travel – Temple & Iceberg Trails: A Journey Through Asperger's

Hallo and Goodbye Ushuaia (again!)

4 March 2024 – Buenos Aires – Ushuaia

OK, before we do anything else, lets address the elephant seal in the room… despite my best intentions, this trip will be another ‘backblog’… and possibly come in as drips and drabs.

Reasons for this are myriad – It’s easiest to blame Swan Hellenic’s new Wifi access policy. The Included “Silver Package” means that Wifi internet access is available, but is extremely limited – one device at a time and only a handful of sites.

You can upgrade and purchase better access, but only for the entire remainder of the voyage (pro-rata per day) at a rate that I could in no way justify. This also meant that the app/website for this blog was blocked.

True, I could have kept notes or a running daily draft on a MS Word document and selected my pictures – saved them in a directory per day – ready to upload once I’m home… but ‘couldda, wouldda shouldda’… I didn’t. I was too busy either taking pictures or participating/watching some guest activity or frankly – eating! Yes, I gained 3 kgs / 6.6 pounds during this 21 day journey – it is what it is.

As for pictures – some serious FOMO was in play. Every moment I was not outside taking pictures I had this nagging feeling that I’m missing opportunities. Despite not being out taking pictures during 100% of daylight hours I still took 16 406 pictures (including some very short videos) with my Nikon camera alone. This is after I have started, but have not made much progress with ‘clean-up’. I have no idea how many pictures on my phone, but the bulk was with the Nikon. Next step going through them once and deleting the obvious duds and “Just missed it – water only” moments.

So, as the T-Shirt says “Start Somewhere” – I actually have the T-Shirt. And as I can no longer claim to “Have a screw loose” (more on that MUCH later) today is probably as good as any.

The morning of 4 March I dutifully showed up for breakfast at around 5 am. A few early birds were already busy with their breakfast. Just as I sat down someone called out my name and commented something in the line of “Hopefully your trip can only get better”…

Chris! Chris and I had a brief discussion via a Swan Hellenic Facebook Group where we established that he and Chris(tine) will be joining this cruise- having done the reverse journey Cape Town to Ushuaia Nov 23 on sister ship SH Diana. He had quite evidently read last night’s blog post… LOL – Admittedly, I was very surprised.

I joined “Chris & Chris” for breakfast excitedly chatting about their previous journey and the run-up to today. I remember thinking that someone looking at us wouldn’t believe that we met mere minutes ago.

Following breakfast we were ushered onto the waiting bus where I recognised the other fellow guest that I had previous knowlegde of – Ash. Ash is friends and collegues with Matthew – the Cruise Norway agent that I booked my Swan Hellenic cruises through. Matthew gave me and Ash a heads up that we will be on the same cruise. Ash joined the cruise with his grandmother Helen – who soon became the beloved “Everybody’s Nan” (She’s getting that tattoo’ed after the cruise).

So the 36 of us – yes, that’s right… 36 pax set out on our adventure.

Before boarding the flight – at the boarding gate – I met Jason (of the argonauts).

On the bus between the Boarding Gate and the plane I met Pamela, who made a bold choice for her first foray into cruising – 21 days from the tip of South America to the tip of South Africa via Antarctica, South Georgia and Tristan da Cunha. Her funky red boots would become an icon of the cruise…

The Red Boots – Ushuaia balcony views – Photo provided by Pamela

At least I knew a few names (and footwear) by the time the plane touched down at Ushuaia.

The flight was uneventful – the views of the snowcapped peaks just before landing, breathtaking, just as I remember it. I did watch out for ‘turbulence’ as a YouTube influencer complained bitterly that this is known to be a VERY BUMBY flight – which I couldn’t really recall from my experiences… and again.. it wasn’t. I apparently miss all the ‘fun’ **eye-roll**

View from plane approaching Ushuaia and Airport Control Tower

We landed at the small cute airport and made sure that our checked luggage make it to the assigned area – ready for transport to SH Vega. Then it was out into the crisp air and Bus No 1 (of 1!)

Here my Antarctica cruise experience similarities ended… For those that ask me – you’ve been there, why would you want to go back… each cruise is different. Spoiler alert – With the exception of a single Brown Bluff Dejavu moment – nothing in this cruise overlapped with my previous trips -experience and itinary wise! Even the Ushuaia experience.

Our local guide took us to a lookout point close to the Ushuaia Aeroclub. From here we could see the harbour and the cruise dock from the “airport side” and take some pictures. I’ve never been here before!

Lookout point views towards the Cruise Port and the DC3-5 Tango 22 plane on the premises.

While walking to the lookout point I met Taylor and Shane – the couple that will conclude their journey with an exchange of wedding vows in South Africa. Taylor – from the pictures it was SOOOO worth it schepping the wedding dress all the way across the USA, South America, Antarctic Peninsula and the South Atlantic! Congratulations guys – the very best of wishes for your future….

Then it was a quick drive along the ‘Main road’ with a warning that MOST shops here close for a siesta between one and two! We’re due at the boat at around two pm… so super limited time for shopping.

The bus stopped at the usual place – close to “The sign” – and no I’m not putting ANOTHER picture of “The sign” in my blog… You can never have too many pictures of icebergs (or King Penguins apparently!), but that adage does not apply to “The sign”, sorry.

I was on a mission for an order of fridge magnets and possibly Havana Lemon Cookies (for a collegue). Local flight weight restrictions meant that I resolved to purchase the cookies in Ushuaia. Off – up the hill to my “Go-To” souvignier shop – trying to make the most of the short timeslot.

What do you know – the souvignier shop accross the road from it is OPEN! It has always been closed during the hours of previous visits. Having checked options in shop 1, I decided to explore options in the ‘new’ shop and fell in love with some magnets. They seemed perfect and after a quick check with the requester (thanks FlexiRoam E-sim) and w/app the decision and purchase was made. Mission accomplished!

I asked the staff about a supermarket to purchase the cookies – they referred me to a small ‘kiosk’ further up the road or a bigger supermarket some blocks away and further up the hill. No cookies at the kiosk and a fruitless search for the supermarket. Eventually I gave up, running out of time and made my way back to the bus and the waiting SH Vega – Sorry Sybren, I tried!

Ushuaia “main road” Hard Rock Cafe (Bob Chadwick!) and SH Vega patiently waiting for us.

Walking up the gangway to the Reception almost felt like going home! I later jokingly admonished Brandon for not keeping his promise of waiting for me at the end of the gangway. He did that with the July Svalbard trip, introducing himself to all the guests as they boarded – today he was otherwise occupied and would quickly come say hi while I was in line – waiting to receive my room keycard – huge hug and then disappear downstairs with things to do and people to see.

“Ms Linda, it IS you!, Putri said she saw your name on the list and hoped it would be you!” Jerome (Day Reception) and Jill (Purser) running the check-in at Reception recognised me from the previous trip. I would only see Putri (Night Reception) much later. I even had the same stateroom attendant – Melanie. She was a little taken aback when she came to introduce herself and I opened the door – LOL. Several staff members accross the vessel would recognise me as the trip got underway – even my drinks order – Coke Zero and coffee with Lactose Free Milk (not together!). I was taken aback as I kind of only expected Brandon to recognise me from Svalbard and then only because we have kept in contact sporadically and he was aware that I would be on the trip.

My anti-seasickness stickers already applied on the bus – forewarned – forearmed – I executed my other strategy of unpacking the bulk of my items as soon as I am in my stateroom and storing the suitcase under the bed. Later the afternoon I took a green apple from the fruit bowl in the Club Lounge and stored it in my fridge – just in case! Bring on the Drake Passage…

Stateroom 618 – “Home away from Home” for the next 21 days!

Enjoying the sunshine and some snacks and drinks at the pool deck – we were welcomed by Brandon and the expedition team. Gustav (Goodstuff) serenaded us as we embarked on our epic journey into the Beagle Channel on our way to the Drake Passage and eventually the Antarctic Peninsula…

We literally sailed off into the sunset with Gustav’s adapted rendition of “Leaving on the SH Vega” – apologies to John Denver… escorted by whale blows and black-browed albatross.

Sunset in the Beagle Channel, Whale (probably Minke) and Black-browed Albatross

“The power of three’s”

Buenos Aires – 4 March 2023 (Early)

Let’s just say the start of the vacation has been a bit of a whirlwind.

Flights were choc-a-block full, which means cramped spaces. The couple from the USA which shared my row on the way to Istanbul was very friendly and probably felt the same enthausiam for South-Africa, which I feel for the polar areas. It’s weird how the world works, I live in SA and have never visited the Kruger Park – having seen the big five accross other parks before I was in high school.

Boarding in Istanbul was a different story – the lady ‘gatekeeping’ the boarding area – pre-boarding.. was extremely rude. Some people were pulled out of the line and subject to extreme scrutiny – me with my ‘african’ passport and two chinese ladies also en-route to Antarctica. Third degree – much looking up of information on screens – I think she actually checked the internet if my cruise was ‘real’ and I have not dreamed up the documentation. She actually took photographs of ALL my documentation and wrote furiously in a notebook, as if to keep some form of proof that should Argentina decide to not allow me into the country – she (and Turkish Airlines) can say that they did their checks and could not find anything specific that would get me deported.

She looked severely unhappy when she eventually found nothing to not allow us on the plane. She shoved my papers in my hands and said – go.. you can go! We still don’t know what exactly that was all about – the chinese passengers were also allowed to continue their journey – much to her disgust.

Only standing in line at Immigration in Buenos Aires did I realize she did not return my printed out AirBnB confirmation.You need to provide proof of address for your first night in Argentina as part of immigration clearance. I had to look it up on the app – the very reason I print that kind of info for easy reference in these situations – which I find by default to be extremely stressful, even when I have everything on hand.

I informed the AirBnB host that I will only arrive between 1 and 2 am the morning of the 3rd of March and they confirmed that check-in at that time will not be an issue. When I arrived at the building someone from inside let me in. However, despite various attempts to connect with the hosts via the App and W/app number provided I was forced to contact AirBnB support. I was sitting on the steps in front of the apartment door from 1:55 until around 5am. At just over 4am AirBnB support contacted me and said they tried to contact the host and if they do not respond and check-in is not completed within 30 minutes, they will process a refund and cancell the booking – which unfortunately is exactly what happened.

It is 21 minutes after 9pm and I have yet to have had any feedback from the hosts as to what exactly went wrong this morning.

Luckily it is literally accross the road from the hotel that Swan Hellenic booked us in for tonight and I could check my luggage into storage and wait it out… or that was the plan untill the Swan Hellenic representative explained my predicament to the hotel reception and they informed me that my room is actually availalbe immediately and they will send up my luggage shortly. Awesome! I was super thankful. Unfortunately today this splendour is wasted on me.

Early morning – Hotel Alvear Palace – a birthday party winding down in the early morning hours

While attempting to charge my powerbank the charger cable snapped. There is a single USB outlet and it is placed in such a way that it is hard to access without contorting the charger. Luckily I ‘lost’ the use of a lightning charger on a previous journey and realised the relief I felt having a backup. I had to smile as just as I was packing I thought… do you really need TWO of these cables.. and apparently the answer is still a resounding YES.

After a warm shower I slept a while and then went out to grab something to eat from a nearby supermarket. I had a picnic in a park and watched the children (big and small) and their various pets – mostly dogs – play in the park about two blocks from the hotel.

The picnic had some repurcussions of the food poisoning variety… intense but short-lived. Slight nausea and severe fatigue persists.

Hopefully my stroke of bad luck has run it’s three-strike course and tomorrow is a new day.

The allowed checked luggage item is in front of the door -ready for collection.

Breakfast and final arrangements – collection of boarding passes and health declaration forms is from 4am tomorrow – departure to airport at 5am and check-in at airport scheduled for 5:45 for 7:45 departure to Ushuaia. Arrival at Ushuaia airport approximately 11:25.

Boarding of SH Vega will take place some time between 11:25 and departure at 18:00. At this time there will be a familiar face on board – Expedition Leader (and fellow South African) Brandon -Yay!!!

I have some shopping to do at Ushuaia – hopefully the schedule will allow for that – previous occasions have allowed some time in town prior to boarding – fingers crossed.

For now I’m going to see if I can get this uploaded and then get some more sleep before an early start tomorrow and another cramped flight – mercifully only approximately 4 hours in duration.

And then… The Drake!

Luggage reinforcements and going back east.

25/26 November 2022 – Buenos Aires – Istanbul – Cape Town

My final morning in Buenos Aires was spent hunting down a weekend bag to accomodate luggage overflow – seeing that Turkish Airlines allows for two checked items – max 23kgs each.

Although I’ve looked around at the various stores along the way, I have yet to see anything like this. Eventually via countless online searches I found a curio store that seems to sell these items – close to Obelisco.

Jenny also contacted me, having seen the Rosary – Could I bring her one from Buenos Aires. So there was some more shopping to be done. A request for some Alfajores was also raised via Boytjie’s Godmother.

I took the bus to Obelisco, well part way and got off too soon, but afraid I may overshoot my destination again. That bus is stressful, but it’s too far to walk all the way. I walked a few blocks and was very relieved when I saw the landmark.

The shop was literally close to the landmark and had a selection of weekend bags to choose from – phew! Also the fridge magnet of the Tango establishment close to my flat – bonus! A selection of alfajores was obtained in a grocery store close by… right.. now just the Rosary.. should be easy.. there are MANY churches around the town.

I started walking back – going into all the churches along the way. Some did not offer rosaries and others were not to my liking.

About six churches later I decided to try the Metropolitan Cathedral at Plaza De Mayo – maybe they will have something and they did – but they are strictly cash only.. so down to the closest ATM… Could not get hold of Jenny to confirm preference so she would just have to make do with red scented sandalwood.

Also added one for my collection – my second from this church as I purchased a purple beaded one on the steps during my short visit with Maties Travel in 2010.

Metropolitan Cathedral and Sandalwood Rosary on the marble steps.

Jenny returned my call just as I was leaving the Cathedral – happy with my selection. We literally chatted all the way from Plaza de Mayo, back to the flat. Then it was time for final packing and a quick clean-up before my lift to the airport arrived.

The airport was in chaos due to an ongoing strike – lines were snaking everywhere, but we did make it to our boarding gate on time – just barely – even with the ‘be at the airport three hours prior to departure’ window. While waiting in line I spotted the purple cat T-shirts I saw at Hard Rock Cafe Buenos Aires – there is a branch in the airport, just before security – Kiddies size.. just my luck.

The flight was uneventful. I did watch an interesting documentary/movie about whales – keeping in mind the pod of Fin and Sei whales we encountered in the Drake Passage. “The Loneliest Whale – The search for 52” by Joshua Zeman.

At Istanbul Airport this time I did manage to locate the IGA Lounge – which looked very festive.

IGA Lounge Istanbul Airport – ready for the xmas festivities.

From there it was on to back of beyond to board the flight to Cape Town – with a few seconds to spare to take a picture of the “Istanbul Airport Octopus”.. see “Scientific Diving” Post.

With the lights of Istanbul below… me and my little King Penguin was ready to go home!

Istanbul views, Coke Zero and a penguin.. what more can you want?

New adventures await with the dawn of the new day over the African Continent…

Sunrise … purple haze.. promise of a new day.

Thank you for sharing my journey.

Colonia del Sacramento – Ferry across the Rio de la Plata

24 November 2022 – Buenos Aires – Colonia del Sacramento – Buenos Aires

Early the morning I set out for my daytrip to Colonia del Sacramento courtesey of Buquebus. I booked a return ferry trip and an English walking tour of the old city.

Some scenes from my walk to the terminal..

Getting to the terminal, I walked straight through to the check-in area as I already had my ticket and did not need to check in any luggage – little daypack only. Up the escalators, throught the baggage X-Ray… passport stamp “out” of Argentina… all well.

Then at the next desk – passport stamp “into” Uruguay we hit a snag. A difficult one as english is not quite the language of preference… I present all documentation… but no.. apparently I need the equivalent of a “Boarding Pass”.. not just a ticket. After some to and fro… being ‘in between countries’ I have a security guard escort down back to the ticket line… to stand in line to obtain said boarding pass… So, you may save time obtaining a ticket beforehand, but you still need to stand in the same line… ticket, check-in luggage (if applicable), obtain boarding pass… then up the escalator…for the rest.

Me and my security entourage got bustled back up the escalator.. and I had to go through the X-Ray again… some confusion at the Argentina immigration – I’m already checked out there… but eventually I get back to the Uruguay immigration desk and satisfied with the slip of paper produced, I get stamped in… and showed through to the waiting area and a little coffee shop doing brisk business. I definately needed coffee after this.

At just after 8am we started boarding the ferry… down a walkway painted with happy flowers.. grabbed a seat and soon we left Buenos Aires behind.

At around 9:38 we watched the walkway at Colonia del Sacramento port extend to welcome us to Uruguay.. and somewhere down the passage there was a big ‘sign’… To me Uruguay was country visited number 37.

We waited around 15 minutes for the English guide to collect all the passengers and then we started our “walking tour”.. and man.. she was quite serious about the “walking” part of this tour.. there was loads of walking…. brisk walking…

We walked out of the port building.. and literally over a big parking lot.. through a little gate, past a visitors centre and past the old train station… with the train station to our right and the river beach to our left. A few hundred meters further we were at the historical old town.. quite easy to do if you decide to go on your own.

You literally turn right and up the steps at the end of this little group of colourful houses and you are at the old city gate… and just retrace your steps to return to the ferry.

Somewhere not too far from the gate there is a small tourist office with neat public bathrooms.

We had a quick orientation walk-around, much explaining I cannot remember details of and the we had some free time until the we had to return to the ferry in time for the formalities – exit Uruguay and I cannot remember if you enter Argentina here or in Buenos Aires.

There are some museums you can visit – some are combination tickets, some a ticket on it’s own. You can pay with USD or credit card and there are facilities to exchange for local money, but there is a minimum amount. There are also various restaurants around.

The only thing I remember from her talk and I don’t know why… is that the one street was built with ballast stones from ships that arrived at port… and the other was paved with “local stones”.. and I’m hoping I’ve got the two right…

I wondered around, taking pictures and then had lunch and a 1/2 Sangria at the cute restaurant with a view on the catheral – hoping to catch it open at some point and purchasing a rosarie for the collection.Yeah, no, that didn’t happen… wasn’t my day. The Sangria and the food was excellent though.

Empty sangria… still closed church door… Ces’t La Vie!

The “Old Town” is really really photogenic… and with some fridge magnets I made my way back to the riverfront and eventually the air conditioned port.

The return trip was uneventful and at around 19:00 I slowly made my way back from the Buenos Aires terminal to my flat.. taking pictures along the way…. including some very fancy designer ice cream shop….

And some other random pictures along the way…

Back to my street with it’s little Tango Bar … Tomorrow I will recognise it on a fridge magnet … which of course I had to buy!

Back to reality (and Buenos Aires)

22 November 2022

Woke up to a beautiful, quiet morning – safely at Ushuaia.

This morning after breakfast we were in that no man’s land between vacating the cabin and disembarkation. We sat in the Science Centre waiting for our group to be called to the busses. I remember chatting to Linda L and Derek. Goodbyes were said – not being sure if we would see each other once we’re on the move.

After boarding busses for a (very) short ride to the tourist bus stop just outside the port. Yeah, full circle – back to the infamous Ushuaia sign. We were informed that we have about 75 minutes to wander around in town before being transferred to the airport.

MS Roald Amundsen peeking out behind the Ushuaia sign, docked patiently waiting to welcome the next batch of passengers.

I took the opportunity to browse the shop where I purchased my magnet before the trip and take some pictures before returning to the bus. Some shopped more seriously or grabbed a coffee/delicacy at one of the coffee shops.

Random Ushuaia pics – the quote from the entrance of one of the shops.

Then it was back to the little airport – long check-in lines and even longer security checks. There was some knock-on delay – eventually around 90 minutes. We boarded at 13:09 – I posted this picture of the unusual artwork on the tail while standing in line.

Our pretty Jetsmart Plane taking us to Buenos Aires.

All the while myself (and Google Translate) was in discussion with my Airbnb host around estimated check-in times.

Some were getting worried about flights out of Buenos Aires – despite Hurtigruten strongly advising passengers to NOT book flights out of Buenos Aires on the (even the evening) of disembarkation.

The flight back was uneventful – same stunning Tierra del Fuego views as we departed.

“Fun del Mundo” – Jigsaw pieces and deep U shaped glacier valleys.

Following baggage claim it really felt to me as if this was the watershed moment where the Hurtigruten part of my trip ended. It was, literally, as from here I would find a Taxi to my Airbnb. I was joined by one or two familiar faces Taxi EZE stand – or was that the February trip?

Most of the other passengers who booked a package (including airport transfer and an overnight stay) were jostling to confirm which bus they were allocated to and making their way to said bus. Suddenly we weren’t part of a group anymore – they could have been any random tour group getting on their bus.

I was quite tired by the time I eventually checked into the studio apartment that would be my home for the next few days. Promptly deposited the baggage and went out exploring, looking for a conveniece store to purchase supplies – luckily I found one about three blocks up the same road.

The usual self-catering ‘staples’ in a strange town.

Having purchased some (not necessarily healthy) basics, I settled in for the night.

Some time tomorrow I have to find a “SUBE” Public Transport Card. The plan is return to Recoleta to purchase a rosary at the church (as I promised myself I would during the pre-trip tour). The National Arts Museum is not far from there.. two items checked off the “Amazing Race – Buenos Aires” checklist.

Day after tomorrow – Colonia de Sacremento daytrip – ticket secure in my documents folder.

Saunders Island (minus the Kings), Steeple Jason Island and yet another sunset

21 November 2022

Sunrise over Saunders Island was beautiful – the red coming over the midnight blue mountains – 4:20 am – Don’t ask!

Then the news – “Ladies and Gentlemen, this is Yibo from the bridge”.. Morning landings cancelled as conditions are not condusive to safe zodiac operations.

Weddell seals were only scheduled for 10:15, so I had all intention to go to Luciano’s 9:30 lecture dressed for the landing and head down to the zodiacs from there. At least now I didn’t have to shlep down with muckboots and lifejacket in tow.

Luciano presented a unique angle on Falklands history and the subsequent war under the title “The Falklands War told by a Chilean” – to be more specific – my emphasis – a (millenial!) Chilean.

Only Luciano can almost effortlessly and successfully work “Born and raised in Santiago..moved to Puerto Natales” and various gun-toting “Pirates of the Carribean” clips into a story about a war in the Falklands.

I attended the last part of Nahuel’s “Aboriginal people of Tierra del Fuego”. Unfortunately I missed the first part and most of the context. My take away from the lecture – somehow a single (almost unpronounceable) word originating in Tierra del Fuego have found its way into the world lexicon…

So, without further ado, straight from Tierra del Fuego, Patagonia – today’s word of the day is:

By the results in the now deserted craft room the impromptu “Origami workshop” was a hit!

What to do when you can’t go visit the penguins – make origami birds, of course.

By 12:00 the weather has improved sufficiently for Yibo and the team to execute Plan B! Afternoon landing at a different site, but still Saunders Island. So, group by group we ventured out for our final (and arguably the wettest) wet landing of the journey.

While waiting to board the zodiac the topic of discussion moved to a Quark Expeditions freak fatal zodiac accident at Elephant Island a few days ago (15 November 2022). Two of the eight zodiac occupants did not survive. There was this underlying energy – it almost felt as if the team were extra extra careful today.

Landing team (knee to thigh deep in the water) regrouping after a successful sendoff.

In case you were wondering – Yes, the waterlevel was higher than the top of my muckboots during the landing – luckily the waterproof pants go OVER the boots.

Can you tell the wind was gusting in my face….? Talk about blowing your hair back.

The only catch with Plan B – No King Penguins, nor Imperial Shags at this landing.

There was the choice of walking on the long sandy beach – watching the Gentoo and Magellanic penguins going about their business.

But, please tread carefully and do not disturb the lone moulting elephant seal… He looked like he was having a hard time enough as it is.

Alternatively you could walk inland to a Gentoo colony on a flat piece of land.

Falklands Gentoos – turning my idea of a Gentoo colony on its head.

This was weird to me, it just looked wrong after Antarctica. Last night Lancy said that if they encounter ice free flat ground closer to the sea it’s the property jackpot – in Antarctica they make do with whatever ice free surface they can find. Yes, in theory it makes sense, but again.. can’t hold space for two realities – to me it just looked all kinds of wrong!

But they seem to be quite chill about it – unless there are brown Skuas with apparent boundry issues, invading their personal space!

Various Gentoos and two unwelcome Brown Skuas

Enroute to the Gentoo colony you pass the Magellanic penguins in and around their burrows. Or just enjoying a convenient nearby freshwater stream.

The Magellanic riverfront neighbourhood.

Lastly, you could hike up the ridge (or take the local ‘Land Rover’ shuttle that also doubles as the cash only souvignier shop) to the Black Browed Albatros colony.

Several birds are precariously perched above a steep drop, hunkered down against the fierce wind. Quite a contrast to the West Point colony.

Saunders Island Black Browed Albatros Cliffside Colony

After taking the shuttle option (both ways!) I braved the waves for the final zodiac transfer of the voyage.

Followed by the final “boot wash” and listening to the now familiar computerised voice wishing everyone “Welcome” as Ryno scans in our electronic cards one last time.

Bootwash before you “sign back in” on MS Roald Amundsen.

Somehow I had gotten my days mixed up and in my mind the suitcases had to be out by 10pm tonight. I tried to start packing and after collecting everything on the bed just felt completely overwhelmed – how am I going to fit all of this back in this case? What would I need for tonight and tomorrow? I cant do this, I’m going to the Explorer Lounge, maybe a drink or coffee will spark some inspiration.

When I got to the lounge everyone was chilling, drinking, chatting and I’m wondering.. are you all packed? Am I the only one so disorganized? What’s wrong with you people?

Then while waiting to place my order someone said something about tomorrow being a sea day.. “What? No, tomorrow we fly back to Buenos Aires ” my head is screaming silently. Then light dawns… they’re absolutely right – we have another sea day before we reach Ushuaia – the cases need to be out tomorrow night!

No wonder everyone is chilling… but that still leaves me with a small problem tonight… Now I really need that drink!

[What do you know, I did the EXACT same thing on the February 2023 trip – also prepped to put my case out one night earlier than the rest *face palm* There’s no hope 😛 ]

Yibo had one final treat up his sleeve – making up for missed Kings, maybe?

Steeple Jason island – Black Browed Albatros central

We did a drive by/sail by of Steeple Jason Island – no landings permitted anyways – as this is the largest colony of black browed albatrosses in the world. 70% of the global population breed here. Again.. serious zoom envy struck… and yes – every little spot is an Albatros.

70% of Global Black Browed Albatrosses breed on this island.

After this we were once again treated to a magnificent sunset. Serenaded by Luciano’s flute as he was making final preprations for tonight’s concert with Molly.

Later we would joke that Luciano should hold future concerts here and call it “Sunset unplugged”…

I went back to my cabin to go and create some semblance of order before the concert at 21:15.

Only I got hyperfocussed on packing.. in the zone.. and when I looked up it was 23:00. I completely lost track of time.. did not set an alarm… and missed the concert. Bummer! All was back to normal by the time I got up to the lounge for something to drink before they close shop.

At least I now had a place to sleep tonight and didn’t have to worry about serious packing tomorrow.

I had no idea I was going to get called out for not being there….

Scientific Diving, Saunders Island Build-up and Spectacular Sunset

19 November 2022 – Late afternoon and evening

Heleen hosted an informative lecture on the “Fantastic Fins of the Falklands” – Whales and dolphins around the Falkland area. Unfortunately I did not take any pictures – but did manage to identify some Hourglass Dolphins swimming along the ship the next day. Again – no pictures as my camera was charging in the cabin and we were up in the Explorer Lounge. They were too far to be captured on the cellphone and after I fetched my camera – naturally, they were gone. But I was the one to spot them and that’s super cool!

Hourglass Dolphin (**Lagenorhynchus cruciger**)- picture from Wikipedea

Then it was time for Manu’s “Scientific Diving and Kelp Forests” presentation. He explained what being a scientific diver entails and the work he has been doing as part of a National Geographic team to campain for Peninsula Mitre to be declared a conservation zone.

The National Geographic Peninsula Mitre team…

They succeeded in their mission and the formalities were concluded on 6 December 2022, not long after our cruise. The story also made it into the South American edition of National Geographic.

“The print copies arrived!” Screenshot Manu’s Instagram account.

A particular picture in the Kelp forest with an octopus made such and impression on me that when on the way home, I later saw an octopus stuffed toy in Istanbul Airport, I immediately thought of that pic and Manu.

THE Octopus Pic (Manu’s Instagram) and the extremely rare “Istanbul Airport” Octopus species – clearly the “Top of the heap”!

Sadly the time arrived for the final landing briefing session “Saunders Island” by Lancy.

Everyone was very excited because this landing held the promise of possible King Penguin sightings – only a small percentage of the guests went to Volunteer Point – so this would be their only chance to see King Penguins on this journey.

For me personally, the ‘main attraction’ would be the Imperial Cormorants (Falkland’s Blue eyed Shags) seeing that their Antarctic cousins have eluded my lens so far.

Lancy also elaborated on a study at Falklands that have found that although the Rock Hopper penguins that arrive early and nest at the lower end of the cliffs have the advantage of stronger chicks (less distance to the sea, shorter commute, more regular food runs) the “Late Nesters” who have to make due with available space higher up end up with the higher chick survival rate – the reason? Their Imperial Cormorant neighbours high up act as an alarm system against predator bird attacks, giving them an advantage – to quote Lancy “The early bird catches the worm, the late bird catches the luck!”

It was bittersweet when Lancy closed out his “penguin-starring briefing” with his signature slide…

♥♥ Always be yourself, unless you can be a penguin… then be a penguin! Connect with your inner penguin… ♥♥

The sunset was spectacular – even though the wind almost blew us away.

Sunset from the “Sauna”…

Some MS Roald Amundsen – when the lights go on…

Good night – tomorrow I have a date with some “Blue eyed Shags” and the odd King Penguin.

“Even if you don’t like birds, you’ll fall in love with them tomorrow” – Luciano – West Point Island briefing

19 November 2022

Free from the rules of IAATO, West Point Island landing was for all intents and purposes a daytrip, with optional afternoon tea. Boat groups were ferried to the little wooden pier – a luxury dry landing.

Landing briefing in progress – do’s and don’ts for this particular excursion.

After Yibo’s landing briefing we could leave our life vests with the Expediton Team gear, grab some walking poles, if we wanted to and head off over the hill for the 2 km hike to the Black Browed Albatros Colony on the cliff.

Hiking to the Black Browed Albatros Colony at West Point

For those that did not want to do the hike the hosts also provided a ‘Land Rover Shuttle Service’ to and from the main house.

I chose to do the hike and at some point I was walking with Fritz and he was eagerly counting and re-counting the chicks along the way – there was a possiblity that this little brood exceeded the number of offspring usually associated with this breed. But alas, several re-counts confirmed that this was not the case- they were a ‘common’ little Upland Goose family.

Mom (Brown) and Dad (White) and their ‘standard’ Upland Goose six chicks

Just before we reached the cliff where the Albatros nests are I spotted a bird I recognized from Lancy’s lecture on birds of the Falklands – well he’s kinda hard to miss.. Longtailed Meadowlark.

Longtailed Meadowlark – conspicuous with that red breast.

The line waiting to go down to the colony – numbers controlled as to not stress the birds.

Then we descended down through the tussock grass down to where an absolute magnificent scene awaited us…

Even WITH these red jackets one could get lost here….

Black Browed Albatros so close you could probably touch one… intersperced with a sprinkling of red-eyed Southern Rockhoppers. Fly-overs so low one actually almost hit of the guests… almost…

In all honesty I stood there at the colony from 11:16 to 14:10 and took 1107 photos with my Sony camera alone.. and some with the phone.

It was both breathtaking and overwhelming – the highlight of the Falkland Islands.

Those feet vs these….

On the way back – some more birds…

Austral Thrush adult and juvenile (Thanks for the juvenile identification – Lancy!)

Although there was an invitation to have tea and biscuits with the hosts at the main house – apparently it is very very good – I decided to go back to the ship.

Stanley – The Amazing Race

18 November 2022 – Late afternoon

I had a few things I wanted to see/buy/do in town and precious little time to do it.

Priority #1 – Postcards and Fridge Magnets

I went up the road past the red public phone box and the Globe Tavern. Honestly, I literally went into the first shop I encountered that sold gifts and souvenirs. There I purchased and mailed some postcards, fridge magnets and a brightly coloured Falklands Beanie with a little penguin mascot – the red matches the jacket – it was meant to be, ok?

Somewhere between the Gift Shop and the Visitor’s centre I bought a book about Falklands and South Georgia wildlife – the long term plan being to at some time visit South Georgia.

Priority #2 – Church

Then I set off to the Church and the whalebone structure. A quick walkthrough – admiring the stained glass windows.

Anglican Parish of Falkland Islands – Christ Church Cathedral

Inside the Cathedral and the church yard.

Priority #3 – The West Store

On recommendation from the expedition team I had a look around the department store and ran into a South African expat in the “Mrs Balls” isle. We had quite a giggle. There were countless familiar items in the store – #ProudlySouthAfrican seem to be well represented – in bottled form at least.

Life’s good with Mrs Balls, Nandos and a bottle of “Tall Horse”.

During dinner that evening I jokingly showed the pictures to one of the Future Cruise Consutants – who happens to be an South African expat – she burst into tears when she saw the Mrs Balls (South African condiment). Apparently she’s been craving it for months and her mother has been unable to ship some to Europe – her new home. Had she known it was on offer, she would have stocked up – but she walked by the shop – opportunity missed. She vowed to patronise the shop during the next Stanley stop on this assignment.

Priority #4 – Visitors Centre

Luckily the Visitors Centre is right next to the dock, so I could have a quick look around without having to factor in too much travel time to catch the tender. I had a quick look around at the handicrafts, books and souvenirs.

Some random Stanley photographs:

Then it was off to patiently wait in line to board the tender back to our floating home.

The only time we used the tender boats during our cruise…

The evening following our “Next Day Briefing – West Point Island” Luis gave us a quick photography refresher to enable us the make the most of the opportunity to photograph the Black Browed Albatros fest tomorrow – shutter speed settings are key to get that “frozen in mid air” shot… not like this one with Luis all blurry, but at least I got the ‘cheat sheet’ on the screen.

Photographer in motion…. Luis (or how NOT to take an action picture!)

Kings and Vagabonds – Volunteer Point Falklands

18 November 2022 – morning and early afternoon.

This morning, we woke up to a view of Stanley, the capital city of the Falklands.

I booked an optional day tour to Volunteer Point – a farm that is home to King Penguins, Gentoo Penguins, Magellanic Penguins and sheep. As it is quite a drive from Stanley, we were first to take the tender to port and the waiting (ubiquitos) Land Rovers.

Arriving at the dock and the welcoming committee – some Fur seals and a Turkey vulture

Biosecurity reminder – the first thing you see…

and then the road with the red phone box.. leading to, you know, a tavern – what else?

But first visiting ‘greener pastures’ – Land Rovers waiting in the little parking lot next to the Visitors Centre.

As we leave the town the road conditions get progressively worse the closer we get to our destination. Being from Africa it did not really bother me, but the Norwegians who were in the Land Rover with me complained bitterly.

It is a bumby ride – there’s a reason there is a helicopter transport option to this colony.

But first – the “Stone Rivers/Stone Runs” along the way had me in awe. Sadly, no time to stop and explore though, would have to content with pictures from the moving vehicle. Geology geek much?

Stone Runs between Stanley and Volunteer Point site.

And then on the horizon – reminiscent of the Moai of Easter Island – Sheep, King Penguins and then King Penguins AND sheep.

Lancy’s comment re Saunders’ Island – also populated by King Penguins and sheep – The penguins looked a little sleepy – they were probably counting sheep 😛

Long story short – We were “let loose” on the property, with some general rules. Shown where the bathrooms are and packed lunches were available at your assigned Land Rover. We had time to explore and had to return to the Land Rovers at a given time.

Packed Lunch (Sandwich, Snacks, Juice), Water and an “Infopack”

We roamed from sea to rolling hills – various penguins and birds everywhere. Did not see any sheep on the beach, though – just saying.

The invasion of the red jacketed penguins and yes, that beach could have been anywere on the South African “weskus”, they were once connected after all.

En-route to the beach I was subject to inspection by a trio of Kings – but I wasn’t interesting enough and they waddled on. The back one looking more than a little disappointed. ..

Apparently I was not the droid they were looking for!

Out of the surf the vagabond appeared… A Fur Seal male that has been terrorising the colony recently. The previous week he actually ventured on land and attacked the Magellanic penguins that live in their little burrows on the border between the beach and the farmland. Luckily this time he stayed in the surf.

They may be King Penguins, but I’m king of the beach.

Beach Boys… They get around.

Magellanic penguins are not quite as charismatic as their brushtailed cousins.

Magellanic penguins and their not quite so safe burrows.

Everywhere there were King penguin chicks in various stages of loosing their down or in some cases just laying down.

Brown fluff balls – not a hint of the royal colouring to come.

And some adults were nearing the end of this seasons’ catastrophic molt’ – growing a complete new set of feathers and shedding the old ones. A very energy intensive process overlapping with 2-3 weeks of fasting, as they loose their waterproofing until they are able to spread the special waterproofing wax onto their new feathers.

Catastrophic molt – Looks like a bomb exploded in a pillow factory.

Along the way back we stopped at a little windswept farmstead. There were some interesting signs posted and a “Honesty System Bakery Box” or those who felt peckish while the smokers got their fix.

Neither kids, nor pets made an appearance.

After our second free chiropractic session in the Land Rovers we were back at the Visitors Centre. Some decisions had to be made to maximize the very short window to explore Stanley town before the last tender returns to MS Roald Amundsen.

Linda went into “Amazing Race” mode – which is what happens when I have “free time” at a destination – There’s a mental checklist of things to see/do, some mental map of how to get there and then the games begin 😛