam-packed Sea Day schedule:
Schedule for 16 November 22 – as collected from Reception after 18:00 the previous evening.
First up was Luciano’s lecture on Shackleton’s Imperial Transatlantic Expedition. He had some interesting parallels between Shackleton’s crew and Rocky Balboa.
More “History Guy” moments
If I remember correctly today I actually joined Dom on Deck 10 next to the pool for Cloud Obervation and data upload to NASA’s Globe Obeserver app. You can find the link to download the app on Google Play Store or Apple here – if you want to participate and submit data for your location.
Register an account and the app will walk you through the process – you basically become NASA’s eye on the ground supplementing what the sattelite provides from above with what you literally see as the sattelite moves over – the app instructs you to take pictures (outside obviously) – up, down, left and right at a certain time that corresponds closely to when a sattelite is overhead.
I did not “Connect with my inner Penguin” to get creative and make a clay penguin.
Heleen hosted “Giants of the Depths” lecture introducing the guests to the various giant creatures that live in the REALLY REALLY deep parts of the ocean.
Heleen explaning Bergman’s Law
This also included the Giant Squid that live in these waters.
“The Colossal Squid (Mesonychoteuthis hamiltoni) is the largest cephalopod in the world, surpassing even the mighty Giant Squid (Architeuthis dux). It also boosts the largest eye in the animal kingdom. This massive squid can reach up to 46 ft. (14 m) but some believe it can grow even bigger! The Colossal Squid is known to live in the deep waters around Antarctica, but little is known about the true extent of its range and habitat. Despite its massive size, it has one predator, the equally impressive Sperm Whale (Physeter macrocephalus). it was first described in 1925 when parts of the animal were found in the stomach of a sperm whale. A live specimen was caught by a fishing vessel in 2007. Like most squid it has 8 arms and 2 tentacles, but it is the only species to have rotating hooks inside its suction cups, which it uses to grab on to prey.” – Source “Infographic Post by Peppermint Narhwal Creative“
Maru informed the group that there are two specimens in museums in Argentina – One being in the Natural History Museum in Buenos Aires. This immediately got added to my “Must see list” I did eventually make the ‘pilgramage’ in March the following year…
“Calamar Gigante – Bernardino Rivadavia Museum of Natural Science, Buenos Aires”
Heleen closed out the lecture with a tribute to one of the foremost female marine biologists, oceanographer and National Geographic Explorer Dr Sylvia Earle.
Connect with your inner aquanaut.
After lunch the Weddell Seals were scheduled for a visit to the Bridge. This was very interesting and hi-tech. Great to see some of the screens I see when I look up from my balcony – in context.
No seasickness experienced so far, but man does that medication make my drowsy.
Closed out the day with the “Cocktail of the Day” in the Explorer Lounge.
A blue drink looking out over a blue Drake Passage, blue horison and blue skies…
Tomorrow would be another “Sea day”… so far, so good!
On a high we said goodbye to the Antarctic Peninsula and set our course to the Falklands Islands.
What I remember from this evening is from the photos. I think I was too overwhelmed to notice anything specific.
Luciano’s Lecture on Deck 10 – Not sure of the title, as by this time all scheduled activities for the day has been re-arranged extensively.
Luciano in “History Guy” mode.
Incredible icebergs on the way back.
And as if to say farewell that evening we were blessed with the most spectacular of sunsets so far in the voyage…
Closed out an incredible day with a warm drink in the Explorer Lounge – nothing turned out as I expected when I woke up this morning – it topped even my wildest dreams – the chocolate sprinkles on my Irish coffee.
Irish Coffee in Antarctica
Tomorrow and the next day would be “Sea days” and I was more than a little worried about getting sea sick despite the change in medication.
During Lunch the Captain annouced that they are looking for a spot to “dock” the ship next to the sea ice and each boat group can have their “15 minutes of glory” walking on Shakleton’s Sea Ice in the Weddell sea.
Not accounting for global warming – it was always said that Antarctica doubles in surface during the winter months as sea ice forms as extensions to ice covering the continent.
Although we were surrounded by loose ice floes this was our (seriously once in a lifetime) opportunity to set foot on that mass of sea ice connected to the continent – the very edge of Antarctica.
Everyone stood by the railing and watched the captain “parallel park”/dock this huge vessel next to a relatively straight edged part of the ice. No words!
No way!
Then the gangplank went down and the Expedition team checked the surface and thickness of the ice… you could hear a pin drop on that deck… bated breath…
Thumbs up – it’s a go! Cheers and awe! Everyone checked the Hurtigruten App for the timings…
While waiting for our chance to go I walked around the ship taking pictures of the other groups landings…
Watching the other groups and Expedition team on the sea ice.
And a little surpise came into view…
Emperor Penguin #3!
Then it came our turn to go… it was over so quickly…
Weddell Seals (some of us anyways) and Expedition teammembers Dom and Joaquin in yellow.
Face blindness strikes again…
Luciano and his steampunk goggles.
This photo of Luciano during the Sea Ice landing just reminded me again – we had a long conversation there by the gangplank that day. I cannot remember if it was that evening or the next day in the science centre we talked about the landing again and I said to him “Somebody told me that in all their time with Hurtigruten this is the second time they have done such a landing where he was part of the expedition team”… and he looks at me baffled (and I think a little offended)…
“Linda, that was me – I told you that.”
Oops, awkward! At least I remembered the conversation – that counts for something, right?
Sea ice – Weddell Sea close to Snow Hill Island
And then it was time to gather the flags and cones, get everyone aboard and gracefully the captain pushed away from our impromtu dock and we were off to the Falklands.
Woke up to a beautiful view of Brown Bluff , but it was too windy and the swells too high to safely use the Zodiacs – so no Continental Landing #3 for us. 
Disappointed, at 7:25 we waved byes byes to Brown Bluff and headed to the other side of the Peninsula, into the Weddell Sea, to see what we could see – (sorry.. I had to!)
Byes byes Brown Bluff.. maybe someday!
Turns out some beautiful icebergs – and then at 7:45 our first Tabular iceberg, which this area is so famous for.
I was mesmerised as we sailed round James Ross Island in the direction of Snow Hill Island.
You are here – approximately, kinda – The Red Arrow
We sailed on and the sea ice became more prominent.
Sea Ice – Weddell sea
And then around 11:20 the annoucement came – and EVERYONE migrated en-masse to the bow viewpoint on Deck 7.. someone has spotted an Emperor Penguin!
Stop the boat! Emperor penguin sighted!
Just the previous day someone had asked Lancy about seeing Emperors and he stated that it was highly unlikely as they do not usually venture this far north. In fact, this was Lancy’s first Emperor penguin sighting.
[Subsequently I have learned that there is a small colony of Emperors on Snow Hill Island and what we thought were roque travellers could quite possibly belong to that colony. We were practically ‘in their backyard’. This colony has become the focus of some Weddell Sea themed expeditions – the highlight of that itinary.]
This penguin was not extremely co-operative as far was photograph opportunities go.
Let me sleep!
This day just kept on giving – 11:58 – another ice flow played host to a more lively Emperor!
Bonus – Emperor Penguin
Everyone was ecstatic and the restaurant at lunch time was a buzz…
Then, during lunch, the captain came on the PA with another annoucement…
I used to collect my paper copy of the “current” next day’s schedule from Reception on my way to the 18:30 “Information for Tomorrow” briefing. It’s usually available around 18:00. Even though the issue with the app has been resolved, I preferred to have a hardcopy to make notes on during the briefing and personal notes on the day.
These “retroactive” blog posts are a combination of info from these printouts, photographs taken with my camera and iphone and facebook posts during the voyage. Sometimes Luis’ video.
My notes on the planned activities: Brown Station – Continental Landing (#2). Argentine station not currently manned [Later I would learn that when there are scientists at the station guest landings are not allowed – Manu was there during my February 2023 trip – Hi Manu!] Expect Gentoos, Blue Eyed Shags/Imperial Shags/Antarctic Cormorants, Snow Petrel and Skua. [They forgot the ever present Snowy Sheathbills, or maybe they’re a given?]
Woke up this morning to this stunning view.
Waking up to a symphony of blue
Game of the day: Crossword.
Brown station landing schedule – Weddell Seals from 10am. So spent the morning after breakfast looking out over Paradise Bay from the bow of the ship – Deck 7. But…
Then “Zoom envy” stepped in… it’s a thing and for the first time in this journey I was frustrated with my little Sony’s 30x Zoom.There is a colony of Blue Eyed Shags that nest next on the cliffs just left of Brown Station. They fly to and through ferrying nesting material the entire duration of our stay. I just cannot get a decent picture of nests or flying birds.
Getting a picture of that blue ring around the eye becomes an obsession and will stay with me long after my flight has touched down in Cape Town.
Blue Eyed Shag nesting site – the snow free cliff to the right of the zodiac.Stages of zoom.. and yeah.. not happening
Confession – prior to this trip my knowlegde of birds can pretty much be summed up as follows:
Then Antarctica and Lancy (and in a way Fritz too) happened and now I notice birds. Not so that I would describe myself as a birder, but I notice them and even start to recognise some. Later in the trip I would even try to photograph some on the Drake Passage.
The actual landing process take longer than anticipated. The expedition team had to excavate an steep impromtu staircase from the docking area up to the base and support ropes have been set up to assist acending the stairs – together with team members stationed along the stairs as additional support.
This also means that going up/down the stairs is pretty much a ‘single file/one way’ affair. Severe bottle neck restricting movement between the landing site and the ship. Much circling of zodiacs.
Various options regarding pathways and viewpoints. I take the easy way out – pretty much straight to the Gentoos.
Time for a bathAlmost holding flippersTaking a break – pic by CarolI wonder if they realise they are “Continental Gentoos”
From there joining the queue waiting to return to the ship. Trying in vain to photograph the parade of Blue Eyed Shags ferrying nesting material to the cliff.
Chatting patientlyBlue Eyed Shag – the best I could do
I do get some pictures of a Brown Skua and a pair of Snowy Sheathbills. No Snow Petrals tough.
Snowy SheathbillBrown SkuaSnowy Sheathbills
Thank heaven for heated bathroom floors…
I cannot remember how it came that virtually every piece of kit needed drying, maybe all that standing in the snow waiting.
And the “Information for Tomorrow” lecture held even more surprises - after Brown Station we were scheduled to visit another Brown.. Brown Bluff – Continental landing #3 and extra special for me, as it is a site with incredible geology created by subglacial vulcano eruptions.
Another opportunity to see Adelie (!) and more Gentoo penguins… and if you look up – there’s a possiblity of sighting the nesting Snow Petrels… WOW!
Map of Brown Bluff landing site – “Information for Tomorrow” briefing by Geologist Dom.
Game of the day: Sudoko – I’ll give that a miss, thank you.
Confession – I chickened out of Kayaking yesterday (ok, technically the day before), cancelled the minute I received the schedule for 12th and saw my cabin number. Despite having it on my wishlist for this trip, I just felt overwhelmed and declined. Hopefully someone else had an awesome experience. [I did go through with Kayaking on the February 2023 trip though, ironically at Petermann Island!]
As per the previous post, our morning Petermann Island landing was cancelled due to weather. You know they mean business if they “close access to Deck 11”.
To me this was particularly disappointing as this was the first landing where there were both Gentoo and Adelie colonies and I was super looking forward to this. To date on this trip I have yet to see an Adelie penguin. Others may have, on an iceberg floating by, but they have evaded me.
What’s the deal with Adelies? Well, it started when I was researching Antarctica and I saw a documentary on Disney + ”Life on the Edge” relating to the making of the movie “Penguins” about Adelie Penguin Steve’s coming of age, finding his (extremely patient) mate Adeline* and raising their first chicks. I watched the “Making of ” movie first and then the movie. I just fell in love with Adelies. If you ever get the opportunity to watch either or both of these movies, it’s highly recommended.
*She is named Adeline – someone was either very lazy or trying to be ironic. Either way – that lady puts up with a lot – watch the movie, Steve is totally ADHD.
Link to Youtube Bloopers in the making of…Link to Youtube Official Trailer
The morning was spent in the Explorer’s Lounge and when I rushed down to join the Elephant and Leopard Seals lecture – I missed the fine print – it was the German version. The English would be at 17:00.
I also missed Dom’s “Ice, Ice Baby” hands-on workshop. Pity, because it looked like it was great fun if I look at the footage Luis shot for our “Official Trip Video”.
I did attend the “Antarctic Fishes” lecture by Whale Census Guest Scientist Manu. He outlined the various fish species found around the Antarctic Peninsula and especially the enigmatic “Ice Fish” who has evolved to breathe through it’s skin. It has no hemogobin in its blood, thus the blood is totally transparent. This enables them to swim in the icy water without freezing – acting as an anti-freeze.
Manu had a “Show and Tell” about his various seasons at Argentine Antarctic Science Bases while gathering data relating to his PhD.
What really stood out for me about his very informative presentation was when he stated that he always thanked the fish for sacrificing it’s life to further scientific study. That, and the photos of the teams sharing christmas festivities “at the bottom of the world”.
As a scientific diver and enthausiatic wildlife photographer Manu is involved with various initiatives to raise awareness of fragile coastal areas and campaining to have these areas declared as protected zones. Later in the journey he would share inforrmation about their “Peninsula Mitre” campaign .
Some of the pictures from Manu’s presentation included stills taken from a short documentary he was involved with, showcasing his PhD research in Antarctica. The documentary is called “Pez de Hielo” i.e. Ice Fish and although it is in his native spanish, there are english subtitles. This has been showcased at various platforms around the world.
Screenshot Manu in his Lab from “Pez de Hielo” - Youtube link to the full movie
Around 14:00 the Weddell seals boarded the Zodiacs and headed for Pleneau island. Thanks Yibo!
Expedition team must have had quite a job at hand to try to smooth out this path after this landing, else a little penguin could get trapped in our bootsteps.
This was a walk up along a low ridge, but thanks to the VERY fresh showfall in the area (It’s not far from Petermann Island) it was a challenging walk through ankle deep powder snow.
At some places we sunk a little lower – the one lady was quite surprised when her next step sunk her up to her thigh in snow. She is not kneeling down in the picture – her left leg is in the snow. All in good fun and no-one was injured.
The blue in the holes made by the hiking poles were amazing and this picture does not do it justice. Also to be smoothed out after the landing… else they become unintended penguin traps.
Hiking in fresh snow – watch your step, even if you follow the flags!
While on our way up a lone Adelie Penguin absailed passed the line of Red Jackets – down on its way to the beach – much to our amusement. By the time I got my camera out.. all I could see was his little butt. But I saw an Adelie – yay! Luis got a nice video shot that he included in the “Official Trip Video”.
The Gentoos of Pleneau put on quite a show – even a demonstration of ”How to do social distancing properly”, in contrast with “No social distancing and the maximum amount of PDA” 😛
Then my Aspie eye for inconsistancies spot him/her…. I told Lancy, standing close by. Incredulous Lancy – “Linda, you have Adelies on the brain.. this is a Gentoo colony, by now you should recognise them.” Linda – “That one… look at him when he turns around…It’s an Adelie” And much to Lancy’s surprise it was… Adelie sighting #2 and unfortunately my final for this trip.
Steve’s cousin – twice removed, I’m sure!
[When Lancy realised I was on the February 2023 Antarctic Circle journey his greeting to me was “Linda, did you come back for your Adelies?” 😛 ]
Before operations could resume the expedition team had to pass a “Landing site inspection” by the “Pleneau Quality Control Council” They passed with flying colours – Go Team!
Yup, you seam to have all emergency supplies in place, in case the landing party cannot return to the ship. Carry on… Teal (far right) smiling – he know i’s are dotted and t’s are crossed.
And our “Safety first” team ensured that all passengers were secured in the zodiacs – boots tucked under the rope, so in case of a sudden jolt the rope will ensure that passengers do not tip over backwards “Scuba diver style”.
Zodiac rides can be wet – there’s a reason they stipulate waterproof pants instead of water resistant and there’s no guarantee that the area where you end up actually “sitting” will be dry to start with. Just saying.
And we were treated to another sailing through the Lamaire Channel. No complaints here – you can never get enough. There’s a reason this is called “Kodak Gap”.
One of many “Once in a Lifetime” pics The other Linda admiring the floating ice – Weddell Seals had TWO Linda’s – we’re THAT cool!
Tomorrow – Continental Landing #2 – Brown Station nestled in iconic Paradise bay…
Apologies for only updating posts today… Literally day 7 of the “cruise” but 5 days since boarding.
I severely underestimated the impact and the intensity of the experience – or maybe it’s been too long since my last travel or maybe its different after Covid or maybe a combo of both…
It’s been on the go non-stop since leaving my home in a rush, feeling severely underprepared… and I have not caught up since – at least it feels that way.
Obviously as I’m writing this from Petermann Island arounds at the Antarctic Peninsula I passed the Covid Test and is currently on-board the M.S. Roald Amundsen – as those who follow the Facebook posts would gather. Super-blessed.
This morning was supposed to be a landing at Petermann Island, with our boat-group the Weddell Seals being the first group out at 08:30. However at around 07:30 during breakfast the annoucement came that current weather conditions (driving rain, snow and winds) does not allow safe shore excursions and the landings are ‘postponed’ to later this afternoon… pending what Mother Nature decides.
I’m in the Explorer Lounge and quite ironically “Sailing” by Rod Stewards is playing as background music. Watching little icebergs floating by and the wind driving rain and snow … sometimes lost tufts of fluffy snow swirl against the windows.
Surprise Surprise – never having been plagued by sea-sickness in my life, I got severely ill just after we left the relative calm of the Beagle channel. It was supposed to be a relatively calm crossing as far as the “Drake” goes… 3-5m waves… in contrast with the previous group that experienced 10+m waves coming back from Antarctica to Ushuaia.
I took the tablets I brought from home just after we left Ushuaia (7pm), but 4am the morning the nausea struck and stayed through the night and most of the next day. I got some tablets from Reception the afternoon. That seemed to have helped.
Someone else in our Weddell seal group, who also never previously experienced sea-sickness, but also had a bout of Long-Covid, also wonder if there is link there somewhere.
Anyways… the programme has been jam-packed and it takes me 20 minutes to get ‘dressed’ and ready for ‘landings’ between the layers and the boots and the life-jacket. So always keeping an eye on the clock not to miss a landing or zodiac cruise.
There are also lectures, craft activities, science experiments and a huge library. I have attended some very informative lectures – some in person and some via the streaming option (Channel 5 on the big screen TV in the cabin – a German translation available on another channel).
Talking about lectures … the one on Elephant and Leopard seals just started… was going to miss it.. going out on a landing.. but now.. I can make it.. See you later… Seal time..
Growler (smallish piece of ice, but not big enough to qualify as bergy bit) floating by as viewed from the Explorer’s Lounge
Temple & Iceberg Trails: A Journey Through Asperger's 