Temple & Iceberg Trails: A Journey Through Asperger's

12 November 2022

The view I woke up to this morning.

Today we visited what would be my favourite of the landings during this voyage – Danco Island, but first Ice…

Activity of the day – Wordsearch. Picked up the wordsearch sheet at the Touch Table in the Science Centre and was studying it while sitting at the “Whale Table”, coffee in hand, a little early for the first lecture of the day.

“Ice, Ice Baby”.. “Ice, Ice Baby”… Dom comes by singing under his breath and then he sees me.. “I know it’s actually a song about drugs, but it works, OK?” It’s his intro jingle and title to this morning’s first lecture “About water, ice and its role in the Antarctic environment” . To me this will become Dom’s theme song.

I enjoyed the lecture thoroughly, geology being one of my favourite subjects. Given the recent spate of flooding and ultra-high spring tide that hit the Western Cape last year, the impact of climate change and rising sea levels simply cannot be dismissed as fearmongering and conspiracy.

Just after 11am it was the Weddell Seals’ turn to decend on a pristine white snowcovered Danco Island, a small group of Gentoo’s as a welcoming committee. It was breathtaking.

There was a short walk up a ridge that afforded unforgettable views of the Gentoo colony, icebergs and the ship. I still cannot believe the photos taken by my little Sony camera that day.

[We visited Danco Island on my February 2023 trip as well, but there was hardly any snow left and it just did not have the magic of this visit. I decided not to go ashore that time as I did not want to “override” my Danco first impression. Aspies see things as Black/White. There’s hardly any shades of grey – I can either have a pristine white Danco or the muddy Danco – my brain struggles to hold space for both.]

Post Cards have been made available at Reception (for a fee, obviously), but I also purchased a handful at Ushuaia just in case we do make it to Port Lockroy and there is an opportunty to patronise the Penguin Post Office.

Today was the day Port Lockroy was on the afternoon schedule. I was very excited as I was not sure if we would go this far South – having read that early sailings are less likely to make it to Port Lockroy due to ice conditions.

What I did not realise was that three of the ladies who would be “wo”maning the Station for that summer season were on our ship. Hurtigruten was their Uber to work… so to say.

That happens if you miss the Captain’s Welcome event. I can’t remember if I just decided it was too many people or if I was still feeling sick, but anyway – I did not attend.

So as a result I missed what would have been the most helpful of events – The introduction of the major roleplayers from the crew and also the expedition team. I suspect that, together with the guest scientists doing the whale census, they would have introduced the Port Lockroy team as well.

[Lesson learned – I videoed subsequent introductions on my later cruises and could thus go back and refer to the video if I wanted to know who someone was and what their role would be. Super helpful.]

After lunch we headed to Deck 6 for a lecture by the Port Lockroy ladies on their journey from responding to the “Call to Port Lockroy” to shovelling their way into their “home away from home”. Incidently – this home does not have any running water or shower facilities – showers happen courtesy of visiting cruise ships as and when the opportunity arise.

The snow was so thick this season that the cabin that serves as their home was almost completely buried under the snow. A naval ship crew and the other three ladies that arrived earlier have been working to clear a path from the landing spot to the museum, opening up the museum and opening up the residential cabin. Some of the Roald Amundsen crew have also been helping through the course of the day.

Almost everyone in the lecture hall offered to assist – they would not let us help 😦 We would have to make do with a Zodiac cruise around the bay – watching the action and the penguins from the water.

Our postcards will go ashore with the ladies and they will stamp them and send them on their merry way. [All postcards accounted for, ironically the one destined to Mexico arriving first.]

16:30 The guest scientist lecture on Whale Cencus work being carried out while the boat is moving in daylight hours. There were two guest scientists on board that stood in the bridge and surveyed for whale sightings. If there is a sighting, they would record it and obtain the co-ordinates from the captain. This information is used to extrapolate whale population information in the region.

Sometimes the two work together – two sets of eyes better than one, but they also work in shifts.

When the boat is stationary, they join the guests on guest activities and they also have the red jackets, not expedition team gear.

I did not get the lady’s name, but promtly named her “Whale-chickie”. In my defence she pretty much opened her presentation with the confession that she is obsessed with whales. MUCH later I would learn her name is Maru and I now remember it because it is very close to that of her collegue Manu, who did a lecture on Ice Fish (his field of speciality as a marine biologist) a few days later.

They happened to be one of the first guests I noticed on the ship – before we even left Ushuaia. They were relatively young – not the general guest demographic, so to me they stood out. They were on Deck 10 when we departed and I think I asked him to take a picture as we sailed away.

18:30 it was time for the Weddell Seals to cruise around Port Lockroy. We were the last boat group for this activity.

I remember going down to the Expedition Launch on Deck 3 – all dressed up and for some reason going via the glass elevator in the Atrium. Normally I use the front elevator close to my cabin and then the stairs at the atrium – from Deck 6. In the elevator I ran into a gentleman – dressed in a t-shirt and shorts. We still laughed at the contrast… as I joked “Maybe I’m overdressed”. He seemed to recognise me from somewhere and I thought he looked familiar – but I don’t know why. He’s not some random fellow guest.

Standing in line waiting to go to the Zodiac they called for a single passenger to fill up a waiting Zodiac. I went forward and got hustled past the queue and deposited on Boat 9 – right next to the driver.

We were waiting for permission to leave the tender pit and he was making conversation with the guests – a familiar phrase came out “Born and raised in Santiago… moved to Puerto Natales”. Ok, so this is THAT musketeer. He also said something to me that made me realize that this was the “History Guy” that did the Polar Exporers talk the other day and that he remembers that I still need to give him the flashdrive. More puzzle pieces snapped into place.

Then it came over the radio they use to communicate with the ship – “Boat 9, you can’t go yet, you need to wait for Nahuel to return.” Although I knew that Nahuel was the name of one of the expedition team, to me it sounded very close to Noel. We have a sarcastic joke in South Africa when someone is very slow – saying “Krismis kom ook” meaning if you wait long enough, christmas will be here soon. Being mid November and relatively close to christmas – I kinda as an internal joke muttered under my breath.. “We can’t wait for Christmas”.

He heard me and immediately wanted to know what I meant. I kinda explained that Noel means Christmas and although it’s November, it would probably not be ideal to wait for Christmas before we do the zodiac ride.

I got a weird look – I tried to explain “Noel is Christmas in French? Like in the song “The first noel”… OK, I know it’s a “western” association and he’s South American, so I didn’t really expect him to understand the reference per se.

[Also, Nahuel means Leopard in the language of one of the last indigenous Patagonian tribes that originally inhabited Tierre Del Fuego. Something he would know, but I wouldn’t.]

Either way – he looks at me and says.. I didn’t know that. I explained that although I realise that they are referring to his teammate and it would be highly unlikely that there is a link between his name and Christmas. He acknowledges this.

“But you know French?”

“A little – I did a year of very basic French at varsity – very long ago.”

Mistake….

This just opened up the whole… “French is the language of love”.. topic. Why does that always happen?

“Do you like French? Do you like French more than Spanish?” I’m not answering this, still wondering how this always happens when French is under discussion and then… “Yeah, French may be the language of love, but Spanish, Spanish is the language of PASSION”…

AAAND THERE HE IS… “Puss in Boots”-guy. Was wondering where he’d got to.

I was not going to entertain this cliche. He was not too happy when I closed the subject saying – “We are not having this discussion – Let’s just agree there’s something about the Latin languages and leave it at that.”

At least now I had context that blended three of the personalities into one musketeer. I made a note on my program upon return to the cabin, but added the name Julio – which was incorrect, but ironic. [Lancy, nametags, I know… 😛 ]

Later that evening in the Explorer’s lounge I would realise why the guy in the elevator looked familiar – He’s the entertainer/piano player and HE is Julio. Puzzle pieces – snap,snap. History guy – He’s Luciano – Sorry Luce, I got there eventually. And yes, the correct musketeer did the flashdrive before the journey’s end.

The zodiac ride was snowy and atmospheric as it was very foggy. We could barely see the station or the penguins. The navy ship lending assistance to the team floated like a ghost ship in the bay. There was a nearby iceberg that looked like the Sydney Opera House – eerie.

The evening after “Information for tomorrow” session, there was a special impromptu feedback session at the microscopes by Zoe (whom I had marked as “The Science Lady”) on some mystery goo they collected during the Science Boat session during the day.

My first experience of the citizen science activities on board – I was sick during the science introduction lecture (and introduction to Zoe) on day one. Late in the game, yet hopeful, I signed up for Science Boat, but I would never get a chance to participate during this voyage.

Later that evening we sailed through the stunning Lemaire channel – light snowfall – just magical.

Some context for 12 November 2022 post

Ok, I always thought that I was bad with names and faces and maybe I’m just not trying hard enough. Also I worked as a temp for 4 years at a total of 40 companies – some more than once. So I have met a lot of people for short timescales. I thought that may be a contributing factor to my extremely bad memory recognising people outside their original context – e.g. If you took the morning train with me to Old Mutual weekly and suddenly I see you in a mall – I may not know who you are, without the familiar “background” of the train setting and me “expecting” you to be there.

My ex used to have this smile when people stop me and start to chat… we have a conversation.. and say our goodbyes – me avoiding any specifics and not introducing him for fear of having to “introduce” the other party and provide some context – “This is Sarah, she takes the train with me in the mornings.” I may even know how you drink your coffee (when we’re on the train) but right there.. right now.. in the mall, far away from the train and you in your weekend attire – sans office dress…

Colin – You don’t know who that is….
Me – Not a freaken clue – I know I know her from somewhere, just it could be anywhere.

She clearly knows me, but our discussion did not reveal any smidgeon of information that could provide context – Not even a see you on the train, Monday! That would have been helpful or just narrowed down the possiblities. Cause now I’m wondering.. where the hell DO I know you from?

This used to happen a lot – he kinda picked up on my “generic scripts” when I was caught off guard and franticly wrecking my brain trying to place the face in front of me in some context – Do I remember looking at you somewhere else? What’s in the background of that mental picture? Can I use that information to place you?

And somehow.. if someone ever caught on, no-one said anything directly. Much to Colin’s suprise…

[I’ve always identified with Hermoine – she is so definately a younger me! Incidently, according to ASD specialist Tony Attwood Hermoine is an almost textbook example of a Aspie girl  See referenced video link – around 22:30 – but this is an incredible video to watch, please do… It’s a window into the Aspie world. He is super entertaining – I promise!]

I did not realise how bad it was until I met someone in a store after Covid and they were chatting as if we were BFF’s. I know I know her face, him I’m not so sure – the young boy – I don’t have any “close friends” that have a son of that age… But I KNOW her. She kinda looks like a relative in the Mc Pherson clan – but she has a younger baby girl and she’s single – so not her. This goes on for a good 10 minutes… keeping things light – letting her do the talking… nothing jumps out… and then he mentions the name of their pet. Lightning bolts strike – She was my neighbour where Colin and I lived before we divorced and I moved closer to work – for a good FOURTEEN YEARS!!!

I knew they had an older daughter, who was not present, but I didn’t know about the son as we didn’t really keep contact after I moved. If I was at the old house for some reason and they happened to be outside, we had a quick chat. However, a second child was never mentioned.

I walked away from that discussion – DUMBFOUNDED! It’s THAT bad? Had I seen her in her driveway, young son or not – I would have immediately recognised her. She is “where she belongs”.

Face blindess goes hand-in-hand with autism and also runs on a spectrum where some don’t even recognise themselves in a mirror and no people at all – bar using other markers beyond “facial recogniton”. 

Me – if I have context and we have interacted a lot or you have something about you that I can “package” with your name – I would probably know who you are, if we interact relatively regularly.

Indicators of face blindness

1. You may have found this exercise exhausting (a very high level “test” seeing if you can match the person in the photo with another different photo that may be the same person – not scientific, but it makes one think of what we take for granted everyday) * Italics my addition
2. You often think you know people when you actually don’t.
3. You are greeted by people and have no idea who they are.
4. You can only describe people by their clothes and hair colour.
5. In films, you sometimes fail to distinguish between different characters.
6. When a close friend changed their hair style or grew/shaved a beard, you couldn’t recognise them. (Looking at you, Kari – I regularly wonder when this ‘new lady’ started working at our company when I glimpse you from the corner of my eye in the kitchen and you’ve changed your haircolour or style, despite us working together for more than 10 years – but you know that!)
7. When you mix with a new group of people (school, work, clubs, etc), it takes a long time before you can recognise each individual.
8. Your friends may be people that are easy for you to recognise eg they have distinctive clothes, accent or mannerisms.
9. You may have a distinctive “look” of your own (I have had a distinctive hairstyle for 30 years!), thinking that it will help others recognise you more easily.
10. You can only recognise people when they’re where you usually see them.
11. You find it hard to spot your friends in a crowd eg clubs, parties, conferences, playgrounds…
12. You find it easier to communicate by phone, email and social media.
13. You might find navigation difficult, for example remembering a sequence of directions or recognising where you are/what direction you are going.
14. Some face blind people find it hard to work out what is left or right.
15. You’re not famous, but lots more people recognise you than you can recognise in return.
16. If you see a person in two different places (eg a neighbour works in your company) you might think of them as two different people (I once bumped into a housemate when walking back from a social group and assumed they were someone I’d met there. “I didn’t know you lived around here…” I said as we neared our shared house!)
17. You might find role-playing exercises stressful – suddenly everyone is no longer acting like you’re used to and you can’t recognise them!
18. You recognise people mostly by their voice, their mannerisms, their walk, by what they talk about…
19. Some people can’t recognise their own face in photos or in a mirror.

Source for above – an informal website created by someone with an interest and provides some tips and links to more formal documentation. I chose to include this because it explains the challenges and present it in a relatable language.

Ok, so this cruise was a challenge for me because here suddenly there was a big expedition team, my fellow “Weddell Seals” and the friends I’ve made on the journey so far.

All people expecting me to know them when I run into them on the ship. I got caught out a few times – you know who you are.

Some were easier than others – Joaquin with his dreads and laidback vibe, Lancy – just being Lancy, Molly with her distinctive plaits (the times I interacted with her anyways) and Dom (on the ship).

There was this big yellow scary creature that always kinda “ran the landings” managing getting people on/off the zodiacs – sometimes wearing some weird kitty hat – he intimidated the daylights out of me – I was so scared I was going to get flustered and NOT disembark the zodiac in the “Direction of the driver” I don’t even know left from right without looking at my hands for pete’s sake – see above! It definately was “all me”. I’m sure no-one else exprienced it that way, but yeah getting on/off the zodiac at a landing the first few days was a gauntlet in itself. 

And then halfway through the cruise in a completely unrelated discussion, someone said “I don’t get how Dom can stand, sometimes hip height, in that cold water for hours managing the Zodiac landings” And I’m like… “WHAT – THAT’S DOM???” Looking back at the expedition team, it could not have been anyone else with his stature – but I just did NOT make the connection at all.

Then there were the four South-American guys – I know there are more, but I had a way of distinguishing them. These four I kinda grouped in this generic bundle.

After day two with Luis manning my Biosecurity vacuum station – a chat about cameras and his role as Expedition Photographer, there was context. I also noted that he was the one with dark hair, dark eyes but NO facial hair – so he became D’artagnan in my little world.

The other three – dark hair, dark eyes and facial hair – The Three Musketeers.

There was some “characters” in the team recognizable by their roles or in one case the way he somehow ALWAYS seemed to weave a particular sentance into ANY conversation/lecture – “Born and raised in Santiago, but later moved to Puerto Natales” – guy.

It took me a while to figure out that “Manbun”-guy was actually one of the musketeers and the only one with long hair, even if he wore it up – mostly.

Then there was “History” guy – the one with an interesting sense of humour. The day of the Orne Harbour landing we chatted after a lecture about some of his interests – there was some serious overlaps in that ‘venn-diagram’.. I impulsively promised “History” guy an electronic copy of something we discussed – and immediately after the conversation regretted it – not because I did not want to give it to him.. Realization dawned – He’s one of the musketeers – How am I going to know which one to give the flashdrive to? What if I give it to the wrong musketeer and he thinks I’m crazy. Why did you even DO that?

And then there was “Puss in boots” guy – the cocky one from the Jacket incident – up to that point I don’t think I’ve run into him again.

Spoiler alert – It turns out they are ALL THE SAME PERSON! The same musketeer!

I only learned to ‘recognize’ the second musketeer the morning of the Falklands Port Stanley excursion. I think it was Zoe that was working with him to get the group that signed up for the Volunteer Point excursion out onto the tender and deliver us to the guides waiting on shore. At some point she said.. “Jeah – just follow the guy with the goofy grin.” And the smile he gave her in response to that comment .. cemented it. “Goofy Grin” got context. He later got a name and at least if I see/hear his name I know who they are referring to.

The third musketeer remains a mystery – I now recognize him, if only by process of elimination at first. I won’t put my “Description” of him here – I don’t know him or if my impression is on-point. From social media posts linked to “History”-guy (who I have kept contact with) I know his instagram handle and THAT is who he will be to me – unless at some point I receive more information.

The fact that everyone in the expediton team looked completely different on the ship in their black shirts or sometimes – as my friend (who you’ll meet later – Derek) always said… “Their best barrista blue shirts” and whatever else they wore – mostly the black and blue uniforms… and then the various forms of “Outdoor” attire and paraphenalia – including beanies and different goggles/protective eyewear – did NOT exactly help tying the “on the ship” person to the “in the zodiac or during the landing” person.

When I discussed this with a baffled Lancy during my February trip the next year – he shook his head and “Helpfully” stated – Linda, I don’t understand – we all wear nametags! *Face palm* And thank you Lancy, for being well, Lancy 😛

OK – on to “Extras”

There is an impression that persons on the spectrum see other people as objects. That sounds seriously callous and I thought – ghee that’s weird, how would someone do that? Until at some point I realised that it aligns with my “Extras” situation.

I always got told – even by my immediate family that I live in my own little bubble and I have my own little circle and anyone beyond that pretty much dont exist as far as I’m concerned. Yikes!

It’s not exactly that premeditated – I interact with the people I know and need to for various reasons and some are closer than others. The rest is .. well “Extras”… like in a movie.. they are important, living their own lives, central characters in their own stories, they are just not for some reason (currently) important in MY movie. Some get a “Speaking” role and becomes “Man with dog”, “Engineer that has some special skill”, “Neighour person that lives below me and drives the small white car” – I would not recogize her or her car outside my complex.

And unfortunately – as per above- the name is usually the last piece of the puzzle.

Lastly, because I have to have something “Antarctica” themed… and its kinda relevant

11 November 2022

The first morning in Antarctic Peninsula dawned with snow on my balcony. It was magical.

This morning we did our first (of two) Continental landings. There are a few landing sites on the Antarctic Peninsula Expedition Cruising Circuit that afford landings on the actual Antarctic Continent (the Peninsula itself) instead of the islands surrounding the Peninsula. Orne Harbour is one of these sites.

We were warned not to even contemplate sliding down the hill as the Expedition team marked out a zigzag path up the hill, around a peak and further up to the lowest reach of the Chinstrap Penguin colony.

It felt like my “Personal Mount Everest”…

We went all the way…. to see the three chinstrap penguins that represent the bottom of this death defying colony.

And ornithologist Lancy (also affectionately known as Professor Penguin) stood there BEAMING – so proud of these little guys! And honestly this Meme came to mind….

I’m sorry Lancy, I have to. But I’m posting this with your permission… LOL and thanks for “understanding”…

The weather turned nasty and we made a careful, yet hasty retreat back to the ship.

The afternoon we had to change plans due to the weather (Whiteout!). Cuverville Island was not going to happen. Not sure if this ended up being plan I,J or perhaps M, but Yibo arranged a spectacular Zodiac Ice Cruise in Wilhelmina bay.

I felt priviledged as we were new teammember Molly’s first Hurtigruten Zodiac Ice Cruise passengers, so it was a new experience all round!

Inbetween all of this Zoe arranged a perplexing Antarctic Scavenger Hunt around the ship. What I remember from that exercise is the measurements of the “Blue Whale” is if you look up, infront of Reception, I think.. It may be closer to the coffee area and Expedition Desk, but look up in that general area – hidden in plain sight. The relative lenghts of various whales are marked out from a starting point close to the Whale Table – walking in the direction of Reception – if you look up – you will see the markers. I think there are still one or two of those clues I have never found.

Following the evening briefing we dropped off the campers – pretending to watch them go off with some grace, I’ll admit I was jealous. [But I did get my chance to join the “I camped in Antarctica ” Club the next year *happy penguin dance* ]

So this little penguin went to bed – warm and snug in cabin 805!

10 November 2022

Sooo feeling better then… apparently. This morning I was up running around taking pictures of a sleeping ship.

First sighting of land… this is supposed to be Day 2 of Drake crossing! The weather and ocean conditions were so good (despite my sea sickness in apparent glass-like Drake Passage) that we are ahead of schedule !!!

Attended first in-person lecture this morning – Smartphone photography by Expedition Team Photographer Luis.

Followed shortly by the Kayaking briefing – my hat still in the ring for a kayaking opportunity.

Followed by… and not a moment too soon… Penguins of the world by Lancy. Just before our first landing featuring Gentoo and Chinstrap penguin sightings.

Lunch with a very apprehensive Nancy. They are the first boat group to go ashore – shortly after lunch. Nancy has never been on a zodiac. Way to go for a first.. in Antarctica! She loved it – went from pretty much “I might seriously end up not doing any landings that involve getting into that thing!” to voluteering for “extra credit” – Joining the scientists and going out on “the science boat” (zodiac) to collect samples etc.

So group by group we had our first landing – not continental landing – that would be tomorrow.. but landing on the South Shetland Island Group – Half Moon Island.

We landed on a pebble beach – under the watchful eye of some Gentoo penguins. Remnants of an old wooden boat – origin unknown.

Walked up – following cones and flags put out by the expedition team to mark safe exploration areas.

Saw some Chinstrap penguins and looking back to the other side of the ridge – a lone Weddell seal keeping watch over a meeting between a Gentoo and Chinstrap. Can’t help but wonder what that inter-species discussion was all about…

Returned to the ship – super excited…

The evening was filled with supper and the information session for the next day continental landing at Orne Harbour – most importantly – walk carefully on the switch-back and DONT even think of sliding down… accidently or accidently-on-purpose.

9 November 2022

I woke up woozy around 4am. This was weird.

Having packed the most important stuff carry-on I literally shoved my unopened case under the bed – tomorrow’s problem. I have two days at sea to unpack.

Now clearly the tablets I had taken was not doing its thing and I was wondering if the dried ginger I packed might be helpful. Only problem is, it is somewhere in my suitcase under the bed.

I got up.. dragged it out. I had to remove the luggage glove after actually concentrating to ensure that I have the correct combination to open the lock…. . Luggage glove removed I still had to unlock the case with yet another combination lock…

Eventually I opened the case on the floor between the bed and the cupboard. HUUUUUUGE mistake as I was now sitting on my haunches balancing over the case… with my head hanging down trying to find stuff and also kind of sorting stuff to go into cupboards as I was afraid I was not going to get the case shut after this little exercise.

I found the ginger and took some… it did not help. Nor did the water next to my bed. Too stubborn to give up I packed little heaps of stuff all over the floor and bed… closed and shoved the case under the bed.

[Lesson learned – Packing Cubes. For the next trip I grouped items in packing cubes with little paper identifyers e.g. “T-Shirts & Fleece”, “Leggings”, “Beanies & Gloves” on top of items – can view through the mesh. Also unpack FIRST thing when get to cabin, just in case things get rough early in the cruise – which is easy – transfer packing cubes from suitcase to drawers/shelves.]

The damage was done… I was super sick. Nothing stayed in for more than a few minutes – at best. I shoved little heaps of stuff into the drawers in between bathroom visits and collapsing on the bed.

I remember sitting on the bathroom floor staring at my feet and the wall for what my watch says was two hours. Or just hanging onto the bathroom sink half lying on my arms trying to breathe. At some point lying on the bed thinking.. they’re going to find you here in your pj’s – dead… surrounded by little heaps of stuff on the floor and on the bed.

I eventually did get up and managed to shower and dress into something respectable somewhere in the morning before lying down again. I remember the captain over the PA system saying something about it being a very calm crossing… 3 meter waves. Really, really? So what the hell is wrong with me? At least I managed to watch most of the mandatory lectures streamed to the TV.

Somewhere I called Reception to ask about alternative meds. They said I can come fetch some on Deck 6. There were no baggies in the cabin and none I could think of between my cabin and Reception. Later on I saw them mostly situated around the Atrium Area. I thought.. “I can barely make it from the bed to the bathroom, but if you want me to come down to Reception.. it’s on you.”

I did somehow make it there… there is a lift relatively close to my cabin and it is was available immediately. It is about 10m from the lift to Reception desk. The lady gave me alternative medicine, which I immediately took. Also one for 12 hours later.

She also directed me to the restaurant – which was just closing up after either lunch or breakfast, I can’t be sure. Apples – green apples. The request was met with sympathetic smiles from the restaurant staff – they clearly know about the green apples. They gave me a bowl and few to take to the cabin.

[Lesson learned – I collected a bowl of three green apples from the restaurant staff at the earliest opportunity after boarding the next cruise.]

Within about an hour and half I felt much better. I think this was the day we were supposed to vacuum the gear. I remember actually making that trip although I did not have much to vacuum, everything was new. But you had to show up at the assigned ‘vacuum station’ to confirm that you ‘attended’ the mandatory lecture regarding IAATO requirements.

Then there was the whale incident. I had cleaned my memory cards in preparation for the trip and put them all in one place. Being on meds and not really being prepared and just being me… there came an announcement over the PA… whales have been sighted. I grabbed my little Sony camera – cellphone being on charge – and moved to Deck 10 at the stern as fast as my still wobbly body would allow… pumped up on adrenaline. It’s not really whale time yet, so who knows if I’ll actually get another chance to see a whale on this trip.

I got some really nice pictures… blows… the top of the body.. fins… correction WOULD have got some nice pictures had there actually been a memory card in the camera. Enough said.. needless to say.. next time.. the camera is not closed up before ensuring that there is an operational card in there.

As for the rest, I kept a low profile and took my new meds. Things were looking up.

8 November 2022 – Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel

After wide-eyedly entering the ship… Gangplank is on Deck 4, I made my way up the closest set of stairs to Deck 8.

The atrium with its LCD panels was amazing, but the glass lifts that look out on it was busy and there were lines. Gawking would have to wait until a ‘sea day’.

The keycard gained entry to Cabin 805… on the second try. From now on I would just have to try it at least twice – virtually every time. Only the one side of the card actually opened the door… I for the life of me cannot (even now) remember if it is the side with the writing on.. or the other one.

Backpack put down… it was time to get the ‘admin’ out of the way.

I think I did the credit card registration at reception first as I thought most would go for the jackets first… or the boots.

Then on to get the Red Jacket as it’s at the lecture hall on the same deck (Deck 6) as Reception. I think it was the lecture hall – I just remember tables and heaps of jackets and people trying on jackets.

The line was not very long at that point and I was second in line. I walked up to the table and shrugged – I have no idea what size jacket would work. Rumour has it that the team is quite good at sizing up the guests and recommending appropriate sizes. However, the gentleman sitting in front of me (chin on steepled hands) after looking at me for a few seconds confidently decided on a “Small”. Knowing that I was wearing a Large ladies HH fleece and padded jacket and that I have quite broad shoulders I was extremely sceptical… my words… “God, you’re optimistic”

He insisted on the small and I said I’d try it just to humour him, but there’s no way in hell…

I have no idea what happened after that… but the next moment he was fixing the velcro around my wrists, zipping up the jacket and instructing me to flex my arms – just to prove.. what he was saying… “Perfect”… Heaven knows, I so much wanted him to be wrong.. just to get that selfsatified smile off his face. But he was right.. it was perfect, soooooooo not what I would have chosen.

“Ok.. I would not have picked a small, but you clearly know what you are doing…” I had to admit defeat… I got a knowing “I’ve been doing this for a while” response…. All righty then…. this is going to be an interesting trip.

Next – Boots at the Expedition Launch – Deck 3. Decked out (excuse the pun) in the socks/pants that you will be wearing during landings to ensure a comfortable fit.

The boots in my shoe size were too tight around my ‘shall we say generous” calves. A problem I regularly have with knee-high boots. The boots with adjustable calve area is not available in my size. Luckily one size up was a compromise – thicker socks will prevent movement in the boot, but at least the calves were a snug, but bearable fit.

Back to Cabin 805 to deposit kit – admin almost done…

All that’s left is the safety demonstration – in our case also on Deck 6. Demonstration of getting into the full body survival suit – looked very complicated. I guess adrenaline or complete panic will kick in at the appropriate moments… It comes wrapped in a foil packet… my only question – How easy is it to remove from the packaging.. I can see myself struggling for 20 minutes to open the package – at that point procedure of getting into the suite is moot if I can’t get the package open. Got assurance that apparently it’s easy to open – Phew! And apparrently I was not the only one with that concern..

Then it was off to Deck 10 to wave goodbye to Sister Ship MS FN and Ushuaia as we departed into the Beagle Channel – off to Antarctica – two days of Drake crossing looming large.

I took my anti-seasickness meds before we departed – having never been a minute seasick in my life. I’ve done a few ocean cruises and day trips – no problem. OK – not Drake Passage, but still I had no inkling of what was to come around 4am when we hit open water…

Supper was uneventful. We were scheduled for supper as “Boat Groups” – one night only. I think the idea was for the groups to meet and get to know each other before the landings start. I dont think it worked as intended – not for me anyways.. the seatings overlapped and I ended up chatting with Yvonne and Carol – definately not in my group. After supper we chatted till quite late in their cabin before going off to sleep.

8 November 2022 – Buenos Aires to Ushuaia and embarkation

And so the day finally arrived – flight to Ushuaia. The last leg of travel before we board the MS Roald Amundsen for our 14 day trip.

Breakfast was a hurried affair before we boarded the bus to the airport.

We weren’t sure what to expect of the flight (logistics wise), but we got our boarding passes (I think) before we got onto the bus and beyond a relatively ‘low drama’ security check we were at the gate waiting to board. Waterbottles and other stuff that is normally frowned upon, depending on the official’s current mood, passed through without so much as the blink of an eye.

The flight was uneventful, bar some people not having their Embarkation forms completed and ready for collection, despite clear instructions the day before.

The last few minutes had breathtaking scenes over snow-capped mountains and beautiful glacier valleys. My high school Geography teacher came to mind… the difference between valleys carved by Glaciers – U shaped and valleys carved by rivers – V shaped.

Cute small little airport – waiting for the luggage – giggling about the few pieces that were marked “extra heavy” – how’s that for ‘luggage-shaming’ on a flight with very specific weight restrictions?

Luggage delivered to the lines of other Hurtigruten destined items we boarded our designated busses for a quick drive through the ‘main road’ of town. Then we joined the line of other busses parked just outside the port. Yes – where the daytrip tour operator offices are and the infamous Fin del Mundo sign.

We received our welcome packs with our cruise cards, lanyards and boat group patches. Much excitement to find out where you were assigned and if you know anyone else in your group. I was the only Weddell Seal amoungst our impromtu gang and definately wanted to remain a Weddell seal. Some group re-assignment requests were on the cards elsewhere.

We had about 50 minutes ‘free time’ before we had to meet at the bus. After some pictures at “The Sign” I headed out in search of a frigde magnet as I did not know what shopping opportunies would be available upon return. A quick stop at the Information Centre resulted in a “Stamped” Ushuaia End of the World ‘certificate’, but no souvenirs on offer.

I got directions to a shop one block up in the main street and dashed there to at least get a magnet.

Magnet in hand,I was ready to start the adventure…  Back to the bus!

And off we went… onto the pier. Nothing really prepares you for the moment you see the MS Roald Amundsen up close. The culmination of months of planning, medical forms to agnonise and specualte about, the Covid Test that stands between you and the white continent…. and now it is real!

Monday 7 November 2022

Up early my AirBnB hostess Gri and I had just confirmed a San Telmo testing location when Yvonne Facebook msg’ed me from Hotel Madero – they are waiting for the Hurtigruten testing to take place at the Hotel this morning.

Communication up to this point indicated that testing would take place the afternoon/early evening, so this was news that changed everthing.

I decided to walk over to the hotel and do the Hurtigruten sanctioned test, then it’s done and out the way. Plus as they arranged it someone on the team would probably speak english, which would help. Also – it is part of shipboard account, so no immediate need for Argentinian Pesos.

At the hotel there was a boardroom set up with tables, confectionary and coffee/tea/juice. A local tour rep explained the procedure for preparations relating to the transfer to Ushuaia and of course… THE TEST.

Bob and Yvonne I had met via the Facebook Group, so they were ‘familiar faces’ and then also met Anne, Carol x 2 and Nancy that morning. We all passed the Covid Test… Phew!

Elated that hurdle was crossed we celebrated with coffee and went our seperate ways into Buenos Aires – Bob to the Hard Rock Cafe and me to find Buqebus terminal to purchase my tickets for Colonia De Sacremento Day Trip when I return.

I actually passed Hard Rock Cafe en-route to the terminal… took a few pictures – Messi Burger looked like it could be a messy experience.. kinda like eating a Steers burger – loads of napkins requried. Cute cat t-shirts.

I walked back past the Plaza de Mayo and tried in vain to withdraw Pesos. Somehow I got the PIN to my CashPassport messed up and the card got locked. I ended up exchanging some USD at the hotel – desperate times… desperate measures.

Went back to the AirBnB and re-arranged the luggage – suitcases out at 10pm and me having an evening tour meant I would not see my case again after 18:00 until I reach Ushuaia the next day. Final weight – 22.95kg – juuuuuust short of the 23kg max allowance – Phew (again!)

Severly underestimated the distance to the hotel and the heat. I looked a mess when I reached Hotel Madero for check-in – having dragged my luggage accross the cobble stones from San-Telmo. Just in time to put backpack in room, suitcase out before being collected for my evening tour.

Evening tour combined visits to Plaza de Mayo, Recoleta – the little church next to the cemetary and a drive through Palermo. We stopped at a food market for some empanadas. It was beautiful and very informative. Tour included two fellow Hurtigruten Antarctica passagers – due to board the sister ship a few days later and another lady that was due to board a different Antarctica cruise later that week. They were still wearing masks – not taking any chances with their upcoming Covid tests.

I got back from the tour around 22:00 and decided to get an ice-cream from the Burger-king like place close to the hotel. Learned my big lesson re Argentinian Ice-cream there.. although I did not realise it until much later. It does not set – I ended up with the entire ice-cream on my jacket. When I lifted the cone it just imploded onto my hand. Luckily I had some tissues and water with me and could attempt to kind of clean up before I entered the foyer of Hotel Madero looking like a 3 year old who had an ice-cream tragedy.

Later I would learn that even the tub of ice-cream I purchased at the supermarket did not set in the freezer, despite the ice cubes right next to it freezing up. Weird, but don’t say you weren’t warned.

Kind of cleaned up (some further effort in the bathroom) and devices charging – two alarms set – I managed to get some sleep before early transfer to Ushuaia.

Sat 5/Sun 6 November 2022 – Cape Town – Istanbul – (Sao Paulo) – Buenos Aires

Not two days that I would neccesarily want to ever relive in my life.

Saturday morning was a blur – haircut, collecting a car-cover and N-95 Masks from Take-a-lot pickup point, having car washed (so that paint is not scratched by car-cover). Trying unsucessfully to disconnect the car battery and put over cover.

Gave up on vehicle related matters and tried to finalise packing. Completely overwhelmed I eventually ran to meet the airport transfer (15 minutes late – sooooorrrrrryyyyyyy) with a case and multiple bags that needed to be consolidated into case and carry-on backpack before check-in.

Found a quiet place at the airport and somehow managed to consolidate everything into the case and backpack keeping in mind that some items needed to be with me (Carry-on) in case the suitcase does not arrive with me in Buenos Aires. I need the minimum for the cruise… all electronics and chargers, one full set of thermal base layer, thermal socks, fleece, down jacket, beanie, gloves, medication. And then the usual – track pants, t-shirt, spare basics x 2.

I was dead tired by the time I checked in and declared all electronics at customs. There was not much time left after security and immigration – the new ‘self service station’ not registering my fingerprint – I see they abandoned using it by the time I returned.

System issues at Vodacom meant I had to call the call centre while standing in line to board to activate SMS roamer – fun times. The freaken mask was not helping.

A full flight to Istanbul. I ended up next to a Russian sailor returning home after his ship docked in Cape Town. That piece of information was the extent of communication for the trip.

Arriving at Istanbul there was little time to take in the new airport – rushed through immigration to find the Covid Testing Centre. The plan – get a PCR test and get it out of the way before boarding for Buenos Aires. At that point Hurtigruten still allowed lab certified tests or the test at the hotel arranged by them.

Nope.. the PCR test system was down. I can get an antigen test, but that would not be valid for the timeframe. So much for that. Back through immigration.

First impressions – I don’t like the “new” Istanbul Airport. I could not find the lounge. I could not get my international e-sim card to activate – was counting on lounge wifi and coffee.

When our Gate was published it was at the back of beyond. I registered at a kiosk for a small complimentary wifi window and got the e-sim to activate while in line for boarding.

Another full flight. And a flight full of Russians. Google translate worked quite hard – the gentleman next to me had a lot to say. It turned out to be an interesting flight.

Arrived late Sunday night at Buenos Aires EZE and lines at immigration were long. Life was back to Pre-Covid – no social distancing. A relief but not if you have a pre-boarding Covid test looming in the not too distant future.

Pre-paid Taxi at the kiosk was more expensive than I expected and the credit card facilities did not work – luckily I had USD.

By the time I arrived at the AirBnB it was just after 1 am Monday. The lady was super nice. Eventually lying in bed I just could not fall asleep… the hectic past two days, the Covid Test and re-arranging the (hopefully under 23kg) suitcase once again loomed large.

OK, spoiler alert – going to make myself extremely unpopular now, but I have to get this off my chest.

Hurtigruten at some point made wearing medical grade masks mandatory when in public areas – that very specific requirement has since disappeared from the webpage – with no further mention of passenger mask requirement, save embarking/disembarking at US ports.

The mask-thing is currently ‘front-and centre’ as some other cruises have in the last three days brought back the mask requirement during current sailings, providing stacks of disposable masks in cabins for passengers to use. Much to the surprise/dismay of the passengers who was not planning on wearing a mask during their cruise.

I have a personal issue with disposable masks, mostly because they are not recycled or properly disposed of (elastics cut so animals do not get inadvertently caught-up in them) etc. Like recycling in general, it’s your choice, but this is just me…. and if everyone did their bit… just saying.

I could not understand how Hurtigruten claiming to be so VERY GREEN, shunning single use plastics on their ships etc… could be OK with disposable masks and if they provided a way for passengers to ‘dispose’ of said masks.. which I suppose they do as every cabin apparently have separate waste paper baskets where you can put recyclable material – as per youtube cabin reviews I’ve seen.

The profile of the passengers choosing to do the Antarctic cruise inveriably includes your basic “Tree-hugging-Green-Peace-Anti-plastic straw” babies. I’m generalising, but it is what they are trying to accomplish that post-tour you will become a “Save the ocean – Save the whales” disciple to try to keep this area as pristine as we humans possibly can. They are very open that this is their mission and the outcome they are hoping for – preaching to the choir?

Although I took note of the medical grade mask requirement and reluctantly ‘wishlisted’ a pack on our local go-to online store I was keeping an eye on the mask requirements and was not planning on purchasing some if I could avoid it. A few washable cloth masks will find its way into the case – possibly (ok, probably) even for use during the trip to Argentina – we still have to do an antigen test prior to boarding.

Plus Argentina currently still have mandatory masks in public places and public transport, which as I understand means it’s mandatory masks on the plane to Argentina, if I remember the rule correctly – mandatory public masks at destination = mandatory masks on the plane on the way there.

With what is going on elsewhere this week I was wondering if/when the mask topic is going to surface relating our cruises.

This morning on the forum someone (not on our specific sailing) asked if Hurtigruten is going to provide fresh masks daily, should passengers choose to wear them. One – no? Else they would not have specified what type of mask you needed to bring with you, when it was mandatory. Two – I guess if you do need to have a mask – if the worst happens and you do get sick on the ship, they would probably provide something. Why would you wear a disposable mask on an Antarctic cruise if you don’t absolutely have to?

Incidently …. re the ‘cover photo’ of this post – ‘Seahorse clings to a face mask (in Stratoni, Greece)’, by photographer Nicholas Samaras, won an ocean photography award in 2021.