penguins – Temple & Iceberg Trails: A Journey Through Asperger's

Saunders Island (minus the Kings), Steeple Jason Island and yet another sunset

21 November 2022

Sunrise over Saunders Island was beautiful – the red coming over the midnight blue mountains – 4:20 am – Don’t ask!

Then the news – “Ladies and Gentlemen, this is Yibo from the bridge”.. Morning landings cancelled as conditions are not condusive to safe zodiac operations.

Weddell seals were only scheduled for 10:15, so I had all intention to go to Luciano’s 9:30 lecture dressed for the landing and head down to the zodiacs from there. At least now I didn’t have to shlep down with muckboots and lifejacket in tow.

Luciano presented a unique angle on Falklands history and the subsequent war under the title “The Falklands War told by a Chilean” – to be more specific – my emphasis – a (millenial!) Chilean.

Only Luciano can almost effortlessly and successfully work “Born and raised in Santiago..moved to Puerto Natales” and various gun-toting “Pirates of the Carribean” clips into a story about a war in the Falklands.

I attended the last part of Nahuel’s “Aboriginal people of Tierra del Fuego”. Unfortunately I missed the first part and most of the context. My take away from the lecture – somehow a single (almost unpronounceable) word originating in Tierra del Fuego have found its way into the world lexicon…

So, without further ado, straight from Tierra del Fuego, Patagonia – today’s word of the day is:

By the results in the now deserted craft room the impromptu “Origami workshop” was a hit!

What to do when you can’t go visit the penguins – make origami birds, of course.

By 12:00 the weather has improved sufficiently for Yibo and the team to execute Plan B! Afternoon landing at a different site, but still Saunders Island. So, group by group we ventured out for our final (and arguably the wettest) wet landing of the journey.

While waiting to board the zodiac the topic of discussion moved to a Quark Expeditions freak fatal zodiac accident at Elephant Island a few days ago (15 November 2022). Two of the eight zodiac occupants did not survive. There was this underlying energy – it almost felt as if the team were extra extra careful today.

Landing team (knee to thigh deep in the water) regrouping after a successful sendoff.

In case you were wondering – Yes, the waterlevel was higher than the top of my muckboots during the landing – luckily the waterproof pants go OVER the boots.

Can you tell the wind was gusting in my face….? Talk about blowing your hair back.

The only catch with Plan B – No King Penguins, nor Imperial Shags at this landing.

There was the choice of walking on the long sandy beach – watching the Gentoo and Magellanic penguins going about their business.

But, please tread carefully and do not disturb the lone moulting elephant seal… He looked like he was having a hard time enough as it is.

Alternatively you could walk inland to a Gentoo colony on a flat piece of land.

Falklands Gentoos – turning my idea of a Gentoo colony on its head.

This was weird to me, it just looked wrong after Antarctica. Last night Lancy said that if they encounter ice free flat ground closer to the sea it’s the property jackpot – in Antarctica they make do with whatever ice free surface they can find. Yes, in theory it makes sense, but again.. can’t hold space for two realities – to me it just looked all kinds of wrong!

But they seem to be quite chill about it – unless there are brown Skuas with apparent boundry issues, invading their personal space!

Various Gentoos and two unwelcome Brown Skuas

Enroute to the Gentoo colony you pass the Magellanic penguins in and around their burrows. Or just enjoying a convenient nearby freshwater stream.

The Magellanic riverfront neighbourhood.

Lastly, you could hike up the ridge (or take the local ‘Land Rover’ shuttle that also doubles as the cash only souvignier shop) to the Black Browed Albatros colony.

Several birds are precariously perched above a steep drop, hunkered down against the fierce wind. Quite a contrast to the West Point colony.

Saunders Island Black Browed Albatros Cliffside Colony

After taking the shuttle option (both ways!) I braved the waves for the final zodiac transfer of the voyage.

Followed by the final “boot wash” and listening to the now familiar computerised voice wishing everyone “Welcome” as Ryno scans in our electronic cards one last time.

Bootwash before you “sign back in” on MS Roald Amundsen.

Somehow I had gotten my days mixed up and in my mind the suitcases had to be out by 10pm tonight. I tried to start packing and after collecting everything on the bed just felt completely overwhelmed – how am I going to fit all of this back in this case? What would I need for tonight and tomorrow? I cant do this, I’m going to the Explorer Lounge, maybe a drink or coffee will spark some inspiration.

When I got to the lounge everyone was chilling, drinking, chatting and I’m wondering.. are you all packed? Am I the only one so disorganized? What’s wrong with you people?

Then while waiting to place my order someone said something about tomorrow being a sea day.. “What? No, tomorrow we fly back to Buenos Aires ” my head is screaming silently. Then light dawns… they’re absolutely right – we have another sea day before we reach Ushuaia – the cases need to be out tomorrow night!

No wonder everyone is chilling… but that still leaves me with a small problem tonight… Now I really need that drink!

[What do you know, I did the EXACT same thing on the February 2023 trip – also prepped to put my case out one night earlier than the rest *face palm* There’s no hope 😛 ]

Yibo had one final treat up his sleeve – making up for missed Kings, maybe?

Steeple Jason island – Black Browed Albatros central

We did a drive by/sail by of Steeple Jason Island – no landings permitted anyways – as this is the largest colony of black browed albatrosses in the world. 70% of the global population breed here. Again.. serious zoom envy struck… and yes – every little spot is an Albatros.

70% of Global Black Browed Albatrosses breed on this island.

After this we were once again treated to a magnificent sunset. Serenaded by Luciano’s flute as he was making final preprations for tonight’s concert with Molly.

Later we would joke that Luciano should hold future concerts here and call it “Sunset unplugged”…

I went back to my cabin to go and create some semblance of order before the concert at 21:15.

Only I got hyperfocussed on packing.. in the zone.. and when I looked up it was 23:00. I completely lost track of time.. did not set an alarm… and missed the concert. Bummer! All was back to normal by the time I got up to the lounge for something to drink before they close shop.

At least I now had a place to sleep tonight and didn’t have to worry about serious packing tomorrow.

I had no idea I was going to get called out for not being there….

Scientific Diving, Saunders Island Build-up and Spectacular Sunset

19 November 2022 – Late afternoon and evening

Heleen hosted an informative lecture on the “Fantastic Fins of the Falklands” – Whales and dolphins around the Falkland area. Unfortunately I did not take any pictures – but did manage to identify some Hourglass Dolphins swimming along the ship the next day. Again – no pictures as my camera was charging in the cabin and we were up in the Explorer Lounge. They were too far to be captured on the cellphone and after I fetched my camera – naturally, they were gone. But I was the one to spot them and that’s super cool!

Hourglass Dolphin (**Lagenorhynchus cruciger**)- picture from Wikipedea

Then it was time for Manu’s “Scientific Diving and Kelp Forests” presentation. He explained what being a scientific diver entails and the work he has been doing as part of a National Geographic team to campain for Peninsula Mitre to be declared a conservation zone.

The National Geographic Peninsula Mitre team…

They succeeded in their mission and the formalities were concluded on 6 December 2022, not long after our cruise. The story also made it into the South American edition of National Geographic.

“The print copies arrived!” Screenshot Manu’s Instagram account.

A particular picture in the Kelp forest with an octopus made such and impression on me that when on the way home, I later saw an octopus stuffed toy in Istanbul Airport, I immediately thought of that pic and Manu.

THE Octopus Pic (Manu’s Instagram) and the extremely rare “Istanbul Airport” Octopus species – clearly the “Top of the heap”!

Sadly the time arrived for the final landing briefing session “Saunders Island” by Lancy.

Everyone was very excited because this landing held the promise of possible King Penguin sightings – only a small percentage of the guests went to Volunteer Point – so this would be their only chance to see King Penguins on this journey.

For me personally, the ‘main attraction’ would be the Imperial Cormorants (Falkland’s Blue eyed Shags) seeing that their Antarctic cousins have eluded my lens so far.

Lancy also elaborated on a study at Falklands that have found that although the Rock Hopper penguins that arrive early and nest at the lower end of the cliffs have the advantage of stronger chicks (less distance to the sea, shorter commute, more regular food runs) the “Late Nesters” who have to make due with available space higher up end up with the higher chick survival rate – the reason? Their Imperial Cormorant neighbours high up act as an alarm system against predator bird attacks, giving them an advantage – to quote Lancy “The early bird catches the worm, the late bird catches the luck!”

It was bittersweet when Lancy closed out his “penguin-starring briefing” with his signature slide…

♥♥ Always be yourself, unless you can be a penguin… then be a penguin! Connect with your inner penguin… ♥♥

The sunset was spectacular – even though the wind almost blew us away.

Sunset from the “Sauna”…

Some MS Roald Amundsen – when the lights go on…

Good night – tomorrow I have a date with some “Blue eyed Shags” and the odd King Penguin.

Brown Station and Paradise Bay

14 November 2022

I used to collect my paper copy of the “current” next day’s schedule from Reception on my way to the 18:30 “Information for Tomorrow” briefing. It’s usually available around 18:00. Even though the issue with the app has been resolved, I preferred to have a hardcopy to make notes on during the briefing and personal notes on the day.

These “retroactive” blog posts are a combination of info from these printouts, photographs taken with my camera and iphone and facebook posts during the voyage. Sometimes Luis’ video.

My notes on the planned activities:
Brown Station – Continental Landing (#2).
Argentine station not currently manned [Later I would learn that when there are scientists at the station guest landings are not allowed – Manu was there during my February 2023 trip – Hi Manu!]
Expect Gentoos, Blue Eyed Shags/Imperial Shags/Antarctic Cormorants, Snow Petrel and Skua. [They forgot the ever present Snowy Sheathbills, or maybe they’re a given?]

Woke up this morning to this stunning view.

Game of the day: Crossword.

Brown station landing schedule – Weddell Seals from 10am. So spent the morning after breakfast looking out over Paradise Bay from the bow of the ship – Deck 7. But…

Then “Zoom envy” stepped in… it’s a thing and for the first time in this journey I was frustrated with my little Sony’s 30x Zoom.There is a colony of Blue Eyed Shags that nest next on the cliffs just left of Brown Station. They fly to and through ferrying nesting material the entire duration of our stay. I just cannot get a decent picture of nests or flying birds.

Getting a picture of that blue ring around the eye becomes an obsession and will stay with me long after my flight has touched down in Cape Town.

Blue Eyed Shag nesting site – the snow free cliff to the right of the zodiac.

Stages of zoom.. and yeah.. not happening

Confession – prior to this trip my knowlegde of birds can pretty much be summed up as follows:

Then Antarctica and Lancy (and in a way Fritz too) happened and now I notice birds. Not so that I would describe myself as a birder, but I notice them and even start to recognise some. Later in the trip I would even try to photograph some on the Drake Passage.

The actual landing process take longer than anticipated. The expedition team had to excavate an steep impromtu staircase from the docking area up to the base and support ropes have been set up to assist acending the stairs – together with team members stationed along the stairs as additional support.

This also means that going up/down the stairs is pretty much a ‘single file/one way’ affair. Severe bottle neck restricting movement between the landing site and the ship. Much circling of zodiacs.

Various options regarding pathways and viewpoints. I take the easy way out – pretty much straight to the Gentoos.

From there joining the queue waiting to return to the ship. Trying in vain to photograph the parade of Blue Eyed Shags ferrying nesting material to the cliff.

I do get some pictures of a Brown Skua and a pair of Snowy Sheathbills. No Snow Petrals tough.

Thank heaven for heated bathroom floors…

I cannot remember how it came that virtually every piece of kit needed drying, maybe all that standing in the snow waiting.

And the “Information for Tomorrow” lecture held even more surprises - after Brown Station we were scheduled to visit another Brown.. Brown Bluff – Continental landing #3 and extra special for me, as it is a site with incredible geology created by subglacial vulcano eruptions.

Another opportunity to see Adelie (!) and more Gentoo penguins… and if you look up – there’s a possiblity of sighting the nesting Snow Petrels… WOW!