Expedition cruising – Temple & Iceberg Trails: A Journey Through Asperger's

Hallo and Goodbye Ushuaia (again!)

4 March 2024 – Buenos Aires – Ushuaia

OK, before we do anything else, lets address the elephant seal in the room… despite my best intentions, this trip will be another ‘backblog’… and possibly come in as drips and drabs.

Reasons for this are myriad – It’s easiest to blame Swan Hellenic’s new Wifi access policy. The Included “Silver Package” means that Wifi internet access is available, but is extremely limited – one device at a time and only a handful of sites.

You can upgrade and purchase better access, but only for the entire remainder of the voyage (pro-rata per day) at a rate that I could in no way justify. This also meant that the app/website for this blog was blocked.

True, I could have kept notes or a running daily draft on a MS Word document and selected my pictures – saved them in a directory per day – ready to upload once I’m home… but ‘couldda, wouldda shouldda’… I didn’t. I was too busy either taking pictures or participating/watching some guest activity or frankly – eating! Yes, I gained 3 kgs / 6.6 pounds during this 21 day journey – it is what it is.

As for pictures – some serious FOMO was in play. Every moment I was not outside taking pictures I had this nagging feeling that I’m missing opportunities. Despite not being out taking pictures during 100% of daylight hours I still took 16 406 pictures (including some very short videos) with my Nikon camera alone. This is after I have started, but have not made much progress with ‘clean-up’. I have no idea how many pictures on my phone, but the bulk was with the Nikon. Next step going through them once and deleting the obvious duds and “Just missed it – water only” moments.

So, as the T-Shirt says “Start Somewhere” – I actually have the T-Shirt. And as I can no longer claim to “Have a screw loose” (more on that MUCH later) today is probably as good as any.

The morning of 4 March I dutifully showed up for breakfast at around 5 am. A few early birds were already busy with their breakfast. Just as I sat down someone called out my name and commented something in the line of “Hopefully your trip can only get better”…

Chris! Chris and I had a brief discussion via a Swan Hellenic Facebook Group where we established that he and Chris(tine) will be joining this cruise- having done the reverse journey Cape Town to Ushuaia Nov 23 on sister ship SH Diana. He had quite evidently read last night’s blog post… LOL – Admittedly, I was very surprised.

I joined “Chris & Chris” for breakfast excitedly chatting about their previous journey and the run-up to today. I remember thinking that someone looking at us wouldn’t believe that we met mere minutes ago.

Following breakfast we were ushered onto the waiting bus where I recognised the other fellow guest that I had previous knowlegde of – Ash. Ash is friends and collegues with Matthew – the Cruise Norway agent that I booked my Swan Hellenic cruises through. Matthew gave me and Ash a heads up that we will be on the same cruise. Ash joined the cruise with his grandmother Helen – who soon became the beloved “Everybody’s Nan” (She’s getting that tattoo’ed after the cruise).

So the 36 of us – yes, that’s right… 36 pax set out on our adventure.

Before boarding the flight – at the boarding gate – I met Jason (of the argonauts).

On the bus between the Boarding Gate and the plane I met Pamela, who made a bold choice for her first foray into cruising – 21 days from the tip of South America to the tip of South Africa via Antarctica, South Georgia and Tristan da Cunha. Her funky red boots would become an icon of the cruise…

The Red Boots – Ushuaia balcony views – Photo provided by Pamela

At least I knew a few names (and footwear) by the time the plane touched down at Ushuaia.

The flight was uneventful – the views of the snowcapped peaks just before landing, breathtaking, just as I remember it. I did watch out for ‘turbulence’ as a YouTube influencer complained bitterly that this is known to be a VERY BUMBY flight – which I couldn’t really recall from my experiences… and again.. it wasn’t. I apparently miss all the ‘fun’ **eye-roll**

View from plane approaching Ushuaia and Airport Control Tower

We landed at the small cute airport and made sure that our checked luggage make it to the assigned area – ready for transport to SH Vega. Then it was out into the crisp air and Bus No 1 (of 1!)

Here my Antarctica cruise experience similarities ended… For those that ask me – you’ve been there, why would you want to go back… each cruise is different. Spoiler alert – With the exception of a single Brown Bluff Dejavu moment – nothing in this cruise overlapped with my previous trips -experience and itinary wise! Even the Ushuaia experience.

Our local guide took us to a lookout point close to the Ushuaia Aeroclub. From here we could see the harbour and the cruise dock from the “airport side” and take some pictures. I’ve never been here before!

Lookout point views towards the Cruise Port and the DC3-5 Tango 22 plane on the premises.

While walking to the lookout point I met Taylor and Shane – the couple that will conclude their journey with an exchange of wedding vows in South Africa. Taylor – from the pictures it was SOOOO worth it schepping the wedding dress all the way across the USA, South America, Antarctic Peninsula and the South Atlantic! Congratulations guys – the very best of wishes for your future….

Then it was a quick drive along the ‘Main road’ with a warning that MOST shops here close for a siesta between one and two! We’re due at the boat at around two pm… so super limited time for shopping.

The bus stopped at the usual place – close to “The sign” – and no I’m not putting ANOTHER picture of “The sign” in my blog… You can never have too many pictures of icebergs (or King Penguins apparently!), but that adage does not apply to “The sign”, sorry.

I was on a mission for an order of fridge magnets and possibly Havana Lemon Cookies (for a collegue). Local flight weight restrictions meant that I resolved to purchase the cookies in Ushuaia. Off – up the hill to my “Go-To” souvignier shop – trying to make the most of the short timeslot.

What do you know – the souvignier shop accross the road from it is OPEN! It has always been closed during the hours of previous visits. Having checked options in shop 1, I decided to explore options in the ‘new’ shop and fell in love with some magnets. They seemed perfect and after a quick check with the requester (thanks FlexiRoam E-sim) and w/app the decision and purchase was made. Mission accomplished!

I asked the staff about a supermarket to purchase the cookies – they referred me to a small ‘kiosk’ further up the road or a bigger supermarket some blocks away and further up the hill. No cookies at the kiosk and a fruitless search for the supermarket. Eventually I gave up, running out of time and made my way back to the bus and the waiting SH Vega – Sorry Sybren, I tried!

Ushuaia “main road” Hard Rock Cafe (Bob Chadwick!) and SH Vega patiently waiting for us.

Walking up the gangway to the Reception almost felt like going home! I later jokingly admonished Brandon for not keeping his promise of waiting for me at the end of the gangway. He did that with the July Svalbard trip, introducing himself to all the guests as they boarded – today he was otherwise occupied and would quickly come say hi while I was in line – waiting to receive my room keycard – huge hug and then disappear downstairs with things to do and people to see.

“Ms Linda, it IS you!, Putri said she saw your name on the list and hoped it would be you!” Jerome (Day Reception) and Jill (Purser) running the check-in at Reception recognised me from the previous trip. I would only see Putri (Night Reception) much later. I even had the same stateroom attendant – Melanie. She was a little taken aback when she came to introduce herself and I opened the door – LOL. Several staff members accross the vessel would recognise me as the trip got underway – even my drinks order – Coke Zero and coffee with Lactose Free Milk (not together!). I was taken aback as I kind of only expected Brandon to recognise me from Svalbard and then only because we have kept in contact sporadically and he was aware that I would be on the trip.

My anti-seasickness stickers already applied on the bus – forewarned – forearmed – I executed my other strategy of unpacking the bulk of my items as soon as I am in my stateroom and storing the suitcase under the bed. Later the afternoon I took a green apple from the fruit bowl in the Club Lounge and stored it in my fridge – just in case! Bring on the Drake Passage…

Stateroom 618 – “Home away from Home” for the next 21 days!

Enjoying the sunshine and some snacks and drinks at the pool deck – we were welcomed by Brandon and the expedition team. Gustav (Goodstuff) serenaded us as we embarked on our epic journey into the Beagle Channel on our way to the Drake Passage and eventually the Antarctic Peninsula…

We literally sailed off into the sunset with Gustav’s adapted rendition of “Leaving on the SH Vega” – apologies to John Denver… escorted by whale blows and black-browed albatross.

Sunset in the Beagle Channel, Whale (probably Minke) and Black-browed Albatross

Back to reality (and Buenos Aires)

22 November 2022

Woke up to a beautiful, quiet morning – safely at Ushuaia.

This morning after breakfast we were in that no man’s land between vacating the cabin and disembarkation. We sat in the Science Centre waiting for our group to be called to the busses. I remember chatting to Linda L and Derek. Goodbyes were said – not being sure if we would see each other once we’re on the move.

After boarding busses for a (very) short ride to the tourist bus stop just outside the port. Yeah, full circle – back to the infamous Ushuaia sign. We were informed that we have about 75 minutes to wander around in town before being transferred to the airport.

MS Roald Amundsen peeking out behind the Ushuaia sign, docked patiently waiting to welcome the next batch of passengers.

I took the opportunity to browse the shop where I purchased my magnet before the trip and take some pictures before returning to the bus. Some shopped more seriously or grabbed a coffee/delicacy at one of the coffee shops.

Random Ushuaia pics – the quote from the entrance of one of the shops.

Then it was back to the little airport – long check-in lines and even longer security checks. There was some knock-on delay – eventually around 90 minutes. We boarded at 13:09 – I posted this picture of the unusual artwork on the tail while standing in line.

Our pretty Jetsmart Plane taking us to Buenos Aires.

All the while myself (and Google Translate) was in discussion with my Airbnb host around estimated check-in times.

Some were getting worried about flights out of Buenos Aires – despite Hurtigruten strongly advising passengers to NOT book flights out of Buenos Aires on the (even the evening) of disembarkation.

The flight back was uneventful – same stunning Tierra del Fuego views as we departed.

“Fun del Mundo” – Jigsaw pieces and deep U shaped glacier valleys.

Following baggage claim it really felt to me as if this was the watershed moment where the Hurtigruten part of my trip ended. It was, literally, as from here I would find a Taxi to my Airbnb. I was joined by one or two familiar faces Taxi EZE stand – or was that the February trip?

Most of the other passengers who booked a package (including airport transfer and an overnight stay) were jostling to confirm which bus they were allocated to and making their way to said bus. Suddenly we weren’t part of a group anymore – they could have been any random tour group getting on their bus.

I was quite tired by the time I eventually checked into the studio apartment that would be my home for the next few days. Promptly deposited the baggage and went out exploring, looking for a conveniece store to purchase supplies – luckily I found one about three blocks up the same road.

The usual self-catering ‘staples’ in a strange town.

Having purchased some (not necessarily healthy) basics, I settled in for the night.

Some time tomorrow I have to find a “SUBE” Public Transport Card. The plan is return to Recoleta to purchase a rosary at the church (as I promised myself I would during the pre-trip tour). The National Arts Museum is not far from there.. two items checked off the “Amazing Race – Buenos Aires” checklist.

Day after tomorrow – Colonia de Sacremento daytrip – ticket secure in my documents folder.

Saunders Island (minus the Kings), Steeple Jason Island and yet another sunset

21 November 2022

Sunrise over Saunders Island was beautiful – the red coming over the midnight blue mountains – 4:20 am – Don’t ask!

Then the news – “Ladies and Gentlemen, this is Yibo from the bridge”.. Morning landings cancelled as conditions are not condusive to safe zodiac operations.

Weddell seals were only scheduled for 10:15, so I had all intention to go to Luciano’s 9:30 lecture dressed for the landing and head down to the zodiacs from there. At least now I didn’t have to shlep down with muckboots and lifejacket in tow.

Luciano presented a unique angle on Falklands history and the subsequent war under the title “The Falklands War told by a Chilean” – to be more specific – my emphasis – a (millenial!) Chilean.

Only Luciano can almost effortlessly and successfully work “Born and raised in Santiago..moved to Puerto Natales” and various gun-toting “Pirates of the Carribean” clips into a story about a war in the Falklands.

I attended the last part of Nahuel’s “Aboriginal people of Tierra del Fuego”. Unfortunately I missed the first part and most of the context. My take away from the lecture – somehow a single (almost unpronounceable) word originating in Tierra del Fuego have found its way into the world lexicon…

So, without further ado, straight from Tierra del Fuego, Patagonia – today’s word of the day is:

By the results in the now deserted craft room the impromptu “Origami workshop” was a hit!

What to do when you can’t go visit the penguins – make origami birds, of course.

By 12:00 the weather has improved sufficiently for Yibo and the team to execute Plan B! Afternoon landing at a different site, but still Saunders Island. So, group by group we ventured out for our final (and arguably the wettest) wet landing of the journey.

While waiting to board the zodiac the topic of discussion moved to a Quark Expeditions freak fatal zodiac accident at Elephant Island a few days ago (15 November 2022). Two of the eight zodiac occupants did not survive. There was this underlying energy – it almost felt as if the team were extra extra careful today.

Landing team (knee to thigh deep in the water) regrouping after a successful sendoff.

In case you were wondering – Yes, the waterlevel was higher than the top of my muckboots during the landing – luckily the waterproof pants go OVER the boots.

Can you tell the wind was gusting in my face….? Talk about blowing your hair back.

The only catch with Plan B – No King Penguins, nor Imperial Shags at this landing.

There was the choice of walking on the long sandy beach – watching the Gentoo and Magellanic penguins going about their business.

But, please tread carefully and do not disturb the lone moulting elephant seal… He looked like he was having a hard time enough as it is.

Alternatively you could walk inland to a Gentoo colony on a flat piece of land.

Falklands Gentoos – turning my idea of a Gentoo colony on its head.

This was weird to me, it just looked wrong after Antarctica. Last night Lancy said that if they encounter ice free flat ground closer to the sea it’s the property jackpot – in Antarctica they make do with whatever ice free surface they can find. Yes, in theory it makes sense, but again.. can’t hold space for two realities – to me it just looked all kinds of wrong!

But they seem to be quite chill about it – unless there are brown Skuas with apparent boundry issues, invading their personal space!

Various Gentoos and two unwelcome Brown Skuas

Enroute to the Gentoo colony you pass the Magellanic penguins in and around their burrows. Or just enjoying a convenient nearby freshwater stream.

The Magellanic riverfront neighbourhood.

Lastly, you could hike up the ridge (or take the local ‘Land Rover’ shuttle that also doubles as the cash only souvignier shop) to the Black Browed Albatros colony.

Several birds are precariously perched above a steep drop, hunkered down against the fierce wind. Quite a contrast to the West Point colony.

Saunders Island Black Browed Albatros Cliffside Colony

After taking the shuttle option (both ways!) I braved the waves for the final zodiac transfer of the voyage.

Followed by the final “boot wash” and listening to the now familiar computerised voice wishing everyone “Welcome” as Ryno scans in our electronic cards one last time.

Bootwash before you “sign back in” on MS Roald Amundsen.

Somehow I had gotten my days mixed up and in my mind the suitcases had to be out by 10pm tonight. I tried to start packing and after collecting everything on the bed just felt completely overwhelmed – how am I going to fit all of this back in this case? What would I need for tonight and tomorrow? I cant do this, I’m going to the Explorer Lounge, maybe a drink or coffee will spark some inspiration.

When I got to the lounge everyone was chilling, drinking, chatting and I’m wondering.. are you all packed? Am I the only one so disorganized? What’s wrong with you people?

Then while waiting to place my order someone said something about tomorrow being a sea day.. “What? No, tomorrow we fly back to Buenos Aires ” my head is screaming silently. Then light dawns… they’re absolutely right – we have another sea day before we reach Ushuaia – the cases need to be out tomorrow night!

No wonder everyone is chilling… but that still leaves me with a small problem tonight… Now I really need that drink!

[What do you know, I did the EXACT same thing on the February 2023 trip – also prepped to put my case out one night earlier than the rest *face palm* There’s no hope 😛 ]

Yibo had one final treat up his sleeve – making up for missed Kings, maybe?

Steeple Jason island – Black Browed Albatros central

We did a drive by/sail by of Steeple Jason Island – no landings permitted anyways – as this is the largest colony of black browed albatrosses in the world. 70% of the global population breed here. Again.. serious zoom envy struck… and yes – every little spot is an Albatros.

70% of Global Black Browed Albatrosses breed on this island.

After this we were once again treated to a magnificent sunset. Serenaded by Luciano’s flute as he was making final preprations for tonight’s concert with Molly.

Later we would joke that Luciano should hold future concerts here and call it “Sunset unplugged”…

I went back to my cabin to go and create some semblance of order before the concert at 21:15.

Only I got hyperfocussed on packing.. in the zone.. and when I looked up it was 23:00. I completely lost track of time.. did not set an alarm… and missed the concert. Bummer! All was back to normal by the time I got up to the lounge for something to drink before they close shop.

At least I now had a place to sleep tonight and didn’t have to worry about serious packing tomorrow.

I had no idea I was going to get called out for not being there….

Scientific Diving, Saunders Island Build-up and Spectacular Sunset

19 November 2022 – Late afternoon and evening

Heleen hosted an informative lecture on the “Fantastic Fins of the Falklands” – Whales and dolphins around the Falkland area. Unfortunately I did not take any pictures – but did manage to identify some Hourglass Dolphins swimming along the ship the next day. Again – no pictures as my camera was charging in the cabin and we were up in the Explorer Lounge. They were too far to be captured on the cellphone and after I fetched my camera – naturally, they were gone. But I was the one to spot them and that’s super cool!

Hourglass Dolphin (**Lagenorhynchus cruciger**)- picture from Wikipedea

Then it was time for Manu’s “Scientific Diving and Kelp Forests” presentation. He explained what being a scientific diver entails and the work he has been doing as part of a National Geographic team to campain for Peninsula Mitre to be declared a conservation zone.

The National Geographic Peninsula Mitre team…

They succeeded in their mission and the formalities were concluded on 6 December 2022, not long after our cruise. The story also made it into the South American edition of National Geographic.

“The print copies arrived!” Screenshot Manu’s Instagram account.

A particular picture in the Kelp forest with an octopus made such and impression on me that when on the way home, I later saw an octopus stuffed toy in Istanbul Airport, I immediately thought of that pic and Manu.

THE Octopus Pic (Manu’s Instagram) and the extremely rare “Istanbul Airport” Octopus species – clearly the “Top of the heap”!

Sadly the time arrived for the final landing briefing session “Saunders Island” by Lancy.

Everyone was very excited because this landing held the promise of possible King Penguin sightings – only a small percentage of the guests went to Volunteer Point – so this would be their only chance to see King Penguins on this journey.

For me personally, the ‘main attraction’ would be the Imperial Cormorants (Falkland’s Blue eyed Shags) seeing that their Antarctic cousins have eluded my lens so far.

Lancy also elaborated on a study at Falklands that have found that although the Rock Hopper penguins that arrive early and nest at the lower end of the cliffs have the advantage of stronger chicks (less distance to the sea, shorter commute, more regular food runs) the “Late Nesters” who have to make due with available space higher up end up with the higher chick survival rate – the reason? Their Imperial Cormorant neighbours high up act as an alarm system against predator bird attacks, giving them an advantage – to quote Lancy “The early bird catches the worm, the late bird catches the luck!”

It was bittersweet when Lancy closed out his “penguin-starring briefing” with his signature slide…

♥♥ Always be yourself, unless you can be a penguin… then be a penguin! Connect with your inner penguin… ♥♥

The sunset was spectacular – even though the wind almost blew us away.

Sunset from the “Sauna”…

Some MS Roald Amundsen – when the lights go on…

Good night – tomorrow I have a date with some “Blue eyed Shags” and the odd King Penguin.

“Even if you don’t like birds, you’ll fall in love with them tomorrow” – Luciano – West Point Island briefing

19 November 2022

Free from the rules of IAATO, West Point Island landing was for all intents and purposes a daytrip, with optional afternoon tea. Boat groups were ferried to the little wooden pier – a luxury dry landing.

Landing briefing in progress – do’s and don’ts for this particular excursion.

After Yibo’s landing briefing we could leave our life vests with the Expediton Team gear, grab some walking poles, if we wanted to and head off over the hill for the 2 km hike to the Black Browed Albatros Colony on the cliff.

Hiking to the Black Browed Albatros Colony at West Point

For those that did not want to do the hike the hosts also provided a ‘Land Rover Shuttle Service’ to and from the main house.

I chose to do the hike and at some point I was walking with Fritz and he was eagerly counting and re-counting the chicks along the way – there was a possiblity that this little brood exceeded the number of offspring usually associated with this breed. But alas, several re-counts confirmed that this was not the case- they were a ‘common’ little Upland Goose family.

Mom (Brown) and Dad (White) and their ‘standard’ Upland Goose six chicks

Just before we reached the cliff where the Albatros nests are I spotted a bird I recognized from Lancy’s lecture on birds of the Falklands – well he’s kinda hard to miss.. Longtailed Meadowlark.

Longtailed Meadowlark – conspicuous with that red breast.

The line waiting to go down to the colony – numbers controlled as to not stress the birds.

Then we descended down through the tussock grass down to where an absolute magnificent scene awaited us…

Even WITH these red jackets one could get lost here….

Black Browed Albatros so close you could probably touch one… intersperced with a sprinkling of red-eyed Southern Rockhoppers. Fly-overs so low one actually almost hit of the guests… almost…

In all honesty I stood there at the colony from 11:16 to 14:10 and took 1107 photos with my Sony camera alone.. and some with the phone.

It was both breathtaking and overwhelming – the highlight of the Falkland Islands.

Those feet vs these….

On the way back – some more birds…

Austral Thrush adult and juvenile (Thanks for the juvenile identification – Lancy!)

Although there was an invitation to have tea and biscuits with the hosts at the main house – apparently it is very very good – I decided to go back to the ship.

Kings and Vagabonds – Volunteer Point Falklands

18 November 2022 – morning and early afternoon.

This morning, we woke up to a view of Stanley, the capital city of the Falklands.

I booked an optional day tour to Volunteer Point – a farm that is home to King Penguins, Gentoo Penguins, Magellanic Penguins and sheep. As it is quite a drive from Stanley, we were first to take the tender to port and the waiting (ubiquitos) Land Rovers.

Arriving at the dock and the welcoming committee – some Fur seals and a Turkey vulture

Biosecurity reminder – the first thing you see…

and then the road with the red phone box.. leading to, you know, a tavern – what else?

But first visiting ‘greener pastures’ – Land Rovers waiting in the little parking lot next to the Visitors Centre.

As we leave the town the road conditions get progressively worse the closer we get to our destination. Being from Africa it did not really bother me, but the Norwegians who were in the Land Rover with me complained bitterly.

It is a bumby ride – there’s a reason there is a helicopter transport option to this colony.

But first – the “Stone Rivers/Stone Runs” along the way had me in awe. Sadly, no time to stop and explore though, would have to content with pictures from the moving vehicle. Geology geek much?

Stone Runs between Stanley and Volunteer Point site.

And then on the horizon – reminiscent of the Moai of Easter Island – Sheep, King Penguins and then King Penguins AND sheep.

Lancy’s comment re Saunders’ Island – also populated by King Penguins and sheep – The penguins looked a little sleepy – they were probably counting sheep 😛

Long story short – We were “let loose” on the property, with some general rules. Shown where the bathrooms are and packed lunches were available at your assigned Land Rover. We had time to explore and had to return to the Land Rovers at a given time.

Packed Lunch (Sandwich, Snacks, Juice), Water and an “Infopack”

We roamed from sea to rolling hills – various penguins and birds everywhere. Did not see any sheep on the beach, though – just saying.

The invasion of the red jacketed penguins and yes, that beach could have been anywere on the South African “weskus”, they were once connected after all.

En-route to the beach I was subject to inspection by a trio of Kings – but I wasn’t interesting enough and they waddled on. The back one looking more than a little disappointed. ..

Apparently I was not the droid they were looking for!

Out of the surf the vagabond appeared… A Fur Seal male that has been terrorising the colony recently. The previous week he actually ventured on land and attacked the Magellanic penguins that live in their little burrows on the border between the beach and the farmland. Luckily this time he stayed in the surf.

They may be King Penguins, but I’m king of the beach.

Beach Boys… They get around.

Magellanic penguins are not quite as charismatic as their brushtailed cousins.

Magellanic penguins and their not quite so safe burrows.

Everywhere there were King penguin chicks in various stages of loosing their down or in some cases just laying down.

Brown fluff balls – not a hint of the royal colouring to come.

And some adults were nearing the end of this seasons’ catastrophic molt’ – growing a complete new set of feathers and shedding the old ones. A very energy intensive process overlapping with 2-3 weeks of fasting, as they loose their waterproofing until they are able to spread the special waterproofing wax onto their new feathers.

Catastrophic molt – Looks like a bomb exploded in a pillow factory.

Along the way back we stopped at a little windswept farmstead. There were some interesting signs posted and a “Honesty System Bakery Box” or those who felt peckish while the smokers got their fix.

Neither kids, nor pets made an appearance.

After our second free chiropractic session in the Land Rovers we were back at the Visitors Centre. Some decisions had to be made to maximize the very short window to explore Stanley town before the last tender returns to MS Roald Amundsen.

Linda went into “Amazing Race” mode – which is what happens when I have “free time” at a destination – There’s a mental checklist of things to see/do, some mental map of how to get there and then the games begin 😛

Falklands 101, “Expedition team – Talk Show” and making new friends – Sailing to Falklands Islands – Sea Day 2 of 2

17 November 2022

You are here… according to the realtime data streamed to various devices all over the ship – including the big screen TVs in the cabins.

Position 10:53 am en route to the Falklands

This morning there was no major whale pods, but apparently some penguins snuck onboard during the sea ice landing and guests were recruited to help locating them…

Kudos to the Expedition team on this “Game of the day” Super Super Cool!

Today’s Sea Day schedule – Some rock hard choices to be made:

I attended Dom’s lecture on “Geology of the Falklands”. He is very adamant that pictures/recordings during lectures are not allowed and I respect that.

What I do remember from this lecture is that Falklands was intially connected to the “West Coast” of South Africa – hence geology is very similar.

Also the rivers of stones (stone runs) that get pushed up from the ground due to the ground freezing and thawing. In scientific speak “the result of the erosion of particular rock varieties caused by myriad freezing-thawing cycles taking place in periglacial conditions during the last Ice Age”

Stone run at Mount Kent, East Falkland – Source: https://wikishire.co.uk/wiki/Stone_run

Never seen anything like that before – was not included in our High School Geography cirrucilum.

I can’t remember if I actually attended the Cloud Observation or if I had every intention and then life (and ADD) happened.

What I do know is that my imaginary clay penguin did not get an imaginary colourful coat of paint. However, the artists in residence were very busy in the crafts room.

Nancy and co – Clay Workshop Part 2 Paint your clay penguin.

Lancy’s lecture on “Birds of the Falklands Islands ” was (as always) super informative with a sprinkling of Lancy’s signature sense of humour.

Lancy – Birds of the Falklands by numbers…

You know you got it right when your “subject” almost perfectly matches the Tourism Billboard! – Billboard in question.

Find your Caracara -know your Cara Cara !

Macaroni ♥ Southern Rockhopper – Kevin does it “His Way”

Falkland’s odd couple – sharing parental duties – who cares what the neighbours (or scientists) think!

[And it’s lasting longer than some hollywood relationships – The pair was spotted at the same nesting site in the beginning of the 2023 Austral Summer! This would make it their 3rd anniversary ♥]

Time for a bathroom break and to grab a quick coffee before Fritz’s “Wild Falklands” covering everything Falkland not addressed to date – People, plants, animals and places.

Fritz sharing years of experience (and wisdom) in his calm and gentle way.

Regrettably, I did miss Dom’s “Rock Star Corner” workshop – double booking much? However, I did get a chance to see at least some of the exhibits that were still laid out after the session.

And then it was time to “Meet the Expedition Team”. “Talk Show” in the Explorer’s Lounge with Zoe interviewing Luciano, Heleen and Teal.

This was so funny and special. Thank you for participating in this you guys. Many things were said, confessions made, skeletons, dreams and hopes revealed.

Blushing “Puss in Boots” talks himself into a corner….

After dinner I took some pictures of the sunset in the blustering wind and ran into a brave Scotsman who tried to take advantage of a clear night sky to see the “Southern Cross”. And so I met new friend Derek. We started chatting and next thing we know it was almost midnight and we were still on Deck 11. We decided something warm(ish) was called for – before the Explorer Lounge closes for the night. I had a coffee/hot chocolate and mr Scotsman had a whiskey (hold the ice!).

Probably not the time to say that tomorrow I need to be up and ready bright and early to catch the first tender to Stanley. I (in my naivety) was still under the impression that this “Antarctica-thing” was going to be a “once in a lifetime” experience, so I booked a guaranteed King Penguin colony excursion to Volunteer Point. I was not going to leave a possible King Penguin sighting to chance.

A WHALE of a time sailing to Falklands Islands – Sea Day 1 of 2

16 November 2022

You are here… according to the realtime data streamed to various devices all over the ship – including the big screen TVs in the cabins.

Position 9:05 am en route to the Falklands

This morning breakfast was ‘interrupted’ by a myriad of puffs visible from the panoramic windows of the Aune restaurant.

General excitement and disbelief. Me not wanting to miss a thing, but also dying to be a fly on the wall up at the Whale Sensus station on the Bridge….

We were surrounded by a 200+ pod of Fin and Sei whales. This was highly irregular and the scientists went well …whale.

Puffs and more puffs and puffs in the distance…

Was lucky enough to get this pic of two backs – one with dorsal fin, the further dorsal just just visible.

Today’s jam-packed Sea Day schedule:

Schedule for 16 November 22 – as collected from Reception after 18:00 the previous evening.

First up was Luciano’s lecture on Shackleton’s Imperial Transatlantic Expedition. He had some interesting parallels between Shackleton’s crew and Rocky Balboa.

If I remember correctly today I actually joined Dom on Deck 10 next to the pool for Cloud Obervation and data upload to NASA’s Globe Obeserver app. You can find the link to download the app on Google Play Store or Apple here – if you want to participate and submit data for your location.

Register an account and the app will walk you through the process – you basically become NASA’s eye on the ground supplementing what the sattelite provides from above with what you literally see as the sattelite moves over – the app instructs you to take pictures (outside obviously) – up, down, left and right at a certain time that corresponds closely to when a sattelite is overhead.

I did not “Connect with my inner Penguin” to get creative and make a clay penguin.

Heleen hosted “Giants of the Depths” lecture introducing the guests to the various giant creatures that live in the REALLY REALLY deep parts of the ocean.

This also included the Giant Squid that live in these waters.

“The Colossal Squid (Mesonychoteuthis hamiltoni) is the largest cephalopod in the world, surpassing even the mighty Giant Squid (Architeuthis dux). It also boosts the largest eye in the animal kingdom. This massive squid can reach up to 46 ft. (14 m) but some believe it can grow even bigger! The Colossal Squid is known to live in the deep waters around Antarctica, but little is known about the true extent of its range and habitat. Despite its massive size, it has one predator, the equally impressive Sperm Whale (Physeter macrocephalus). it was first described in 1925 when parts of the animal were found in the stomach of a sperm whale. A live specimen was caught by a fishing vessel in 2007. Like most squid it has 8 arms and 2 tentacles, but it is the only species to have rotating hooks inside its suction cups, which it uses to grab on to prey.” – Source “Infographic Post by Peppermint Narhwal Creative“

Maru informed the group that there are two specimens in museums in Argentina – One being in the Natural History Museum in Buenos Aires. This immediately got added to my “Must see list”
I did eventually make the ‘pilgramage’ in March the following year…

“Calamar Gigante – Bernardino Rivadavia Museum of Natural Science, Buenos Aires”

Heleen closed out the lecture with a tribute to one of the foremost female marine biologists, oceanographer and National Geographic Explorer Dr Sylvia Earle.

After lunch the Weddell Seals were scheduled for a visit to the Bridge. This was very interesting and hi-tech. Great to see some of the screens I see when I look up from my balcony – in context.

No seasickness experienced so far, but man does that medication make my drowsy.

Closed out the day with the “Cocktail of the Day” in the Explorer Lounge.

A blue drink looking out over a blue Drake Passage, blue horison and blue skies…

Tomorrow would be another “Sea day”… so far, so good!