Falklands Islands – Temple & Iceberg Trails: A Journey Through Asperger's

Saunders Island (minus the Kings), Steeple Jason Island and yet another sunset

21 November 2022

Sunrise over Saunders Island was beautiful – the red coming over the midnight blue mountains – 4:20 am – Don’t ask!

Then the news – “Ladies and Gentlemen, this is Yibo from the bridge”.. Morning landings cancelled as conditions are not condusive to safe zodiac operations.

Weddell seals were only scheduled for 10:15, so I had all intention to go to Luciano’s 9:30 lecture dressed for the landing and head down to the zodiacs from there. At least now I didn’t have to shlep down with muckboots and lifejacket in tow.

Luciano presented a unique angle on Falklands history and the subsequent war under the title “The Falklands War told by a Chilean” – to be more specific – my emphasis – a (millenial!) Chilean.

Only Luciano can almost effortlessly and successfully work “Born and raised in Santiago..moved to Puerto Natales” and various gun-toting “Pirates of the Carribean” clips into a story about a war in the Falklands.

I attended the last part of Nahuel’s “Aboriginal people of Tierra del Fuego”. Unfortunately I missed the first part and most of the context. My take away from the lecture – somehow a single (almost unpronounceable) word originating in Tierra del Fuego have found its way into the world lexicon…

So, without further ado, straight from Tierra del Fuego, Patagonia – today’s word of the day is:

By the results in the now deserted craft room the impromptu “Origami workshop” was a hit!

What to do when you can’t go visit the penguins – make origami birds, of course.

By 12:00 the weather has improved sufficiently for Yibo and the team to execute Plan B! Afternoon landing at a different site, but still Saunders Island. So, group by group we ventured out for our final (and arguably the wettest) wet landing of the journey.

While waiting to board the zodiac the topic of discussion moved to a Quark Expeditions freak fatal zodiac accident at Elephant Island a few days ago (15 November 2022). Two of the eight zodiac occupants did not survive. There was this underlying energy – it almost felt as if the team were extra extra careful today.

Landing team (knee to thigh deep in the water) regrouping after a successful sendoff.

In case you were wondering – Yes, the waterlevel was higher than the top of my muckboots during the landing – luckily the waterproof pants go OVER the boots.

Can you tell the wind was gusting in my face….? Talk about blowing your hair back.

The only catch with Plan B – No King Penguins, nor Imperial Shags at this landing.

There was the choice of walking on the long sandy beach – watching the Gentoo and Magellanic penguins going about their business.

But, please tread carefully and do not disturb the lone moulting elephant seal… He looked like he was having a hard time enough as it is.

Alternatively you could walk inland to a Gentoo colony on a flat piece of land.

Falklands Gentoos – turning my idea of a Gentoo colony on its head.

This was weird to me, it just looked wrong after Antarctica. Last night Lancy said that if they encounter ice free flat ground closer to the sea it’s the property jackpot – in Antarctica they make do with whatever ice free surface they can find. Yes, in theory it makes sense, but again.. can’t hold space for two realities – to me it just looked all kinds of wrong!

But they seem to be quite chill about it – unless there are brown Skuas with apparent boundry issues, invading their personal space!

Various Gentoos and two unwelcome Brown Skuas

Enroute to the Gentoo colony you pass the Magellanic penguins in and around their burrows. Or just enjoying a convenient nearby freshwater stream.

The Magellanic riverfront neighbourhood.

Lastly, you could hike up the ridge (or take the local ‘Land Rover’ shuttle that also doubles as the cash only souvignier shop) to the Black Browed Albatros colony.

Several birds are precariously perched above a steep drop, hunkered down against the fierce wind. Quite a contrast to the West Point colony.

Saunders Island Black Browed Albatros Cliffside Colony

After taking the shuttle option (both ways!) I braved the waves for the final zodiac transfer of the voyage.

Followed by the final “boot wash” and listening to the now familiar computerised voice wishing everyone “Welcome” as Ryno scans in our electronic cards one last time.

Bootwash before you “sign back in” on MS Roald Amundsen.

Somehow I had gotten my days mixed up and in my mind the suitcases had to be out by 10pm tonight. I tried to start packing and after collecting everything on the bed just felt completely overwhelmed – how am I going to fit all of this back in this case? What would I need for tonight and tomorrow? I cant do this, I’m going to the Explorer Lounge, maybe a drink or coffee will spark some inspiration.

When I got to the lounge everyone was chilling, drinking, chatting and I’m wondering.. are you all packed? Am I the only one so disorganized? What’s wrong with you people?

Then while waiting to place my order someone said something about tomorrow being a sea day.. “What? No, tomorrow we fly back to Buenos Aires ” my head is screaming silently. Then light dawns… they’re absolutely right – we have another sea day before we reach Ushuaia – the cases need to be out tomorrow night!

No wonder everyone is chilling… but that still leaves me with a small problem tonight… Now I really need that drink!

[What do you know, I did the EXACT same thing on the February 2023 trip – also prepped to put my case out one night earlier than the rest *face palm* There’s no hope 😛 ]

Yibo had one final treat up his sleeve – making up for missed Kings, maybe?

Steeple Jason island – Black Browed Albatros central

We did a drive by/sail by of Steeple Jason Island – no landings permitted anyways – as this is the largest colony of black browed albatrosses in the world. 70% of the global population breed here. Again.. serious zoom envy struck… and yes – every little spot is an Albatros.

70% of Global Black Browed Albatrosses breed on this island.

After this we were once again treated to a magnificent sunset. Serenaded by Luciano’s flute as he was making final preprations for tonight’s concert with Molly.

Later we would joke that Luciano should hold future concerts here and call it “Sunset unplugged”…

I went back to my cabin to go and create some semblance of order before the concert at 21:15.

Only I got hyperfocussed on packing.. in the zone.. and when I looked up it was 23:00. I completely lost track of time.. did not set an alarm… and missed the concert. Bummer! All was back to normal by the time I got up to the lounge for something to drink before they close shop.

At least I now had a place to sleep tonight and didn’t have to worry about serious packing tomorrow.

I had no idea I was going to get called out for not being there….

Stanley – The Amazing Race

18 November 2022 – Late afternoon

I had a few things I wanted to see/buy/do in town and precious little time to do it.

Priority #1 – Postcards and Fridge Magnets

I went up the road past the red public phone box and the Globe Tavern. Honestly, I literally went into the first shop I encountered that sold gifts and souvenirs. There I purchased and mailed some postcards, fridge magnets and a brightly coloured Falklands Beanie with a little penguin mascot – the red matches the jacket – it was meant to be, ok?

Somewhere between the Gift Shop and the Visitor’s centre I bought a book about Falklands and South Georgia wildlife – the long term plan being to at some time visit South Georgia.

Priority #2 – Church

Then I set off to the Church and the whalebone structure. A quick walkthrough – admiring the stained glass windows.

Anglican Parish of Falkland Islands – Christ Church Cathedral

Inside the Cathedral and the church yard.

Priority #3 – The West Store

On recommendation from the expedition team I had a look around the department store and ran into a South African expat in the “Mrs Balls” isle. We had quite a giggle. There were countless familiar items in the store – #ProudlySouthAfrican seem to be well represented – in bottled form at least.

Life’s good with Mrs Balls, Nandos and a bottle of “Tall Horse”.

During dinner that evening I jokingly showed the pictures to one of the Future Cruise Consutants – who happens to be an South African expat – she burst into tears when she saw the Mrs Balls (South African condiment). Apparently she’s been craving it for months and her mother has been unable to ship some to Europe – her new home. Had she known it was on offer, she would have stocked up – but she walked by the shop – opportunity missed. She vowed to patronise the shop during the next Stanley stop on this assignment.

Priority #4 – Visitors Centre

Luckily the Visitors Centre is right next to the dock, so I could have a quick look around without having to factor in too much travel time to catch the tender. I had a quick look around at the handicrafts, books and souvenirs.

Some random Stanley photographs:

Then it was off to patiently wait in line to board the tender back to our floating home.

The only time we used the tender boats during our cruise…

The evening following our “Next Day Briefing – West Point Island” Luis gave us a quick photography refresher to enable us the make the most of the opportunity to photograph the Black Browed Albatros fest tomorrow – shutter speed settings are key to get that “frozen in mid air” shot… not like this one with Luis all blurry, but at least I got the ‘cheat sheet’ on the screen.

Photographer in motion…. Luis (or how NOT to take an action picture!)

Kings and Vagabonds – Volunteer Point Falklands

18 November 2022 – morning and early afternoon.

This morning, we woke up to a view of Stanley, the capital city of the Falklands.

I booked an optional day tour to Volunteer Point – a farm that is home to King Penguins, Gentoo Penguins, Magellanic Penguins and sheep. As it is quite a drive from Stanley, we were first to take the tender to port and the waiting (ubiquitos) Land Rovers.

Arriving at the dock and the welcoming committee – some Fur seals and a Turkey vulture

Biosecurity reminder – the first thing you see…

and then the road with the red phone box.. leading to, you know, a tavern – what else?

But first visiting ‘greener pastures’ – Land Rovers waiting in the little parking lot next to the Visitors Centre.

As we leave the town the road conditions get progressively worse the closer we get to our destination. Being from Africa it did not really bother me, but the Norwegians who were in the Land Rover with me complained bitterly.

It is a bumby ride – there’s a reason there is a helicopter transport option to this colony.

But first – the “Stone Rivers/Stone Runs” along the way had me in awe. Sadly, no time to stop and explore though, would have to content with pictures from the moving vehicle. Geology geek much?

Stone Runs between Stanley and Volunteer Point site.

And then on the horizon – reminiscent of the Moai of Easter Island – Sheep, King Penguins and then King Penguins AND sheep.

Lancy’s comment re Saunders’ Island – also populated by King Penguins and sheep – The penguins looked a little sleepy – they were probably counting sheep 😛

Long story short – We were “let loose” on the property, with some general rules. Shown where the bathrooms are and packed lunches were available at your assigned Land Rover. We had time to explore and had to return to the Land Rovers at a given time.

Packed Lunch (Sandwich, Snacks, Juice), Water and an “Infopack”

We roamed from sea to rolling hills – various penguins and birds everywhere. Did not see any sheep on the beach, though – just saying.

The invasion of the red jacketed penguins and yes, that beach could have been anywere on the South African “weskus”, they were once connected after all.

En-route to the beach I was subject to inspection by a trio of Kings – but I wasn’t interesting enough and they waddled on. The back one looking more than a little disappointed. ..

Apparently I was not the droid they were looking for!

Out of the surf the vagabond appeared… A Fur Seal male that has been terrorising the colony recently. The previous week he actually ventured on land and attacked the Magellanic penguins that live in their little burrows on the border between the beach and the farmland. Luckily this time he stayed in the surf.

They may be King Penguins, but I’m king of the beach.

Beach Boys… They get around.

Magellanic penguins are not quite as charismatic as their brushtailed cousins.

Magellanic penguins and their not quite so safe burrows.

Everywhere there were King penguin chicks in various stages of loosing their down or in some cases just laying down.

Brown fluff balls – not a hint of the royal colouring to come.

And some adults were nearing the end of this seasons’ catastrophic molt’ – growing a complete new set of feathers and shedding the old ones. A very energy intensive process overlapping with 2-3 weeks of fasting, as they loose their waterproofing until they are able to spread the special waterproofing wax onto their new feathers.

Catastrophic molt – Looks like a bomb exploded in a pillow factory.

Along the way back we stopped at a little windswept farmstead. There were some interesting signs posted and a “Honesty System Bakery Box” or those who felt peckish while the smokers got their fix.

Neither kids, nor pets made an appearance.

After our second free chiropractic session in the Land Rovers we were back at the Visitors Centre. Some decisions had to be made to maximize the very short window to explore Stanley town before the last tender returns to MS Roald Amundsen.

Linda went into “Amazing Race” mode – which is what happens when I have “free time” at a destination – There’s a mental checklist of things to see/do, some mental map of how to get there and then the games begin 😛