antarctica – Temple & Iceberg Trails: A Journey Through Asperger's

Hallo and Goodbye Ushuaia (again!)

4 March 2024 – Buenos Aires – Ushuaia

OK, before we do anything else, lets address the elephant seal in the room… despite my best intentions, this trip will be another ‘backblog’… and possibly come in as drips and drabs.

Reasons for this are myriad – It’s easiest to blame Swan Hellenic’s new Wifi access policy. The Included “Silver Package” means that Wifi internet access is available, but is extremely limited – one device at a time and only a handful of sites.

You can upgrade and purchase better access, but only for the entire remainder of the voyage (pro-rata per day) at a rate that I could in no way justify. This also meant that the app/website for this blog was blocked.

True, I could have kept notes or a running daily draft on a MS Word document and selected my pictures – saved them in a directory per day – ready to upload once I’m home… but ‘couldda, wouldda shouldda’… I didn’t. I was too busy either taking pictures or participating/watching some guest activity or frankly – eating! Yes, I gained 3 kgs / 6.6 pounds during this 21 day journey – it is what it is.

As for pictures – some serious FOMO was in play. Every moment I was not outside taking pictures I had this nagging feeling that I’m missing opportunities. Despite not being out taking pictures during 100% of daylight hours I still took 16 406 pictures (including some very short videos) with my Nikon camera alone. This is after I have started, but have not made much progress with ‘clean-up’. I have no idea how many pictures on my phone, but the bulk was with the Nikon. Next step going through them once and deleting the obvious duds and “Just missed it – water only” moments.

So, as the T-Shirt says “Start Somewhere” – I actually have the T-Shirt. And as I can no longer claim to “Have a screw loose” (more on that MUCH later) today is probably as good as any.

The morning of 4 March I dutifully showed up for breakfast at around 5 am. A few early birds were already busy with their breakfast. Just as I sat down someone called out my name and commented something in the line of “Hopefully your trip can only get better”…

Chris! Chris and I had a brief discussion via a Swan Hellenic Facebook Group where we established that he and Chris(tine) will be joining this cruise- having done the reverse journey Cape Town to Ushuaia Nov 23 on sister ship SH Diana. He had quite evidently read last night’s blog post… LOL – Admittedly, I was very surprised.

I joined “Chris & Chris” for breakfast excitedly chatting about their previous journey and the run-up to today. I remember thinking that someone looking at us wouldn’t believe that we met mere minutes ago.

Following breakfast we were ushered onto the waiting bus where I recognised the other fellow guest that I had previous knowlegde of – Ash. Ash is friends and collegues with Matthew – the Cruise Norway agent that I booked my Swan Hellenic cruises through. Matthew gave me and Ash a heads up that we will be on the same cruise. Ash joined the cruise with his grandmother Helen – who soon became the beloved “Everybody’s Nan” (She’s getting that tattoo’ed after the cruise).

So the 36 of us – yes, that’s right… 36 pax set out on our adventure.

Before boarding the flight – at the boarding gate – I met Jason (of the argonauts).

On the bus between the Boarding Gate and the plane I met Pamela, who made a bold choice for her first foray into cruising – 21 days from the tip of South America to the tip of South Africa via Antarctica, South Georgia and Tristan da Cunha. Her funky red boots would become an icon of the cruise…

The Red Boots – Ushuaia balcony views – Photo provided by Pamela

At least I knew a few names (and footwear) by the time the plane touched down at Ushuaia.

The flight was uneventful – the views of the snowcapped peaks just before landing, breathtaking, just as I remember it. I did watch out for ‘turbulence’ as a YouTube influencer complained bitterly that this is known to be a VERY BUMBY flight – which I couldn’t really recall from my experiences… and again.. it wasn’t. I apparently miss all the ‘fun’ **eye-roll**

View from plane approaching Ushuaia and Airport Control Tower

We landed at the small cute airport and made sure that our checked luggage make it to the assigned area – ready for transport to SH Vega. Then it was out into the crisp air and Bus No 1 (of 1!)

Here my Antarctica cruise experience similarities ended… For those that ask me – you’ve been there, why would you want to go back… each cruise is different. Spoiler alert – With the exception of a single Brown Bluff Dejavu moment – nothing in this cruise overlapped with my previous trips -experience and itinary wise! Even the Ushuaia experience.

Our local guide took us to a lookout point close to the Ushuaia Aeroclub. From here we could see the harbour and the cruise dock from the “airport side” and take some pictures. I’ve never been here before!

Lookout point views towards the Cruise Port and the DC3-5 Tango 22 plane on the premises.

While walking to the lookout point I met Taylor and Shane – the couple that will conclude their journey with an exchange of wedding vows in South Africa. Taylor – from the pictures it was SOOOO worth it schepping the wedding dress all the way across the USA, South America, Antarctic Peninsula and the South Atlantic! Congratulations guys – the very best of wishes for your future….

Then it was a quick drive along the ‘Main road’ with a warning that MOST shops here close for a siesta between one and two! We’re due at the boat at around two pm… so super limited time for shopping.

The bus stopped at the usual place – close to “The sign” – and no I’m not putting ANOTHER picture of “The sign” in my blog… You can never have too many pictures of icebergs (or King Penguins apparently!), but that adage does not apply to “The sign”, sorry.

I was on a mission for an order of fridge magnets and possibly Havana Lemon Cookies (for a collegue). Local flight weight restrictions meant that I resolved to purchase the cookies in Ushuaia. Off – up the hill to my “Go-To” souvignier shop – trying to make the most of the short timeslot.

What do you know – the souvignier shop accross the road from it is OPEN! It has always been closed during the hours of previous visits. Having checked options in shop 1, I decided to explore options in the ‘new’ shop and fell in love with some magnets. They seemed perfect and after a quick check with the requester (thanks FlexiRoam E-sim) and w/app the decision and purchase was made. Mission accomplished!

I asked the staff about a supermarket to purchase the cookies – they referred me to a small ‘kiosk’ further up the road or a bigger supermarket some blocks away and further up the hill. No cookies at the kiosk and a fruitless search for the supermarket. Eventually I gave up, running out of time and made my way back to the bus and the waiting SH Vega – Sorry Sybren, I tried!

Ushuaia “main road” Hard Rock Cafe (Bob Chadwick!) and SH Vega patiently waiting for us.

Walking up the gangway to the Reception almost felt like going home! I later jokingly admonished Brandon for not keeping his promise of waiting for me at the end of the gangway. He did that with the July Svalbard trip, introducing himself to all the guests as they boarded – today he was otherwise occupied and would quickly come say hi while I was in line – waiting to receive my room keycard – huge hug and then disappear downstairs with things to do and people to see.

“Ms Linda, it IS you!, Putri said she saw your name on the list and hoped it would be you!” Jerome (Day Reception) and Jill (Purser) running the check-in at Reception recognised me from the previous trip. I would only see Putri (Night Reception) much later. I even had the same stateroom attendant – Melanie. She was a little taken aback when she came to introduce herself and I opened the door – LOL. Several staff members accross the vessel would recognise me as the trip got underway – even my drinks order – Coke Zero and coffee with Lactose Free Milk (not together!). I was taken aback as I kind of only expected Brandon to recognise me from Svalbard and then only because we have kept in contact sporadically and he was aware that I would be on the trip.

My anti-seasickness stickers already applied on the bus – forewarned – forearmed – I executed my other strategy of unpacking the bulk of my items as soon as I am in my stateroom and storing the suitcase under the bed. Later the afternoon I took a green apple from the fruit bowl in the Club Lounge and stored it in my fridge – just in case! Bring on the Drake Passage…

Stateroom 618 – “Home away from Home” for the next 21 days!

Enjoying the sunshine and some snacks and drinks at the pool deck – we were welcomed by Brandon and the expedition team. Gustav (Goodstuff) serenaded us as we embarked on our epic journey into the Beagle Channel on our way to the Drake Passage and eventually the Antarctic Peninsula…

We literally sailed off into the sunset with Gustav’s adapted rendition of “Leaving on the SH Vega” – apologies to John Denver… escorted by whale blows and black-browed albatross.

Sunset in the Beagle Channel, Whale (probably Minke) and Black-browed Albatross

Back to reality (and Buenos Aires)

22 November 2022

Woke up to a beautiful, quiet morning – safely at Ushuaia.

This morning after breakfast we were in that no man’s land between vacating the cabin and disembarkation. We sat in the Science Centre waiting for our group to be called to the busses. I remember chatting to Linda L and Derek. Goodbyes were said – not being sure if we would see each other once we’re on the move.

After boarding busses for a (very) short ride to the tourist bus stop just outside the port. Yeah, full circle – back to the infamous Ushuaia sign. We were informed that we have about 75 minutes to wander around in town before being transferred to the airport.

MS Roald Amundsen peeking out behind the Ushuaia sign, docked patiently waiting to welcome the next batch of passengers.

I took the opportunity to browse the shop where I purchased my magnet before the trip and take some pictures before returning to the bus. Some shopped more seriously or grabbed a coffee/delicacy at one of the coffee shops.

Random Ushuaia pics – the quote from the entrance of one of the shops.

Then it was back to the little airport – long check-in lines and even longer security checks. There was some knock-on delay – eventually around 90 minutes. We boarded at 13:09 – I posted this picture of the unusual artwork on the tail while standing in line.

Our pretty Jetsmart Plane taking us to Buenos Aires.

All the while myself (and Google Translate) was in discussion with my Airbnb host around estimated check-in times.

Some were getting worried about flights out of Buenos Aires – despite Hurtigruten strongly advising passengers to NOT book flights out of Buenos Aires on the (even the evening) of disembarkation.

The flight back was uneventful – same stunning Tierra del Fuego views as we departed.

“Fun del Mundo” – Jigsaw pieces and deep U shaped glacier valleys.

Following baggage claim it really felt to me as if this was the watershed moment where the Hurtigruten part of my trip ended. It was, literally, as from here I would find a Taxi to my Airbnb. I was joined by one or two familiar faces Taxi EZE stand – or was that the February trip?

Most of the other passengers who booked a package (including airport transfer and an overnight stay) were jostling to confirm which bus they were allocated to and making their way to said bus. Suddenly we weren’t part of a group anymore – they could have been any random tour group getting on their bus.

I was quite tired by the time I eventually checked into the studio apartment that would be my home for the next few days. Promptly deposited the baggage and went out exploring, looking for a conveniece store to purchase supplies – luckily I found one about three blocks up the same road.

The usual self-catering ‘staples’ in a strange town.

Having purchased some (not necessarily healthy) basics, I settled in for the night.

Some time tomorrow I have to find a “SUBE” Public Transport Card. The plan is return to Recoleta to purchase a rosary at the church (as I promised myself I would during the pre-trip tour). The National Arts Museum is not far from there.. two items checked off the “Amazing Race – Buenos Aires” checklist.

Day after tomorrow – Colonia de Sacremento daytrip – ticket secure in my documents folder.

Goodbye Antarctic Peninsula – Destination Falklands Islands

15 November 2022 – Evening

On a high we said goodbye to the Antarctic Peninsula and set our course to the Falklands Islands.

What I remember from this evening is from the photos. I think I was too overwhelmed to notice anything specific.

Luciano’s Lecture on Deck 10 – Not sure of the title, as by this time all scheduled activities for the day has been re-arranged extensively.

Incredible icebergs on the way back.

And as if to say farewell that evening we were blessed with the most spectacular of sunsets so far in the voyage…

Closed out an incredible day with a warm drink in the Explorer Lounge – nothing turned out as I expected when I woke up this morning – it topped even my wildest dreams – the chocolate sprinkles on my Irish coffee.

Tomorrow and the next day would be “Sea days” and I was more than a little worried about getting sea sick despite the change in medication.

Weddell Sea Ice landing

15 November 2022 – Afternoon.

During Lunch the Captain annouced that they are looking for a spot to “dock” the ship next to the sea ice and each boat group can have their “15 minutes of glory” walking on Shakleton’s Sea Ice in the Weddell sea.

Not accounting for global warming – it was always said that Antarctica doubles in surface during the winter months as sea ice forms as extensions to ice covering the continent.

Seasonal Sea Ice coverage 2021 – Source www.epa.gov/

Although we were surrounded by loose ice floes this was our (seriously once in a lifetime) opportunity to set foot on that mass of sea ice connected to the continent – the very edge of Antarctica.

Everyone stood by the railing and watched the captain “parallel park”/dock this huge vessel next to a relatively straight edged part of the ice. No words!

Then the gangplank went down and the Expedition team checked the surface and thickness of the ice… you could hear a pin drop on that deck… bated breath…

Thumbs up – it’s a go! Cheers and awe! Everyone checked the Hurtigruten App for the timings…

While waiting for our chance to go I walked around the ship taking pictures of the other groups landings…

Watching the other groups and Expedition team on the sea ice.

And a little surpise came into view…

Then it came our turn to go… it was over so quickly…

Weddell Seals (some of us anyways) and Expedition teammembers Dom and Joaquin in yellow.

Face blindness strikes again…

This photo of Luciano during the Sea Ice landing just reminded me again – we had a long conversation there by the gangplank that day. I cannot remember if it was that evening or the next day in the science centre we talked about the landing again and I said to him “Somebody told me that in all their time with Hurtigruten this is the second time they have done such a landing where he was part of the expedition team”… and he looks at me baffled (and I think a little offended)…

“Linda, that was me – I told you that.”

Oops, awkward! At least I remembered the conversation – that counts for something, right?

Sea ice – Weddell Sea close to Snow Hill Island

And then it was time to gather the flags and cones, get everyone aboard and gracefully the captain pushed away from our impromtu dock and we were off to the Falklands.

Antarctic Sound – Tabular icebergs, Sea ice and Emperor Penguin(s)

15 November 2022 – Morning.

Game of the Day – Riddles

Woke up to a beautiful view of Brown Bluff , but it was too windy and the swells too high to safely use the Zodiacs – so no Continental Landing #3 for us.

Disappointed, at 7:25 we waved byes byes to Brown Bluff and headed to the other side of the Peninsula, into the Weddell Sea, to see what we could see – (sorry.. I had to!)

Turns out some beautiful icebergs – and then at 7:45 our first Tabular iceberg, which this area is so famous for.

I was mesmerised as we sailed round James Ross Island in the direction of Snow Hill Island.

You are here – approximately, kinda – The Red Arrow

We sailed on and the sea ice became more prominent.

And then around 11:20 the annoucement came – and EVERYONE migrated en-masse to the bow viewpoint on Deck 7.. someone has spotted an Emperor Penguin!

Just the previous day someone had asked Lancy about seeing Emperors and he stated that it was highly unlikely as they do not usually venture this far north. In fact, this was Lancy’s first Emperor penguin sighting.

[Subsequently I have learned that there is a small colony of Emperors on Snow Hill Island and what we thought were roque travellers could quite possibly belong to that colony. We were practically ‘in their backyard’. This colony has become the focus of some Weddell Sea themed expeditions – the highlight of that itinary.]

This penguin was not extremely co-operative as far was photograph opportunities go.

This day just kept on giving – 11:58 – another ice flow played host to a more lively Emperor!

Everyone was ecstatic and the restaurant at lunch time was a buzz…

Then, during lunch, the captain came on the PA with another annoucement…

Brown Station and Paradise Bay

14 November 2022

I used to collect my paper copy of the “current” next day’s schedule from Reception on my way to the 18:30 “Information for Tomorrow” briefing. It’s usually available around 18:00. Even though the issue with the app has been resolved, I preferred to have a hardcopy to make notes on during the briefing and personal notes on the day.

These “retroactive” blog posts are a combination of info from these printouts, photographs taken with my camera and iphone and facebook posts during the voyage. Sometimes Luis’ video.

My notes on the planned activities:
Brown Station – Continental Landing (#2).
Argentine station not currently manned [Later I would learn that when there are scientists at the station guest landings are not allowed – Manu was there during my February 2023 trip – Hi Manu!]
Expect Gentoos, Blue Eyed Shags/Imperial Shags/Antarctic Cormorants, Snow Petrel and Skua. [They forgot the ever present Snowy Sheathbills, or maybe they’re a given?]

Woke up this morning to this stunning view.

Game of the day: Crossword.

Brown station landing schedule – Weddell Seals from 10am. So spent the morning after breakfast looking out over Paradise Bay from the bow of the ship – Deck 7. But…

Then “Zoom envy” stepped in… it’s a thing and for the first time in this journey I was frustrated with my little Sony’s 30x Zoom.There is a colony of Blue Eyed Shags that nest next on the cliffs just left of Brown Station. They fly to and through ferrying nesting material the entire duration of our stay. I just cannot get a decent picture of nests or flying birds.

Getting a picture of that blue ring around the eye becomes an obsession and will stay with me long after my flight has touched down in Cape Town.

Blue Eyed Shag nesting site – the snow free cliff to the right of the zodiac.

Stages of zoom.. and yeah.. not happening

Confession – prior to this trip my knowlegde of birds can pretty much be summed up as follows:

Then Antarctica and Lancy (and in a way Fritz too) happened and now I notice birds. Not so that I would describe myself as a birder, but I notice them and even start to recognise some. Later in the trip I would even try to photograph some on the Drake Passage.

The actual landing process take longer than anticipated. The expedition team had to excavate an steep impromtu staircase from the docking area up to the base and support ropes have been set up to assist acending the stairs – together with team members stationed along the stairs as additional support.

This also means that going up/down the stairs is pretty much a ‘single file/one way’ affair. Severe bottle neck restricting movement between the landing site and the ship. Much circling of zodiacs.

Various options regarding pathways and viewpoints. I take the easy way out – pretty much straight to the Gentoos.

From there joining the queue waiting to return to the ship. Trying in vain to photograph the parade of Blue Eyed Shags ferrying nesting material to the cliff.

I do get some pictures of a Brown Skua and a pair of Snowy Sheathbills. No Snow Petrals tough.

Thank heaven for heated bathroom floors…

I cannot remember how it came that virtually every piece of kit needed drying, maybe all that standing in the snow waiting.

And the “Information for Tomorrow” lecture held even more surprises - after Brown Station we were scheduled to visit another Brown.. Brown Bluff – Continental landing #3 and extra special for me, as it is a site with incredible geology created by subglacial vulcano eruptions.

Another opportunity to see Adelie (!) and more Gentoo penguins… and if you look up – there’s a possiblity of sighting the nesting Snow Petrels… WOW!